Interview with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith; Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022; JGT Dubai marks debut as premier sourcing event

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Interview with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith

More than 150 years ago, George Favre-Jacot had the idea of a « Manufacture » which would allow high-quality watches to be made in one place. In 2017, Julien Tornare was appointed as the Zenith CEO to bring the brand back into the forefront of watchmaking.

We met Julien in Dubai recently and he explained to us the current position of the brand and his future plans and directions.   

It’s been two years since you celebrated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero caliber which was reflected in the intensive use of this caliber in the recent collections. How do you assess the feedback of Zenith lovers and collectors towards this iconic brand’s caliber revival?

El Primero has always had a huge impact and a major role in Zenith history. When I joined in 2017 we had long discussions with Jean-Claude Biver about El Primero having such a renowned and strong movement. I think we all agree it is a major strength and many brands would dream to have such an iconic movement. It’s quite a unique factor and it’s not that our branding is not strong enough as the movement. We need to build the brand further to be strong as a global one. What we are doing in the last few years is building the brand image to become much more appealing and much more attractive but staying as we are. So El Primero plays a significant role as it has always done. But it’s just that it has been cannibalized by the rest of the brands. Coming back in 2019 with the anniversary celebration of El Primero was the best way to kick off the Chronomaster.

In 2020 you took a strategical decision to promote the Zenith’s Icon Program. Do you intend to scale this program to yet another level or you are happy with the current performance?

I think it’s probably one of the best decisions and one of the most strategic initiatives and definitely one of the top three of my favorite ones that we worked on over the last few years. Zenith icon is basically a way to tell people that Zenith uses only its own movement in the watches. As the manufacturer we trust that we can restore any watch from day one, and thanks to this we are able to give many more lives to a watch that was created 50 or 60 years ago. So we talk to younger generation about sustainability, circular economy and we know that the watch we produce is going be there forever. This is our commitment and it really works so well giving a strong legitimacy to the brand. Yes, it’s been a fantastic communication tool for the brand to establish its identity. My main challenge with Zenith icon is the sourcing and I will tell you why. We primarily keep this Zenith icon watches that we restore in Le Locle in our headquarters, and some in our boutiques in Paris, Ginza-Tokyo and China. We are supposed to open in Dubai in a few weeks’ time and so also in Singapore. We have a huge customer segment in Dubai and Singapore so should have started earlier but I was too short on sourcing. My problem is that we have restored 18 pieces and we sold out 15, so today I have 3 Zenith icons available for our clients. It’s a nightmare in terms of sourcing and in the meantime when I came on board we started the Zenith icon. Today if you have one in good condition in our stores saying this is guaranteed by the brand, the market is following up. It means my task to source all these watches to be restored is getting tougher and tougher. This is my main challenge but now I’m asking my team to develop that. Zenith icon started with old Chronomaster and of course if you think about the DEFY 30642 that we did recently they are also doing well. Tomorrow it’s going to be the Pilot collection, so it’s a great way to show what the brand equity is all about.

How do you strike the balance between the historical Zenith heritage with the current high-tech Zenith approach?

Super simple and this was also one of my first statements. I always say that Zenith is basically built around three main points. One, you mentioned it very well, is heritage. History is very rich and very long and therefore, really is a strong one. Then, authenticity is important to me. Authenticity means 100% of our movement is made in-house. When you visit the manufactory you will see that it’s true, that we are not making up stories as many others do. Our stories are true and I really want to emphasize that. So we keep this heritage and authenticity, but then of course creativity is equally important. When I met those men, 80 years old more or less, during the anniversary of the El Primero, who made the El Primero the first thing, they told me “Julien it’s good to make revival of our creations. We were so super creative but now you should not only do revival, you should continue and make contemporary too”. That’s why I am absolutely sold on having historical pieces and very contemporary watches. We live in the 21st century, so if I don’t create now how can I create an icon of tomorrow. It’s really tradition today. Innovation today is going to be tradition tomorrow. So I think it’s great to do it, it keeps the brand alive because one fear the industry has is how to keep the younger generation interested in mechanical watches and not having them wearing either cellphone on their wrist or no watch at all. 

I guess every time we meet you, we need to highlight the 50 years warranty offer. Do you feel that the brand has gained much since this announcement?

It is a little plus that we offer for the anniversary for some special watches. It shows the trust we have in our old caliber, our old product, and the fact that we make them ourselves. You could ask me then why don’t you do the collection of 50 years. 50 years is a bit long because a mechanical watch still needs to be maintained at some point and it will have a huge cost on any brand. Now that you mentioned it we will have a new announcement on the global warranty approach soon.

Moving forward with the Zenith novelties of 2022, can you tell us more about the new DEFY Skyline inspiration, design, new technology and material?

The new DEFY Skyline is basically the evolution of the DEFY Classic that we have with the blue dial and three hands and we wanted to do a few things with it. First of all, we love the development of the case that we had last year on the DEFY Extreme and this is giving so much character and identity and step by step you will see this as a signature of the DEFY collection. We are known for very clean dials, sometimes gradient but super clean dials and beautiful colors. I want to create a pattern so what kind of pattern can we do that’s different from the other ones. Of course we talked about our local star which is a very important strong symbol and we looked at the different stars that we had in years. Looking at the El Primero we see this beautiful star, stylish star that we had in early 70s and we worked on that to create this pattern that you see on the dial. We used the old logo to do that and we loved the result. Last but not the least, El Primero is such an important movement, how do we basically keep the El Primero magic into three hands. We thought let’s covert the chronograph and chrono movement into a three hand movement. If you simply do that then, looking at the watch people may think that it’s an elite movement, so I wanted to have a little hint about the El Primero high frequency power speed. That is why we created the small second at nine which turns at one tenth of the second so people who know about watchmaking realize that this is the high frequency we get from the El Primero. So you get the design, the new dial, and the El Primero three hands which is quite unique and you can feel this little second. And of course we continue to integrate more interchangeable strap system, doubtlessly, the easiest to use in the market and the safest. This is something people love and that is why we launched that watch this year.

The DEFY Midnight was launched in 2020 as the first Zenith DEFY collection tailored exclusively for women. This year you extended the ladies offering with the launch of DEFY Midnight Sunset & DEFY Midnight Borealis. What has been the feedback on this technical and sporty watch among your lady clientele?

That’s a very good point. DEFY initially was quite a big, bulky, sporty watch and we wanted to have, I would say, a more feminine touch. That is why we launched the DEFY Midnight in 2020 here in Dubai. The success has been steady, I would say, with the big kick off last year’s summer we started to sell many more of DEFY Midnight with the starry sky which is a nice expression of the sky. Now of course we want to bring two new expressions of what the sky can be like because we have the blue, and grey which I tend to say when we have a little bit of pollution. We bring two beautiful sunset dials here in Dubai so you know exactly how the sky can look like. The other one is Borealis and this is the one which I can show you exactly where I got the inspiration from.

Will you extend the Chronomaster sport collection during 2022? Do we expect more product announcements during the rest of the year?

Our Chronomaster is a big come back in 2021. As you know, we started the year with some novelties in the DEFY line and of course Watches & Wonders is coming in a few weeks and we will have some animation. But the Chronomaster comeback is so recent that you don’t expect many new things. If you think about Chronomaster Sport original I’m happy to say we had so much success that now I need to deliver more. My development team already made a beautiful edition of the Chronomaster Sport, for example with colors, with a different case, different kind of dials – very cool ones.  But I told them to keep them because we don’t need to do now as it’s too soon. What you will see in Chronomaster is some precious metal. I want to have precious metal animation and this is what you will see in the new Chronomaster line as well. If you see Chronomaster there is one specific, that we are very well known for, that is not there yet in the new generation. You know we are known for an opening in the dial. How do we reinterpret this opening to show the magic of El Primero, this is something we have been working on and you will see this nice surprise in a few weeks from now? So we have good animation on the Chronomaster line, maybe one new thing on DEFY. 

Why Zenith never emphasizes in its communication the fact that it is the only watch brand that is allowed to use the word Pilot for their watches?

We’ve been communicating it all the while as well as the fact that we have this historical heritage. But the Pilot has not changed much but for one small animation. First we launched DEFY and DEFY gave me time as a main pillar to rework on Chronomaster. Chronomaster had a big comeback last year, now if you want another strategic product line, the big engine of the company, then you have two more tactical product lines, namely, the Pilot that you mentioned and Elite. But I don’t want Pilot to be vintage like the automobile. We need to have Pilot that always gives an inspiration from the past. We need to come back with Pilot but with a more contemporary approach because then you have contemporary watches, you have the revival which is reediting watches from the past, and then you have the Zenith icons where we buy back authentic pieces from the past and restore them. We started with Chronomaster, now with DEFY and of course the Pilot will be the same. You can expect to have a new Pilot probably by the end of the year or maybe early 2023. Much more contemporary than the classic.

Congratulations on the new look of the Zenith Boutique at Dubai Mall? How important is this Boutique among the Zenith retail network? What about your expansion plans in this region?

Dubai is getting more and more prominent, it’s been the nerve hub of the Middle 
East for a long time, and I would say one of the few hubs in the world in terms of luxury business definitely. When you visit the city and its malls like Dubai Mall or Mall of the Emirates, you can feel that you have the latest store concepts, and the latest products. You have such a big luxury industry that you need to be here and you need to be strong here, and that is basically why I did choose to make this boutique as the number one in the world. And believe me, we are performing very well in other boutiques but here it’s growing faster and faster. A month ago in January, we did a record ever in terms of number of pieces and value and this month we are close to be in that track. The biggest move we are going to make this year, and it’s important for us to go step by step, involves taking over Dubai boutique and making it successful. That is the first milestone I want to have. Of course, we are expanding in different countries and one of the big moves for this year is opening a boutique in Kingdom Mall in Riyadh which is going to happen in spring. That’s a big move because we have seen in our after sale service  as well as CRM database that we have a lot of clients in Saudi Arabia and we are not officially present there. So now it’s going to be a big move and that’s so important even if we are growing in Kuwait, Qatar and in many places in a region like Oman. It’s very clear that Dubai and Saudi and the two main growth engines.  

Do you support the current approach towards genderless watches?

Simple. You know Zenith is about the future of Swiss watchmaking which means we cannot be turned towards the past with a product that you can only see on a wrist. It’s clear that we are a contemporary brand. The new stores and the website are becoming very contemporary, always respecting the past but living up to this day. If we have to live up to this world and build the future of Swiss watchmaking it’s not only with the product within the store but has to be with the feel of the brand. That’s why we been thinking about men and women categorization. I always give this example that when I was a kid, I remember my father who has always been respectful towards women. I remember so well having a small car when men had big sporty ones, now it’s totally nonsense. I used to drive a mini cooper when I was in Hong Kong. You would never go to a car showroom and ask for a women’s section or a men’s section, and I always wonder why one will do that for watches, it’s very much from the past. I want mine to be the first brand to totally delete gender category on the website. You can go for different sizes and styles but not specify for men and women. I don’t want to be the brand that is deciding the watches for you. It’s not complicated it’s just part of being a model company.  

Sustainability and responsible sourcing and Blockchain are now a common practices in our industry. How is Zenith applying these steps?

Talking about sustainability and social responsibility, this is also something we started to kick-off basically four years ago. When I came in I asked we should do internally to move on the right track if we want to be a 21st century.  It’s not only the product, the store, or being unisex that can achieve this. We started internally to take a lot of measures that we did not publicize much and it ranges from going paper-free to electric company cars, and many small initiatives in between. Now I’m working on using solar panel on the roof of the factory, and soon everywhere it’s going to be solar. We expect to sell probably 40 to 50% of the electricity we generate within the next two years. A lot more initiatives are on the anvil. And how do we integrate it into our actions? The first clear example is the Extreme E-race collaboration. When we terminated our collaboration with Land Rover I received couple of proposals from another car company. I didn’t want to go for a regular car-watch deal, I wanted to do something that will dovetail with the values that we uphold. And that’s why we partnered with Extreme E which is all about sustainability.  Shifting from fossil fuels to preserve the planet and promoting gender equality are both important social values for us. 

Of course, coming back to your question about Blockchain, we are working on how we can benefit and contribute to the community and what can do to link the new technology to our business model. This is a very important topic. Thank you for the questions because we could not claim to be a 21st century company without considering those.

 
 
 

Market News

 

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year. For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva - since last year’s event was entirely digital - the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

 

JGT Dubai marks debut as premier sourcing event

Jewellery, Gem & Technology Dubai   (JGT Dubai) has hit its stride as one of the industry’s top B2B sourcing destinations following its three-day run at the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), show organisers Informa Markets Jewellery and Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) announced today. The inaugural edition was held from 22 to 24 February. Fuelled by the excitement of in-person product sourcing, JGT Dubai drew 4,244 visitors who made 6,001 visits throughout the show period. International buyers had a significant presence at the fair, accounting for 46.2% of unique attendees from close to 100 countries and regions. Among them were 200+ hosted wholesalers, retailers and brands from Eastern Europe, the Middle East, North Africa, South America and South Asia.

 

Sotheby's Dubai Opens Exhibition of Star Lots from Worldwide Auctions in DIFC

Sotheby’s Dubai has opened its doors during the city’s Art Week – one of the biggest moments in the UAE’s cultural calendar – with an exhibition that showcases the spectrum of Sotheby’s international offerings. Visitors to the DIFC will be able to view glittering jewels, coveted cutting-edge watches, rare historic objects from the Islamic world and paintings by artists from the Middle East and beyond, all under one roof. The pieces will then travel to London, New York and Geneva to be auctioned. The showcase is open from 7 – 13 March at Level B2, Gate Village Building 3, Dubai International Financial District. Full list of public opening hours below.

 
 

Company News

 

Chopard main partner of the Maagaan Tour

Chopard, along with partners Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Khimji Ramdas, have joined Supercars Tribe for their Maagaan tour making the connection between Oman and the United Arab Emirates. The tour started from Muscat on February 19 with an opening ceremony at Al Bustan Palace Ritz Carlton, and ended in Dubai, on February 24, during a closing ceremony at the Meydan hotel. The partnership between Chopard and Supercars Tribe has been renewed again after successful partnerships in 2016 for the “Scandiera” European tour; in 2017 for the “Delmonya” tour; in 2018 for the “Zayedna” tour as well as the “Janoob KSA” tour in 2021.  Firmly focused on performance and the competitive sporting spirit, the Mille Miglia Middle East Edition is equipped with a high-precision chronograph movement, ‘Chronometer’-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). 

 

Bell & Ross named as official timekeeper of GRID Legends

Sharing with Alpine F1 TEAM the same passion for precision mechanics, speed and design and being not a stranger in the motorsport industry, Bell & Ross has extended its relationship with the automotive world by becoming the Official Timekeeper of GRID Legends, the high-thrills racing game available on PlayStation, Xbox and PC. As Official Timekeeper of GRID Legends, Bell & Ross will track players’ lap and split times with precision. Players will also be able to experiment driving with a personalise vehicle with a Bell & Ross in-game livery, designed exclusively for GRID Legends. Eagle-eyed racers will also see the iconic Bell & Ross BR03-92 BLACK MATTE on the wrist of Valentin Manzi in Driven to Glory, the in-game story mode recorded using real actors and virtual production technology.

 

Dior announces First Middle East Brand Ambassador

Saudi actress Aseel Omran is Dior’s new ambassador in the Middle East, bringing her magnetic aura to women’s ready-to-wear and fine jewelry collections.

 

Maximilian Busser named as a Canon "Trailblazer" for 2022

Canon Middle East (CME), a provider of imaging technologies and services has launched the 2022 edition of its Trailblazers series, where they celebrate change makers who have challenged stereotypes and emerged as voices of their generation. Three visionary individuals share their empowering stories of perseverance, determination and how they re-imagined their own futures, to emerge as leaders in their respective fields. Emirati equestrian Fatima Al Harthi, Emirati commercial interior designer Laila Al Yousuf, and Dubai-based Swiss watchmaker Maximilian Büsser, are the new Canon “Trailblazers”. Swiss watch maker Maximilian Büsser is an international icon of luxury watchmaking, who has taken the watch industry by storm. His watch brand MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) is heralded as one of the most iconic independent watch brands of the 21st century.

 

Longines as official partner and timekeeper of SAUDI CUP

The eyes of the equestrian community focused on the 2022 SAUDI CUP that took place from February 25th to 26th at the King Abdulaziz Racetrack, in Riyadh (KSA). As the Platinum Partner, Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of the event, Longines continued to forge close ties with elite jockeys and horses vying for success at what is known as one of the world’s richest horse races, further extending its support to all levels of horseracing with its timekeeping expertise. To acknowledge excellence and elegance in this revered discipline, Longines rewarded the winners with refined timepieces presented by Patrick Aoun, Longines Regional Brand Manager for the Middle East and South East Asia.

 

Rebellion Timepieces opens its doors in Abu Dhabi

Rebellion Timepieces has announced the opening of its first boutique in Abu Dhabi located in the heart of the Etihad Towers. Building on the success of its first participation in Dubai Watch Week 2021 and as the official timekeeper of the Historic Dubai Grand Prix Revival, Rebellion Timepieces is opening its first boutique in Abu Dhabi. By anchoring itself in this city with its exceptional modern architecture like its watches, Rebellion Timepieces confirms its desire to establish itself in this dynamic region resolutely turned towards the future. Located in the luxurious Etihad Towers shopping mall, the boutique presents the brand's collections and latest creations in a sophisticated layout adorned with aesthetic details that recall Rebellion's passion for motor racing. 

 
 

Product Launch

 

Dior unveils a new La D de Dior Satine Middle East special edition

“A ribbon that tells time” as Artistic Director of Dior Joaillerie Victoire de Castellane puts it, La D de Dior Satine is now available in a version especially created for the Middle East. Adorned with a supple silvered Milanese mesh wristband, this exceptional timepiece is set with a diamond-set yellow gold bezel and crown. Its dial is dressed in aragonite, with its delicate pink hue, “the sweetest of colors” according to Christian Dior. An ode to the excellence of watchmaking traditions and to Dior's boundless creativity.

 

The new Mon Jeu by Vhernier

The new Mon Jeu chain is a classic revisited which revolutionizes the traditional concept of the chain. Thanks to its pure design, thanks to the audacity of its combinations and the luxury of its minimalism, this piece illustrates Vhernier’s non-conventional vision of contemporary jewellery once again. The bracelet has 12 modules or links and can be composed depending on personal preference, choosing between different materials or Vhernier’s signature techniques among which the brand’s classic rose gold, white gold, plain titanium, titanium links with full pavé diamond or Vhernier’s Stellato pavé. Its pure and essential design and its different possible material combinations make the Mon Jeu a jewel that’s emblematic of creative freedom and non-conformism, a piece that’s beyond gender and beyond conventions.

 
 

Celebrity News

 

Selena Gomez shines in BVLGARI at the 2022 SAG Awards

Actress and singer Selena Gomez, nominated for best ensemble in a comedy series for her show Only Murders in the Building, wears BVLGARI’s Serpenti necklace paired with High Jewelry diamond earrings and emerald ring to the 2022 SAG Award Show in Santa Monica, CA.

 

Ruari O'Connor wears Girard-Perregaux to SAG Awards

Actor Ruari O'Connor, nominated alongside his "The Morning Show" cast for Ensemble in a Drama Series, wears the Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge in steel on the occasion of the 2022 Screen Actors Guild Awards.

 
 
 
 

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