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Talking Watches with Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO & Creative Director, Louis Moinet
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Interviews
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Talking Watches with Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO & Creative Director, Louis Moinet
We heard during Baselworld about the “Chronosphere” a watch that combines a chronograph and a retrograde, but did not get to see it yet, kindly tell us more about it.
CHRONOSPHERE is a world first, combining a special retrograde system with a chronograph. This unique mechanism is located on the front of the watch, and very spectacular from a visual point of view.
At the heart of the system is a cam, which sets the pace of both the retrograde seconds system and a jumping disc that counts tens of seconds. CHRONOSPHERE’s design includes an element of fun: the system is constantly in motion. Its technical complexity is such that it could be protected by a whole host of patents.
The Mars, the Moon, Skylink are all watches related to space, where does Louis Moinet fascination with space come from? What can we expect more?
Mr. Moinet invented the chronograph in 1816 for the purposes of his astronomical observations. This connection with space is one of Louis Moinet’s three core values, along with mechanical art and design.
Devising and designing watches is a wonderful trade. In my career, I’ve been fortunate enough to meet some of the greatest astronauts, including Alexey Leonov (the first man to perform a spacewalk) and Charlie Duke (one of the twelve men to have walked on the moon). I’ve also had the opportunity to rub shoulders with some of the world’s leading meteorite experts.
As a result, Louis Moinet has made ‘space poetry’ a reality, expressed in a variety of ways in rare pieces, manufactured only in limited editions. Exclusivity is an important factor, not least because lunar and Martian meteorites sell for literally astronomical prices – they’re among the most expensive materials in the world! The resulting timepieces are therefore highly exclusive, made for a discerning clientele that seeks out genuinely precious acquisitions.
And in the future, here at Louis Moinet we do intend to explore the ‘space poetry’ theme still further.
Last year Louis Moinet introduced the Falcon, Ganesh & Mosaic watches in SDGC Abu Dhabi, do you have any new special editions for watch collectors and enthusiasts in the Middle East now?
It all began in 1806… Right from the outset, Louis Moinet supplied US Presidents, the Tsars of Russia, Emperors, and other sovereigns; and today, Louis Moinet’s clients also include Kings, Sultans, and Emirs.
For them and its other VIP clients, Louis Moinet has developed a bespoke line, the central idea of which involves combining mechanical art with the distinctive characteristics of a given culture. To ensure a powerful, characterful result, Louis Moinet collaborates with the foremost specialists in the relevant fields: engravers, ciseleurs, painters, and setters, often making use of exceptional materials such as dinosaur bone and fossilised palm tree alongside its very special mechanisms.
What is your approach towards e-commerce?
There’s no denying that we live in a digital world. Digital technology is disrupting the status quo on a daily basis, and we need to be attentive and flexible in response.
Generally speaking, e-commerce is definitely an interesting alternative; that said, in the field of top-of-the-range watchmaking, customisation plays far too great a role for e-commerce to be relevant. At best, e-commerce can serve as a virtual meeting-place; somewhere a watchmaking creation can be displayed. That might garner interest for the piece, but it will never be able to replace the human factor. You don’t buy a Louis Moinet because you need it; you buy one because you’ve fallen in love with it.
How have been social media improving and/or challenging your business?
Social media offer us a mirror image of the modern world: quick, effective, ubiquitous, and concise, allowing the buyer to know what’s what instantaneously. And that’s a challenge for retailers worldwide: they have to be constantly alert...
Instagram in particular is a very effective channel. A message can be sent out to a target audience made up of the brand’s collectors and fans, in an instant. We ourselves got started on social media several years ago, building up an extensive network of interested people all around the world. So I’d say that social media help us on a daily basis.
There is a lot going around the sustainable Luxury, do you have any intention to use ethical gold in Louis Moinet‘s watches?
Living in Switzerland encourages us to be environmentally-friendly. We strive to respect the world around us and not overuse its resources.
We’ve used shagreen only once, and systematically refused to do so ever since, because there’s no proof of origin. Our movements themselves are fully mechanical, causing zero pollution, unlike quartz.
When it comes to gold, there are strict sourcing rules to be observed. We haven’t used Fairtrade gold so far, because as yet only small quantities are available. I hope that the future will allow us to find an effective way of dealing with all kinds of overuse and abuse: we must protect both our planet and those who live on it.
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Market News
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Dubai among busiest airports in the world
Dubai is again the world’s busiest airport by number of international passengers. More than 89.1 million passengers passed through the airport in 2018, according to the latest Airports Council International’s world traffic report – making it once again the world’s busiest airport for international passengers. Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson Airport in the US state of Georgia was once again the world’s busiest airport overall, with more than 107 million passengers last year. In second place was Beijing Capital International Airport, which has about 101 million passengers. The world’s third busiest was Dubai, followed by Los Angeles International Airport (87.5 million passengers). Tokyo Haneda Airport (86.9 million passengers) was fifth. |
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Rate cuts to support GCC’s economic growth outlook
The Central Bank of UAE (CBUAE) and Saudi Monetary Authority (SAMA) announced quarter of a per cent (25 basis points) cut in their key lending rates, following the much-anticipated rate cut by the Federal Reserve. GCC central banks in general follow the Fed’s monetary policy lead to maintain exchange rate stability in their respective countries in the context of their pegged currencies. This time too, regional central banks, with the exception of Kuwait, were expected to cut rates following the Fed action. Kuwait, usually does not follow the Fed rate cuts as its currency is pegged to a basket of currencies. The CBUAE announced that effective Thursday 19 September 2019, it will lower interest rates on certificates of deposits (CDs) in line with the decrease in interest rates on US dollar. |
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Jacob & Co. appoints Z7 Communications as communications agency for the Middle East
Leading high watchmaking and high jewellery house, Jacob & Co., has appointed Z7 Communications to represent the brand in the Middle East. Z7 Communications is the leading luxury brand, communications, digital and events agency, with an established 12 years of experience in the region. Offering bespoke, innovative and integrated solutions for pioneering brands across fashion, beauty, fine jewellery, lifestyle and hospitality, the agency is known for its commitment and dedication to introducing local and international brands to target consumers. |
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Company News
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Vacheron Constantin re-opened its boutique in Mall of the Emirates
Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch manufacturer, in continuous production for over 260 years re-opened their boutique in Mall of the Emirates. The newly located Vacheron Constantin Boutique in Mall of Emirates invites customers to a space of refined and sophisticated ambiance in one of the most important luxury shopping destinations of Dubai. The boutique features the new Vacheron Constantin design concept, which focuses on private bespoke appointments whilst also creating a warm and welcoming space for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. |
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Ulysse Nardin in partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons opens flagship boutique in Dubai Mall
Ulysse Nardin opened its Middle Eastern flagship boutique, located in the world famous shopping destination – The Dubai Mall. The expertly crafted boutique is set to excite watch enthusiasts and collectors alike, whilst drawing in curiosity from those wanting to discover more about the acclaimed brand and its rich history of over 170 years. Every finite detail has been honed to ensure the store concept exudes a contemporary architectural concept by following a natural order; the sea below, the sky above and the horizon that separates them. |
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BVLGARI celebrates Serpenti Seduttori during London Fashion Week
BVLGARI swept the London Fashion Week crowd off its feet with a stunning celebration for its Serpenti Seduttori women’s watch collection. One of the highlights of the City’s chicest week, the evening event was an exhilarating way to fête the collection that was Born to be Gold, and to introduce its three latest Serpenti Seduttori styles — the first models from the line having made their debut at Baselworld 2019. A radiant occasion devoted to the preciousness of time itself, the night culminated in an exclusive performance from BRIT Award-winner Ellie Goulding. |
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Jaeger-LeCoultre honours the major award winners at the 76th Venice International Film Festival
At the closing ceremony of Venice International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre recognised the winners of the Leone D’Oro award for Best Film and the Coppa Volpi awards for Best Actress and Best Actor by presenting each of them with a specially commissioned Reverso timepiece. These original pieces, created by the artisans at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacture in the Valle´e de Joux, have each been hand-engraved with the symbol of Venice: a winged lion, and the words ‘Leone D’oro’ and ‘Coppa Volpi’. |
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Product Launch
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TAG Heuer KSA Limited Edition green Aquaracer
TAG Heuer has unveiled its limited edition Aquaracer with a striking green bezel that has been inspired by the dominant color in the flag of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA). The KSA limited edition timepiece also features a steel screw-down case back with a special engraving “KSA LIMITED EDITION” and is numbered out of 200, as only 200 pieces have been created. The special KSA limited edition Aquaracer is available across Saudi Arabia from 23rd September 2019. Offering a unique double security clasp and unidirectional turning bezel, the limited edition green Aquaracer is water resistant up to 300 feet and a unique example of TAG Heuer designed technology, merged with aesthetic prowess. |
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Richard Mille introduces RM 50-04 Tourbillon Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen
The Singapore Formula 1 Grand Prix is the perfect occasion for Richard Mille to present the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen alongside its partner. The piece pays homage to both this great driver and his team: Alfa Romeo Racing Team, the legendary manufacturer inseparable from car racing. This extremely technical calibre is fitted with a split-seconds chronograph tourbillon and a grade-5 titanium and Carbon TPT® movement that weighs just 7 grams. |
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Tudor launches Black Bay Chrono Dark
To celebrate the All Blacks legacy and mark the Rugby World Cup 2019 (RWC) as the team will defend its back-to-back champions title, TUDOR launched the Black Bay Chrono Dark model, a new black version – matching the All Blacks' famous jersey– of its chronograph, fitted with a Manufacture Calibre with column wheel and vertical clutch. Unusually for TUDOR, the new model is a limited edition: a watch to pay tribute to every player who has been selected for New Zealand's national rugby team from its creation in 1903 to the RWC 2019 or 1181 timepieces at the time of writing. The number will be adjusted according to the final composition of the World Cup team. The series will grow over the coming years as new players join the ranks of the All Blacks. |
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OMEGA’s fine jewellery collection
OMEGA’s classic and contemporary watch for women served as inspiration for these delicate jewellery pieces, which embrace the same floral design as that found on the crown of the 2018 De Ville Trésor. A close inspection of the flower’s petals reveals a familiar shape – OMEGA’s distinctive logo. The OMEGA Flower Collection consists of an 18K red gold necklace with Cornelian cabochon - and matching bracelet with additional cabochon in mother-of-pearl. Fans of 18K white gold can choose the same style necklace and bracelet with Turquoise cabochons. The 2019 collection also includes an 18K white gold ring and 18K white gold bracelet - both graced with 19 diamonds. |
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Citizen launches 30th anniversary Promaster limited edition collection
Celebrating three decades, PROMASTER is a collection of professional-grade sports watches with an appeal for the everyday adventurer boasting the highest levels of functionality and endurance. In celebration of this milestone, Citizen launched two limited edition commemorative PROMASTER models, highlighting SKY and MARINE categories. The collection not only features CITIZEN’s proprietary light-powered Eco-Drive technology but combines creative strengths with the excellence of high-end watch manufacturing and technological innovations.
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Frederique Constant presents its new Yacht Timer Timepieces
On the occasion of the prestigious Cannes Yachting Festival, Frederique Constant launched the Yacht Timer collection with two new models: the Regatta Countdown and the Yacht Timer GMT models for competitive sailing and other nautical activities lovers. In 2019, the Regatta makes its celebrated comeback. This one is part of the collection renamed Yacht Timer. The name could not be more fitting since the Regatta has a built-in timer that counts down the critical 10 minutes before the sailing vessels set off for the race. Frederique Constant also unveiled the Yacht Timer GMT, a new model with two versions that are unmistakably nautical in nature. |
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Robert Wan presents Zoja Collection
The Zoja collection in collaboration with international designer Zoja Mihic, is inspired by the essence of the modern woman. Using natural pearls, keshi’s, the collection celebrates their unique form by placing the pearls in 'free' unconstrained settings mirrored by subtle fine diamond shapes. The line seeks to merge the timeless of the pearl and wear ability in a spirited new way, evoking nature and the natural beauty of the Tahitian pearl. |
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Vhernier’s Pop Collection
Pop puts a contemporary spin on the flawless elegance of the classic chain. The rose gold links come in different sizes and alternate with ebony or reconstructed kogolong, coral or turquoise links to create an alluring contrast. The contrast between the two materials is refined—one shiny and reflective, the other tactile and deep. The fastening is concealed, a traditional Vhernier touch. With its elegant and sophisticated design, the Vhernier Pop is reinventing the classic chain. |
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Fatal Attraction Collection by AKILLIS
The AKILLIS Fatal Attraction collection was specifically designed to have a strong impact, and impact it does as the collection takes its name from the ancient Greek Cupid analogy. Then Achilles and now Cupid, Caroline Gaspard draws her inspiration from Mythology since the creation of AKILLIS in 2007, with a very modern interpretation of falling in love. The collection makes use of white, pink and yellow gold as well as in titanium, and the pieces are either set with white diamonds or contrasted with black diamonds. These pendants bring a feisty unconquerability to one’s neck. This collection is designed for men & women alike. |
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Exhibitions & Events
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India Design Gallery at Hong Kong Jewellery Show
The leading jewellery event in Asia Pacific, Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair 2019 witnessed India Pavilion organized by Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). This year, 99 gem and jewellery exporters participated at the “India Pavilion” showcased a wide variety of trendy, unique and innovative jewellery made especially for the Asian market. This year, the India Pavilion at HKJGF had some special attractions. It featured an exclusive India Design Gallery, showcased some of the most magnificent jewelry pieces created for the Hong Kong market. The theme was COSMOS, a representation of jewellery consumer trends for 2020. |
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