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Exclusive interview with Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune; Watches and Wonders 2021 confirms its agenda; Seddiqi Holding announces Leadership change
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Interviews
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Exclusive interview with Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune
Ever since its creation in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, De Bethune, the independent watch brand has made an impressive mark in the market for its watches by developing its own R&D and production tools. Being so, it has become a very popular and in-demand brand among watch collectors and watch connoisseurs.
Last week, De Bethune, along with its partner in the UAE Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, unveiled several new products. AWJ met De Bethune’s CEO Pierre Jacques, who explained his new vision of the brand and emphasized the importance of the Middle East markets for their watches.
Since its inception in 2002, De Bethune watches originally were linked to the sky and are distinguished by the logs and known for using different innovative material. How would you classify your watches: classic, sports, diving, even though your brand extends across most of these categories?
De Bethune always has two personalities. It is truly avant-garde as you can feel from the very first dream watch launched in 2007, which was like a space ship in the watch industry. While the strong personality of De Bethune is very classic, you can feel the contemporaneity in creations like the first digital DBS and also in the DB25 collection chronograph tourbillon. All these watches look very classic and we have the leader status in classical watches as the master of 18th century, but at the same time we are also in the lead making new designs with a lot of innovation. As you can see So De Bethune is a bridge between these two worlds.
In 2011 you were appointed as the CEO of Be Bethune to become a proud part owner of the brand. How much of responsibility, (fun) and involvement is this for Pierre?
I think my involvement was, is and will be 100 percent with the De Bethune. Being the CEO and then partner of the company has never made a difference. I always dedicate all my passion and time to the brand and make this brand growing. So it doesn’t change.
Is this fun for you?
Yes it is a lot of fun, I’m lucky to do what I like best as a job and in my position as well.
De Bethune is definitely not a first-choice watch? There is perhaps a long journey of first watches before the customer will offer you his hand? How would you profile the De Bethune client in the Middle East? Is he any different than the global watch buyer?
I think there is no difference between international and Middle East clients. Maybe the only difference could in the life style choosing between a sports watch and a classical watch. In the past we could say the clients preferred jewellery pieces but now I see we cannot generalize.
Clients have specific taste these days to suit their lifestyle or other environs. If you are living in a country which is warm and humid you will have a sports watch because maybe you will wear sneakers, jeans or shorts and a sports watch goes better with them, and for more temperate countries maybe you will have classical looking watch.
Your production is something like 160+ watches per year. And you sometimes spend a lot of time in developing a specific caliber, such as the world timer caliber to end up manufacturing and selling 10 watches. How feasible is this approach to the brand?
Last year our production reached 165 timepieces. This year it will be 200 pieces. As for the number of pieces, of course feasibility is not the focus. As I said in the beginning the idea is not to use economy of scale to become very rich. The vision we follow is to create the best watch we can and for that we invent new calibers even if it not for use in the main collection or for reuse in the future. It is part of the brand and the DNA of De Bethune is to create something extraordinary.
How many calibers do you have in your profile so far?
I think we should be having 26 calibers.
The shape of the De Bethune case and logs are very distinct and innovative. What are the other elements and statics that would add more beauty to the brand?
It is so difficult to tell. As you said the logs, the shape of the case like DB25 etc. are quite distinctive exclusive enough that even when you see from very far you will recognize if it is a De Bethune or not. It is really something unique and special and we also take care to integrate the past and the present to create uniqueness. We always follow the vision and that is why De Bethune is unique and unlike any other watch.
As an independent watch brand and in the current Corona -19 pandemic situation you must be facing several challenges. What are your current challenges?
Initially it was affecting us slightly because we hadn’t anticipated the crises which as unprecedented, but I can tell you that since end of last summer business is booming for independent brands and especially for De Bethune. Today two-third of the annual production is already allocated. We are really lucky because people now think there is a move and momentum for the independent watch maker. People are looking for authentic and long term value and they have learned to focus differently on marketing effectiveness and brand value.
Under the present circumstances how important is the Middle East market for De Bethune?
It is always very important especially Dubai market with which we have been involved for many years. We have the support of the Seddiqi family since the beginning and have a wonderful relationship not only in Dubai but in Abu Dhabi, Qatar and elsewhere in the region. More and more collectors looking for our creations as they understand De Bethune represent greater value for money. |
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Market News
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Watches and Wonders 2021 confirms its agenda
The program for Watches and Wonders 2021 is taking shape with a confirmed agenda. First, from April 7 to 13, will be the digital edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva where 38 prestigious brands will gather for the first time on a single platform: watchesandwonders.com. This private event for the media, retailers and the participating brands’ VIP customers will be followed, from April 14 to 18, by the in-person Watches and Wonders Shanghai, which will host 19 brands including first-time exhibitors Chopard, Montblanc, Rolex, Tudor and Ulysse Nardin. The journey promises to be intense and varied. As much from the brand’s side, with product launches, major announcements, On and Off programmes, as from the organisers in the form of exclusive specialist content. |
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Seddiqi Holding announces Leadership change
Seddiqi Holding has announced that Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi will be stepping down from his role as the Chairman of Seddiqi Holding, 14 years after assuming this position. Mr. Abdulmagied has been instrumental in establishing the foundations of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. He joined the company in 1969 after completing his studies in Lausanne and worked alongside his late father and brother Ibrahim to grow the business. Much of his work involved extensive travel to Switzerland in order to grow the company's luxury brand portfolio before assuming the position of Vice-Chairman in 2003 and Chairman in 2007. Mr. Abdulmagied will pass the baton of Chairmanship to his brother, Abdul Hamied Ahmed Seddiqi, current Vice-Chairman and the position of Vice-Chairman will be passed to Osama Ibrahim Seddiqi, current Chief Financial Officer of Seddiqi Holding. This relay of responsibility is also accompanied by some senior management changes within Seddiqi Holding. A new board of directors will be established, whose purpose is to move the company into the next stages of digital transformation and to prepare for omni-channel readiness. |
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Company News
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Audemars Piguet announces collaboration with Marvel
2021 marks the dawn of a new era and the start of a collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Marvel. Inspired by historical character watches, including some of Gérald Genta's timepieces from the 1980s, Audemars Piguet wanted to pay tribute to the next generation of inspirational Super Heroes and chose to focus on the powerful Marvel Universe. The partnership with Marvel is the latest example of how Audemars Piguet continuously looks beyond Haute Horlogerie for inspiration, notably in the realms of pop culture and the entertainment industry. In keeping with the Manufacture’s long history of design experimentation and connection to the larger cultural world, the partnership with Marvel takes Audemars Piguet’s celebration of inspirational Super Heroes to the next level and promises multiple exciting surprises. |
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Breitling opens new Industrial-Chic Boutique in Al Khobar
Located on the ground floor of the Rashid Mall, Al Khobar, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia - the new boutique is Breitling’s latest retail space to feature the brand’s unique design concept – a contemporary urban interpretation of an industrial loft. Breitling’s new 60m² boutique is a contemporary urban interpretation of an industrial loft in a dynamic city. The design of the boutique is inspired by a mid-twentieth-century industrial building as a nod to a time when the brand’s timepieces and professional measuring tools earned Breitling a formidable reputation. Unique artefacts such as aircraft propellers, a vintage Bentley sports car and bespoke furniture vividly bring to life the brand worlds of ‘air; land and sea’. The new boutique is home to the entire Breitling range of timepieces, including the Superocean, Chronomat and Navitimer collections. |
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OMEGA congratulates Emirates Team New Zealand
OMEGA congratulates Emirates Team New Zealand - winner of the 36th America’s Cup. The Kiwis defeated the Challenger of Record Luna Rossa in the first to seven series, by a margin of 7 races to 3 after a hard-won battle on Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour. Emirates Team New Zealand’s 2021 victory marks their fourth America’s Cup win, having claimed the “Auld Mug” three times prior, in 1995, 2000 and 2017. The win also represents a significant milestone in OMEGA’s distinguished sailing history, as the brand has been a proud supporter of Emirates Team New Zealand since 1995 and served as Official Timekeeper at this year’s event in Auckland: reprising a vital role undertaken twice before in 2000 and 2003. |
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Mouawad releases new video of Miss Universe titleholders sharing personal testimonies
In 2019, Mouawad formed a partnership with the Miss Universe Organization, a collaboration that saw the crafting and crowning of extraordinary moments: four bedazzling crowns worn by four praiseworthy winners. Taking inspiration from the values of the Miss Universe Organization and the universal themes of nature, strength, beauty, femininity, and community, Mouawad crafted the Mouawad Miss Universe Power of Unity Crown for the winner of Miss Universe 2019. Following Miss Universe is Miss USA 2020 Asya Branch, who was crowned with the Mouawad Miss USA Power of Positivity Crown, in a moment which she recalls as “undoubtedly the greatest” of her life. Miss Teen USA 2020 Ki’Ilani Arruda appears wearing the Mouawad Miss Teen USA Power of Hope crown. In an extension of its partnership with the Miss Universe Organization, Mouawad crafted the Mouawad Miss Universe Thailand 2020 Power of Authenticity Crown, which saw Amanda Obdam crowned the titleholder. |
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Vacheron Constantin opens its new boutique in Bahrain
Vacheron Constantin along with its partner Bahrain Jewellery Centre, has opened its first boutique in the capital of the Kingdom of Bahrain, Manama. This newly opened boutique, located in Moda Mall dignifies the Maison’s elegant Swiss heritage with the warm and timeless Middle East accents. Together the two distinctly align throughout the boutique to welcome connoisseurs and watch lovers. The boutique houses simple models to high complication timepieces as well as the most recent Égérie collection. Following international standards and bespoke hospitality, the boutique caters for clients with the sophisticated first-service of one-on-one appointments within the comfort of the private VIP room. |
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The opening of Louis Vuitton Ginza Namiki in Tokyo
Louis Vuitton has announced the arrival of Louis Vuitton Ginza Namiki in Tokyo’s Ginza district. The store presents an ambitious transformation of an existing location. Reimagined as an aesthetic dialogue between virtuoso architects, Jun Aoki and Peter Marino, an entirely new, naturalistic tower rises, inspiring wonder – both outside and within. From the same corner siting, occupied by Louis Vuitton since 1981, the building’s highly modern appearance interprets the reflections of water as a material phenomenon. The store experience culminates in Le Café V, where celebrated chef Yosuke Suga collaborates for the second time with the House, additionally developing flavours for Le Chocolat V, the first-ever line of Louis Vuitton chocolates that will make their world debut here at the end of April. |
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Product Launch
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L’azurde unveils new Instyle collection with Myriam Fares
L’azurde Company has launched its newest collection under the name Instyle in cooperation with its brand ambassador, the Queen of Stage, Myriam Fares, who appeared as glowing as ever in the new advertising campaign. The new Instyle collection by L’azurde features exquisite pieces of meticulously made jewelry, all crafted in the highest-quality gold and encrusted with diamonds, pearls and precious stones, according to the highest standards in jewelry making. As its name suggests, Instyle promises all L’azurde jewelry lovers fashionable and ultra-modern ornaments which can be styled in glamorous looks to keep up with the latest design and color trends in the world of fashion and jewelry. |
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Introducing DB28XP Meteorite by De Bethune
Ferrous meteorites have already been used at De Bethune, notably to create one of the cases of the famous Dream Watch 5 and then the dial of the DB28 Kind of Blue Meteorite. The dial of the DB28XP Meteorite is adorned with an ancestral stone forged in space. A metal alloy that endows the dial with a distinctive texture, along with geometrical patterns aligned in a precise way that makes each timepiece special and unique. Dotted across this blue dial surface is a multitude of small white gold pins, delicately driven in between the different shapes and thicknesses of the octahedral geometrical structures. Like tiny suspended marbles, these glittering flashes of light endow the celestial vault with its aura of timeless depth. In addition to bringing a unique fragment of space to the wrist, each sky is different: the customer can choose a given constellation, according to a precise sky map, at a specific date, time and place. |
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The snow setting drifts into the Richard Mille collection
In the expert hands of gem-setters, Richard Mille’s timepieces for women sparkle brightly with a thousand rays. The technique called ‘snow setting’ lends an opulent quality to these pieces making them worthy of a winter wonderland. By embracing the volume of the watch to enhance its sensuous curves, this setting emphasises an artistic dimension that permeates the women’s collections, particularly on various interpretations of the RM 07-01 and the RM 037. To highlight this technique, the brand presents today a full snow set version all in white gold that sparkles a pavé of diamonds on the bezel that is continued across the entire dial. Both the gem-set caseband pillars and open-link bracelet complete this breath-taking picture. The beauty of these round diamonds, combined with the gleaming metal, make for a dazzling winter display. |
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Bell & Ross launches BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE
Bell & Ross has developed DIVER BRONZE timepieces that are perfectly in-keeping with the marine depth. After releasing a black version in 2018, a green version in 2019, and a blue one last year, the brand is now completing its shade card with red. Its case and bezel are made of satin-polished CuSn8 Bronze, an alloy combining 92% Copper and 8% Tin, that is deeply linked to diving history as it was used in the past for deep-sea helmets and naval construction. Adorning hints of pink, the bronze will age well. The patina will emphasize the authentic and unique character of this DIVER watch, much-loved by collectors. Available in a limited edition of 500, the BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE sports the watch's emblem, a deep-sea diver's helmet that is engraved on the case-back. |
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Introducing Franck Muller Casablanca Limited Edition
An exceptional collaboration between Franck Muller, renowned artist Daniel Arsham and expert engraver Johnny Dowell aka King Nerd, joining forces with Bamford Watch Department for a unique Casablanca limited edition. The style of the Casablanca blends perfectly with the creative ingenuity of Arsham, King Nerd and Bamford Watch Department. Dynamic, contemporary and classic, it is an enchanting model which has been designed with an intricacy of detail. The Arsham Studio Monogram is repeated throughout the design; from the stunning turquoise printed dial to the embossed leather strap, and hand engraved case by King Nerd. The caseback has also been engraved with an eroded Arsham Studio ‘A’ along with a Casablanca logo inspired by the film of the same name. 5 pieces limited edition, housed in a unique outer box which continues the Arsham Studio ‘A’ monogram design. |
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Presenting the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18
Reinterpreting a 46 mm Minerva historical military chronograph from the 1930s equipped with the original calibre 19-09CH, the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 features a case made of an innovative 18K gold alloy called Lime Gold, a distinctive gold-coloured dial with contrasting green elements and a matching vintage green nubuck calf strap – an harmony of colour making this timepiece unique. It is the first time that a watch Maison unveils a model with this colour of gold fondly named Lime Gold thanks to its deep golden colour that veers towards a pale yellowy green. The glass above the dial has an anti-magnetized treatment on the inside top sapphire crystal to enable greater precision of the chronograph’s two second hands. |
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Vhernier’s Coucher De Soleil
A fascinating innovation which fully respects the hallmarks of Vhernier: the new Coucher de Soleil collection is the fruit of a desire to create innovative jewellery unlike anything else, featuring a strong sense of movement and a combination of classic jewellery materials with less traditional ones, all while adhering to the principles of simplicity and precision that distinguish the brand. The result is jewellery that has the classic Vhernier forms - cuff bracelets and band rings, sculptural earrings that mirror the curve of the lobes - but also features an extraordinary lightness, thanks to the individual vertical components from which it is made. The metal bands create a more decorative design than is typical of Vhernier’s customary approach, yet the result still features the clean, understated aesthetics for which the brand is famous. |
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Pomellato presents Brera 2021 collection
For 2021, Pomellato celebrates its Maison’s singular style with striking new Brera jewels, crafted for the chic fashionista. Enriched with Italian flair and masterful craftsmanship, new Brera creations include an ‘ear cuff,’ dangle earrings, and two between-the-finger rings. With absolute distinction, Brera jewels are sculpted for the woman who dares to start the conversation, in audacious Italian style. For 2021, Pomellato celebrates its Maison’s singular style with striking new Brera jewels, crafted for the chic fashionista. Enriched with Italian flair and masterful craftsmanship, new Brera creations include an ‘ear cuff,’ dangle earrings, and two between-the-finger rings. With absolute distinction, Brera jewels are sculpted for the woman who dares to start the conversation, in audacious Italian style.
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Celebrity News
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Megan Thee Stallion & Ingrid Andress wear Chopard Jewelry for the 63rd Annual Grammy Awards
On March 14, 2021, Grammy winner Megan Thee Stallion & Ingrid Andress participated in the 63rd Annual Grammy Awards wearing jewelry by Chopard. Megan Thee Stallion, winner of the Best Rap Performance, Best Rap Song for 'Savage' and Best New Artist, chose earrings from the Happy Diamonds collection, a necklace from the Red Carpet collection, a bracelet from the Green Carpet collection and from the Haute Joaillerie collection, and a ring from the Magical Setting collection. While Ingrid Andress, Best New Artist nominee, wore earrings from the Red Carpet collection, rings from the Precious Lace collection and from the L’Heure du Diamant collection, and a selection of rings from the Ice Cube collection. |
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Zendaya wears Bvlgari at 26th Annual Critics Choice Awards
Bvlgari brand ambassador and 2021 nominee for Best Actress for the 26th Annual Critics Choice Awards, Zendaya wore Bvlgari high jewelry Divas’ Dream multi-colored gemstone earrings for the evening, paired with multiple Fiorever pink gold rings. |
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