Exclusive interview with Antony Lindsay, Managing Director of Fabergé; de Grisogono files for bankruptcy amid Dos Santos scandal

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Exclusive interview with Antony Lindsay, Managing Director of Fabergé

How do you describe Fabergé’s style in both jewellery and watches?
Most pre-1917 Fabergé pieces were very European in style. The emphasis was on craftsmanship and classical beauty of the piece and style was often narrative or figurative according to the tastes of the recipient. The world has changed a lot since then, but some key points remain: our use of colour, the playful elements in the way that we incorporate discovery and surprise and of course our exceptional craftsmanship that we are so famous for.

What comes first for Fabergé the stone or the design? 
It can be done either way but if the design is done first, the drawing may need to be adjusted when the suitable stone has been sourced. This is especially true for coloured gemstones that are often rarer than diamonds and the sizes and cuts are not standardised. 

What sets Fabergé’s jewelry apart other than the extraordinary stones and color combinations?
Fabergé’s storied past sets the brand aside from many others within the market marking a clear heritage and legacy for the brand. Today, Fabergé is known for:
• Colour through clever setting of precious gemstones and intricate enamelling, and the celebration of living life in colour. Fabergé pieces are renowned for their kaleidoscope of coloured gems emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
• Ingenuity has always been a quality valued at the forefront of the brand -enabling creativity, originality and innovation in both design and technique to bring about fantastic, treasured pieces that reflect personality and share a personal moment.
• Surprise, wit and humour provide key narratives within each piece, setting each one apart from the next and marking a special connection between the piece and its owner – or the perfect gift!
The extraordinary workmasters that have contributed to Fabergé embody a treasure house of vast and varied stylistic sources of inspiration that echo the cultural richness at the heart of Fabergé’s genius.
What is your assessment of the jewellery trend among young people? How close is Fabergé to the young generation?
We are noticing that the trend for using coloured gemstone is noticeable across all client groups but especially the younger clientele. They don’t feel obliged to buy traditional diamonds for milestone purchases but are much more focused on individuality and finding a truly unique gemstone which speaks to them.  I think it is this search for differentiation and individuality that drives a new type of jewellery clientele: these are clients who are interested in buying things which stand out and are less common (and also less known) and as such also serve as a talking point. 

Fabergé’s rubies and emeralds comes from GEMFIELDS sustainable mines, how does your clients transact with this? Do you apply the same strategy on diamonds? 
When Gemfields, the world’s largest responsibly sourced gemstone miner, helped revive the Fabergé legend in 2009 it provided Fabergé with tremendous access to the treasures from their ruby and emerald mines. 
Is Fabergé doing any ‘Special Orders’ for clienteles in the region? If yes tell us more about it. 
We are continually working on a range of bespoke pieces for our clients all over the world. Due to the sensitive nature of bespoke work, unfortunately we are not able to share this information but ‘watch this space’ for some exciting partnerships in 2020!

Tell us a bit about the Faberge watches you are bringing out. Do you find it difficult to catch the attention of customers who are used to other high-end brands?
We are delighted to announce that we will be participating in ‘Watches & Wonders’ (formerly known as SIHH) in 2020, so stay tuned for new exciting timepiece releases next year! We don’t find it a challenge to catch the attention of customers who may not be familiar with our timepieces, as the watches really do this themselves just by the way that they are designed so beautifully and always with the element of wit and surprise and ingenuity that we are known for.

How do you bring Fabergé’s heritage to the contemporary watches collections?
We embrace our heritage and the traditions and philosophies of Peter Carl Fabergé and we look to apply this but in a modern contemporary way.  We also strive to wonder, delight!

What is Fabergé’s biggest market in the region now? What potentials do you see now?
The Middle East as a market is one of our top three, which include the UK and the USA. There is a lot of potential for growth within this market and we are excited for what 2020 will bring!

 
 
 

Market News

 

de Grisogono files for bankruptcy amid Dos Santos scandal

de Grisogono is mainly owned by Angola's state diamond firm and Mrs. Dos Santos's husband Sindika Dokolo. Recently leaked documents show a loan to buy the jeweller is costing the Angolan government millions of dollars. Ms. Dos Santos denies allegations she enriched herself through corrupt deals when her father was Angola's president. José Eduardo dos Santos ruled Angola for 38 years until 2017. He controversially appointed his eldest daughter to head the state-owned oil firm Sonangol a year before he stood down. Prosecutors are now seeking to recover $1bn (£760m) which they claim the 46-year-old billionaire and her associates allegedly owe the state. They all deny any wrongdoing, saying the accusations are a politically motivated witch hunt.

 

Sotheby's Dubai showcases works by renowned artists from Europe, Asia & the Middle East

In the first exhibition of 2020, Sotheby’s Dubai galleries brings together twenty-one modern and contemporary artworks spanning genres and continents. From Pop Artist Robert Indiana’s instantly recognisable ‘Love’ sculpture and whimsical works on paper by Andy Warhol, to Ayman Baalbaki’s signature expressionist freedom fighter and street artist Banksy’s take on military helicopters – the exhibition creates dialogues between artists from across the world. The view is taking place at Level 1, Gate Village Building 3, Dubai International Financial Centre, UAE from 9 – 13 February, open to the public from 10am – 7pm daily. The works will then travel to London to be auctioned as part of our 20th Century Art / Middle East and Contemporary Curated sales. 

 
 

Company News

 

Content writer wins Montegrappa prize

A journalist-turned-content writer with a Dubai-based public relations firm won the Montegrappa Writing Prize at the Emirates Literature Festival. UK citizen of South African origin Stacey Siebritz inched closer to getting her first book published by winning the prize that carries a limited edition luxury pen worth Dh15,000 from Montegrappa which she can design by herself. The prize includes several individual sessions with UK literary agent Luigi Bonomi who has launched the careers of many bestselling authors and a two-night stay at a five star hotel in Dubai.

 

Montblanc re-opens its boutique at Mall of the Emirates

Montblanc has celebrated the re-opening of its boutique at Mall of the Emirates, revealing the Maison’s Neo retail concept at an exclusive event for VIP customers, media and friends of the Maison. Managed by Montblanc’s longstanding partner Rivoli Group, the boutique has been redesigned to offer an immersive retail experience with dedicated areas for watches, writing instruments, leather goods, male accessories and Montblanc’s growing range of technical devices. Montblanc’s Neo retail concept, designed by French designer and interiors architect Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, is currently being rolled out globally and articulates the Maison’s long-standing passion for craftsmanship in a pure and uncluttered contemporary environment that combines black, white and wood.

 

Bremont becomes Official Timekeeper of England Rugby

Bremont has recently announced a new 5-year partnership with England Rugby. In Bremont’s capacity as Official Timekeeper, the brand will deliver all of Twickenham stadium’s official time-related match day content, including branded match clocks around the stadium. In addition, Bremont is excited to introduce the new Bremont Rose, a special edition mechanical chronometer for both fans and players, which will be released in time for the Guinness Six Nations 2020. The Bremont Rose, based on the iconic ALT1-C, is the first watch to aptly state ‘England’ on the dial as opposed to ‘London’ at 6 o’clock. The brushed steel chronograph features two sub-dials subtly embossed with the symbolic England Rose, combined with blued steel hands and a beautifully contrasting red chronograph second hand, a nod to the St George’s Cross.

 

Cara Delevingne in DIOR OUI jewellery

English actress and model Cara Delevingne embodies the emblematic Oui collection with complicity and humor: jewelry by Victoire de Castellane are revealed in a mix of singular style, as only its muse can wear them.

 
 

Product Launch

 

Bell & Ross introduces 3 new Vintage models

Since it was founded, Bell & Ross has been passionate about military history and its functional and aesthetic archetypes. Modern-day codes also drive Bell & Ross to revisit historic pieces to create new models whose design and technology are in line with current trends. It is in this spirit that, this year, Bell & Ross has unveiled three singular watches that evoke its three realms of expression: Sea, air and land. Both classic and modern, BR V2-93 GMT Blue, BR V2-92 Military Green, BR V2-94 Aéronavale Bronze, all three are driven by a reliable Swiss mechanical movement with automatic winding and are equipped with a “NATO Stretch” strap with a practical closure system, created using parachute straps. The practical strap makes for a very sharp, on-trend look and is in line with the neo-vintage trend which is popular with its fans.

 

Montegrappa introduces the limited-edition Extra Otto Sapphirus

Thousands of years before the renaissance painters coveted its rare pigment, the ancient Egyptians believed objects made from lapis lazuli were fragments of the goddess Isis’ soul. Much more than wistful ambition was needed to creating the first Montegrappa carved from stone. Mastery of modern jewelcraft is required to apply lapis lazuli to the Extra Otto’s complex shape. The exotic material is diamond-cut into a wafer-thin shell, then strengthened with a carbon-fibre core before polishing: a time-intensive process developed for a perfect trade-off of durability and weight. As a member of the Extra family of writing instruments, this fountain pen-only edition is fitted with the world’s premier writing unit: an 18K rose gold nib paired with an ebonite feeder is serviced by the precision mechanics of patented Montegrappa piston-filling.

 
 

Exhibitions & Events

 

HKTDC to reschedule its shows

In line with the measures taken by the Hong Kong SAR Government against the spread of the novel coronavirus, and after consultation with representatives of the jewellery industry, the HKTDC will reschedule its HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show 2020 (originally scheduled for 2-6 March) and the HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show 2020 (originally scheduled for 4-8 March) to 18-21 May 2020. The twin shows will be concurrently held at the AsiaWorld-Expo.

 

Vicenzaoro and T.Gold, January 2020 editions

The turnout and the innovative, cultural proposal are growing in the two salons of the jewelry Agenda of IEG Italian Exhibition Group. Interconnections with the world market, strategic cultural contents, creativity, innovation, training, design, territory: 1,500 total exhibitors, over 35 thousand presences (never so high in the last 10 years) and over 40 events with the top management goldsmith institutions and the most recognized global brands. This is the snapshot of VOJ - Vicenzaoro January 2020 "The Jewelery Boutique Show®" and T.GOLD, an international event dedicated to goldsmith machinery and technologies for gold and jewels taken on the final day of the two events. Together with VOJ and T.GOLD the debut of VO Vintage, the new exclusive watch and jewelery marketplace of the time, welcomed by strong consensus from the traditional public and the community of enthusiasts and collectors.

 
 

Celebrity News

 

Uma Thurman wears Chopard Jewelry to the Hollywood for the Global Ocean Gala

Actress Uma Thurman glittered in Chopard jewelry at the Hollywood for the Global Ocean Gala, which was also sponsored by the Swiss Jewelry and Timepiece Maison. Uma selected to wear earrings from L’Heure du Diamant collection featuring 7.91 carats of diamonds with a ring from the Magical Setting collection featuring 6.4 carats of diamonds set in 18-carat white gold and rings from the Ice Cube collection all in 18-carat white gold.

 

Gemma Arterton wears Yoko London

Gemma Arterton looked beautiful at the pre-BAFTA dinner, wearing a striking mix of Freshwater and South Sea pearl strands from Yoko London's Classic collection. A perfect example of how pearl strands can look modern whilst remaining elegant.

 
 
 
 

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