Frederic Watrelot, Senior Director, Senior Specialist – Watches at Sotheby’s Dubai emphasis the importance of collecting timepieces in the Middle East and the treasures to be discovered

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Frederic Watrelot, Senior Director, Senior Specialist – Watches at Sotheby’s Dubai emphasis the importance of collecting timepieces in the Middle East and the treasures to be discovered

Q: What makes the auction market and especially in the watches sector interesting in this region?

Collectors in the region are passionate about high-end and rare watches and don’t hesitate to wear them on a daily basis. 
Because of the various nationalities present in the region, the market embraces the full spectrum of tastes, from vintage to contemporary watches.
There is a long tradition of collecting timepieces in the Middle East and there are a lot of treasures left to be discovered.
 
Q: Do you feel that the Middle East consumer is well acquainted with the culture of the auction business in general?

Important collectors have been taking part in our auctions around the world for decades and they are very familiar with the auction world. Sotheby’s has also run many initiatives in the region to explain how the bidding process and the advantage of buying at auction (mock-up auctions, lectures etc.)
The auction business model has also evolved dramatically in recent years, with online bidding and online sales playing a crucial role. For the savvy collectors and the younger generation, bidding and buying online is very natural. Beside, we also offer private sales.
 
Q: In the last couple of years, we’ve seen an increase in the number of watch auctions in this region, while the luxury market is slowing down. How do you describe this trend and where is the benefit of the consumer here?

Auctions are very often the only place where you can acquire rare, unique and high-quality timepieces at a fair price and benefit from the expertise of a specialist.
It is no so much “the latest” products that are attractive but the rare ones. Anyone can get the latest model in a retail store (albeit not sport Rolex/Patek/AP models) but how cool is it to get a watch from your birthyear or a handbag from an older collection. I think the region is slowly shifting from a trend follower to trend setters.
For the few very sought-after models mentioned above, auctions are a great alternative to find them when ADs ask for years of patience.
 
Q: Talking about our region and mainly the GCC market, what opportunities do you see here?

As mentioned above, there are treasures that are still to be found in families vaults, often brand-new-still-in-the-box (or otherwise called New Old Stock  or “NOS”) pieces that have become extremely sought- after over the years.
Palace and company gifts are a regional tradition in the M-East and many countries such as the UAE, Oman or Saudi Arabia hold hundreds if not thousands of rare watches which National Emblems, Royal Crest and other company logos. These pieces have become highly collectible.
 
Q: With the increase trend in the e-commerce /Digital platforms evolution, do you feel that this new IT trend/platform would affect your auction business?

Sotheby’s has been at the forefront of the digital revolution. We constantly innovate to offer collectors new ways to buy and sell watches. For example, we introduced a new format of Weekly sale in April and now have four weekly sales a week.
In parallel to online sales, we maintain seasonal highly curated live auctions in HK, NY, London and Geneva, focusing on exceptional watches. The next Important Watches” auction is scheduled in Geneva on November 11th.
 
Q: Can you list some of the high value pieces sold via your operation in the UAE?
 
* Last three Dubai Auctions (2018/2019): 
 
Audemars Piguet
- Royal Oak skeletonized perpetual calendar in stainless steel - World record at the time) 
- Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT in titanium 
- Royal Oak Off Shore Barichello II in platinum 
 
Patek Philippe:
- “Ibn Saud” : Ref. 2481 from 1957, a pink gold and ruby-set wristwatch with enamel dial and rose gold with Gay Freres bracelet and clasp. Made to honor Abdul Aziz “Ibn Said”, the Kind of Saudi Arabia 
- Grande Complication diamond-set platinum perpetual calendar chronograph ref.5271P 
- Celestial platinum ref.6102P 
- Nautilus 18k RG chronograph with bracelet ref.5980/1R 
 
Rolex:
- 1968 Daytona Paul Newman ref.6241 
- 1978 GMT Master ref.1675 with Mohd bin Rashid Al Maktoum dial 
- 1988 Explorer II ref.16550 with Hafez Al-Assad dial 
- 1984 Submariner “COMEX” ref.16800 

MB&F:
- HM6RT limited edition tourbillon in rose gold 
 
Kari Voutilainen:
- 2-Eight 18k RG 
- Twenty-8 18k RG 
 
Richard Mille:
- Felipe Massa RM011 AO RG-TZP-Z Yellow 
- Felipe Massa RM004 AN CA RHS Red 
- Tourbillon RM02 18k WG 
 
Haute Joaillerie”
- Vacheron Constantin 18k WG bracelet-watch “Lady Kalla” set with 30cts of emerald-cut diamonds 
- Piaget Baguette-set tourbillon Emperador 
- Audemars Piguet platinum bracelet-watch “No.1”, set with 47cts of baguette-cut diamonds 
- Chopard tourbillon set with 18cts of baguette-cut diamonds 

 
 
 

Market News

 

IMF sees 1.3 GDP growth for UAE in 2021

The UAE economy will have a 1.3 per cent real GDP growth in 2021 following a 6.6 per cent contraction this year, the IMF says in its latest World Economic Outlook Report. The IMF’s forecast is far more conservative than many other recent ones. Earlier last week, the Institute of International Finance (IIF), a global association of banks and financial institutions, forecast a 3.1 per cent GDP growth for the UAE in 2021 after a 5.7 per cent contraction this year. The IMF has attributed the conservative forecasts for the Middle East and Central Asia region to the impact of low oil prices, COVID-19 geopolitical issues and conflicts in the region.

 
 

Company News

 

Van Cleef & Arples collaborates with Alexandre Benjamin Navet

Van Cleef & Arpels is collaborating with Alexandre Benjamin Navet, winner of the Grand Prix Design Parade Toulon Van Cleef & Arpels in 2017. From November 2020, shop windows at Van Cleef & Arpels’ boutiques will grace an immersive floral display, specially created by artist Alexandre Benjamin Navet. For this collaboration, the young talent agreed to reinterpret the Maison’s cherished theme of flowers, combined with the vases that are a recurrent motif in his own work. Stems and petals – cut out and reassembled into colorful compositions – seem to emerge from curved sculptures, which also hold the jewels. Created by Alexandre Benjamin Navet in pencil at his Paris studio, the original design reflects the artist’s attachment to spontaneous outlines and explosions of vivid, luminous color.

 

Chaumet presents Ondulation from Perspectives De Chaumet Collection

Inspired by deconstructivist architecture, Ondulation breaks free from the laws of perspective to celebrate the art of movement and the freedom to create. This parure once again evokes Chaumet jewellery of the 1970s, featuring yellow gold worked in unique textures and interplays of feminine curves. Suggesting a solar architecture, symbolic of life, yellow gold is masterfully shaped in volume like a second-skin mesh. The effect is one of surprise, alternating between full and fluid, it combines presence and lightness in a necklace that hugs the contours of the neck. Appearing perfectly posed on this flexible structure, an unusual bluish-green 30.22-carat tourmaline contrasts with the warm golden tones. 

 

Jacob & Co. partners with Khabib Nurmagomedov

Jacob & Co. only partners with the best of the best, like Bugatti, Lionel Messi, Supreme and others. Now, the brand has announced a new partnership with Khabib Nurmagomedov, the UFC lightweight champion of the world and widely considered the best pound-for-pound fighter in Mixed Martial Arts (MMA). Known as “The Eagle,” Khabib worked closely with Jacob & Co. to create four limited edition timepieces. The partnership with “The Eagle” launches with four watches, two Epic X Skeleton and two Epic X Chrono versions. Decorated with Khabib’s emblematic colors, the timepieces offer high watchmaking movements in the bold Epic X and Epic X Chrono cases.

 

Czapek & Cie teamed up with Arab Watch Club to support Emirates Foundation

Czapek has teamed up with one of the most prominent group of collectors in the Arab region, the Arab Watch Club, to support Emirates Foundation. To help raise funds for the volunteer organisation, Czapek has crafted a unique piece for the Place Vendome collection, the most exclusive collection within its portfolio. Named “Al Kanz”, or "The Treasure", in Arabic, the unique piece will be auctioned by Christie’s. The Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” 43.5mm titanium Grade 5 case hosts Czapek’s proprietary, manually wound SXH2 movement beating at 21,600 vph (3 Hz). The single barrel spring delivers a solid 60 hours of power. The movement finish includes satin-brushed bridges and open worked ratchet. 

 

Christophe Claret announces initiative for a good cause

This initiative was developed in response to the recent tragedy that hit Beirut on August 4th and destroyed half of the city. Through "Time stopped" Christophe Claret aim to help collect donations to support the affected by explosion families. As a token of appreciation to every person's generosity, they will receive the digital file of 11 artworks. All proceeds from this fundraising will be channeled to Beit El Baraka who are making every effort to help severely impacted schools, businesses, hospitals and homes, and work to rebuild the destroyed neighborhoods.

 

Mirko Heyne leads the research and development department at NOMOS Glashütte

Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at NOMOS Glashütte, continues to write watchmaking history. In admiration for the generations of watchmakers that preceded him, the former musician has dedicated his life to Glashütte - to the watches of tomorrow. Under Heyne’s direction, NOMOS Glashütte has introduced the new neomatik calibers, exceptionally slender automatic movements - as well as the watchmaking company’s first self-winding caliber, world time mechanism, power reserve mechanism, the NOMOS ring date, the proprietary escapement called the NOMOS swing system. He created - in cooperation with the Dresden University of Technology and the Fraunhofer Society - a proprietary gear wheel train, and with that he fell “deep into the world of gear cutting theory.” 

 
 

Product Launch

 

MB&F launches the LM Perpetual 'EVO'

A 44mm case in zirconium, a lustrous silvery-grey metal with material properties surpassing stainless steel and titanium. A new case profile that emphasises openness and extreme clarity. A specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system – “FlexRing” – that makes for the most robust Machine ever to emerge from MB&F. The LM Perpetual Engine, designed by Stephen McDonnell, an award-winning perpetual calendar that replaces traditional constructions with an innovative mechanical processor. Three options of PVD/CVD dial-plate colour, including — for the first time in a high-end piece of Swiss watchmaking — atomic orange. And a closely-fitted, integrated strap for the smoothest wearing experience of any MB&F Machine ever.

 

Presenting L.U.C Skull One by Chopard

Chopard has presented the L.U.C Skull One, a 100-piece limited-edition adorned with a Mexican calavera as a tribute to the Day of the Dead.  Clad in a beautiful combination of dark hues thanks to a black dial with lacquered finishes and gilded hour-markers, the L.U.C Skull One features a 40 mm case in beadblasted DLC stainless steel and a brown calfskin leather strap. Beneath this mischievous death mask beats the L.U.C 96.53-L mechanical movement with automatic winding, crafted by Chopard Manufacture Artisans. 

 

Girard-Perregaux launches the Laureato Absolute Crystal Rock

Measuring 44m in diameter, this new chronograph is housed in a case formed of Carbon Glass. Carbon Glass is strong and very light. Indeed, the Laureato Absolute Crystal Rock weighs just 94 grams. This high-tech material combines layers of carbon fibre and fibreglass which is subjected to high temperatures and pressure to form a homogenous material. Thereafter, the material is milled into the desired shape. The resultant case exhibits a matte, slightly textured finish. Interestingly, the constituent layers create uneven strata within the material and are randomly aligned, making the appearance of each case unique and every watch exclusive. The Laureato Absolute Crystal Rock is limited to 100 pieces.

 

Franck Muller releases Long Island

The design of the watch-case celebrate the art deco spirit, one of Franck Muller’s sources of inspiration. Its delicately traced geometric lines are a distinct reminder of that era and Franck Muller’s interpretation takes us to the heart of the elegant and sophisticated world of the 1930s. With its pure, rectangular shape and its numerals that appear both straight and arched, the Long Island is the very synthesis of early twentieth century artistic inspiration.

 

Eberhard & Co. launches new automatic 110th Alfa Romeo Anniversary chronograph

Eberhard & Co. has further strengthened its bond with historic Italian brand Alfa Romeo. In the wake of the success of the Quadrifoglio Verde model in 2019, the Maison has created a new limited edition chronograph to celebrate the 110th anniversary of the car manufacturer. The Eberhard & Co. 110th Alfa Romeo Anniversary chronograph has a 42 mm steel case. Sporty yet refined, the case houses the automatic chronograph movement and three counters. The reset function with coaxial push button is on the crown at 3 o’clock. Water resistant to 30 metres, the piece has a flat sapphire glass caseback, which is personalised with engravings and the Alfa Romeo logo, and closed with 6 screws.

 

Discover the Highlife Automatic COSC by Frederique Constant

Rarely are watches certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). This certificate is only issued to pieces that can guarantee perfect isochronism over a given time and at given positions – in effect, their ability to tell the time correctly, consistently and precisely, within the strict limits enforced by an ISO standard. This first COSC-certified watch from Frederique Constant was inspired by the original collection from 1999. The new Highlife Automatic COSC range brings together the best of the two other models with the three sleek hands of the Heart Beat and the date from the Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. This timepiece has been designed for everyday use and comes in two-tone, steel/blue dial and black leather/white dial versions.

 

Versace introduces Greca Chrono

Sporty and masculine, yet distinctively original, Versace has introduced the Greca Chrono for FW20.  Using the innovative Indiglo technology, a light emanates from the dial when the crown is pushed, illuminating the watch and allowing the wearer to tell the time no matter where the night takes them. The bold case features a tachymeter scale embossed on the top ring and is featured in classic col-our shades from classic to fashion stainless steel, gold and stainless steel bicolor, or gunmetal grey shades. The dial boasts the emblematic Medusa and logo at 12 o'clock. The style is available with a black, white silver, or blue dial. An ultimate daywear piece, the chronograph is presented with a metal band or a calf leather strap in a timeless shade of dark blue, military green, or black.

 
 

Exhibitions & Events

 

The first ever IIJS Virtual

The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India (GJEPC), the apex body for promotion of gems and jewellery, today inaugurated the first ever India International Jewellery Show, IIJS Virtual  2020, powered by GIA. GJEPC has organized IIJS for 38 editions, however due to pandemic the physical trade show has been transformed to a complete virtual experience for exhibitors as well as domestic and global visitors. The show will be open for 5 days till October 16, 2020. The IIJS Virtual 2020, has over 330 Exhibitors, 8000 registered Buyers, 2900 meetings have been booked and around 200 visitors registered from the US, UK, UAE, Qatar, Singapore, Bangladesh, Nepal, Oman, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Italy, Egypt, Belgium, Turkey, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Malaysia, Czech Republic, Copenhagen etc.

 
 
 
 

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