Interviews

Interview with Mr. Nicolas Bos, President & CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

Nicolas Bos: Taking challenges head-on

Van Cleef & Arpels is a true reference in high-end watches and jewellery. And Nicolas Bos, President & CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, aims to reinforce this position in the region and around the world. The company also aims to expand in the Middle East through opening new boutiques and participating in multi-purpose events. Below are excerpts from the interview with Bos:

As the new president & CEO, what is your vision and target for Van Cleef & Arpels - particularly in the Middle East?

Today, our vision and target are to cement Van Cleef & Arpels as a true and inescapable reference in high jewellery and high watchmaking throughout our creations, our events and our exhibitions, but also to continue developing our centennial know-how.
Middle East is amongst the major global luxury markets where we recently greatly expanded. For this part of the world, we would like to reinforce our positioning through opening new boutiques or by participating in events like Design Days of Dubai in March.

What in your opinion, is the foundation for the success story that defines the 105-year-old Van Cleef & Arpels brand today?

Van Cleef & Arpels is an internationally-renowned Maison in high jewellery and high watchmaking. This is mainly due to our very unique sources of inspiration, recognisable signature style, treatment of the movement, asymmetry or transformability, innovative techniques and designs – for instance, the Zip necklace or the Between the Fingers ring - exceptional quality of stones and a virtuoso craftsmanship passed on by generations of Mains d’Or™ …

How is the synergy with the Richemont Group enhancing Van Cleef & Arpels’ brand capabilities and expansion plans?

Richemont group is a solid and perennial support for Van Cleef & Arpels. Its vision is to plan the development of luxury Maisons on a long-term basis and allow them to grow in coherence with their identity, their history and their excellence.

What kind of impact does Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) have on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?

SIHH is a key rendezvous! It is a meeting and encounters’ platform that allows us to meet press, clients and partners from Middle East, amongst others. It permits to present, in avant-première and in optimal conditions, the Maison’s creations for the upcoming years.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2013?

Through the SIHH, amongst other fairs, exhibitions and events, we will continue to express our unique vision of Time. Poetic Complications and Extraordinary Dials for instance give a unique dimension to time, that of poetry and dream; which is completely based on the identity and the values of our Maison.

What are the foreseen trends and directions in watches and jewellery in 2013? Any particular directions that your brand is keen to apply in terms of movements or designs?
 
I would say that the whole collective process will continue to search for singularity, recognisable pieces, innovative techniques and aesthetics while balancing historical and new references. And always keeping in mind that each and every piece must stand alone and by itself as recognisably a true Van Cleef & Arpels signature no matter what collection or story it comes from.

What are your “star” novelties for this SIHH? When would we expect the SIHH novelties to be available at your boutiques and POS in the Middle East?

Six years after launching its first Poetic Complication, Van Cleef & Arpels revisits this year the grace of the female form with the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée timepiece.
With our Extraordinary Dials™ novelties, Van Cleef & Arpels presents an enchanting interpretation of the passage of time including this year twirling butterflies and kites.
In 2008 the Charms watch was born, with its lucky charm motif spinning merrily around the dial. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels is opening a new chapter: Four auspicious symbols – the lily-of-the-valley, the lotus flower, the dandelion and the swallow.
The novelties will be available in December 2013 in the Middle East.

Which of your watch models and jewellery collections are the most popular in the Middle East? And why?

Our clients here have a sharp eye for quality and are becoming more and more connoisseurs of the Maison.
The most popular Van Cleef & Arpels timepieces in the Middle East are Pont Des Amoureux, Charms and Day & Night. Their success is due to the much appreciated and valued craftsmanship behind the design and technical innovation of the Poetic Complication, and the timeless elegance of the Charms watches.
As for the jewellery, the nature inspired collections and more specifically the floral designs are very popular in the region. Socrate, Lotus, Snowflake and Caresse d’Eole capture the beauty of nature reflected in meticulous details and diamonds setting. Van Cleef & Arpels’ range of Between the Finger rings is also in high demand in the Middle East, this technique being a signature of the Maison that adorns the fingers of the lady with a playful design.

What are the challenges you are facing as a watch maker and jewellery house?

Since all of our activity is based on creation, we try not to be affected by global and regional economic circumstances. We just create the pieces that are right and in the exemplary manner.
I also believe that jewels and timepieces are works of art and the combination of great inspiration, beautiful design and amazing craftsmanship. We take all the time it takes to get to the most amazing result without compromise.

VC&A recently endorsed its special orders services in the Middle East. Do you intend to further reinforce this service and develop it further?

The special order service is a service that Van Cleef & Arpels introduced worldwide long ago, giving the opportunity to its clients to have custom-made high jewellery. This service is intrinsic to the tradition of the Maison as it is a one-on-one approach with our special clients. We have created jewellery on special orders for renowned royalties and celebrities from the likes of HRH Princess Fawziya of Egypt and Empress Farah Pahlavi. Van Cleef & Arpels extended this service on timepieces with Art on Dial, enabling the watches enthusiasts to own a timepiece designed to their dreams.

Nicolas Bos credit Van Cleef & Arpels – Photo by Patrick Swirc

Interview with Mr. Matthieu Dupont, Brand Director of A. Lange & Söhne Middle East

Longing for novelty

Matthieu Dupont, Brand Director of A. Lange & Söhne Middle East, has strong confidence in this region. This trust is reflected in the fact that the company opened two outlets in the UAE in the past 12 months; the biggest was opened in the Dubai Mall. Dupont also pins high hopes on Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie exhibition to showcase all of its novelties. Below are excerpts from the interview with Dupont for Arabian Watches and Jewellery magazine:

What sort of impact will Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) have on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?

SIHH is a major event at which we showcase our novelties each year. It offers a unique opportunity for our partners to see all novelties, and bearing in mind our limited supply throughout the year, it is a key occasion that is highly anticipated from one year to the next. SIHH spotlights our status as a very exclusive brand within the Richemont portfolio and allows us to reiterate our core brand values and on-going quest for perfection.

What are your expectations of SIHH 2013?

To reiterate and share the overall brand direction for the coming year and present our new models to key retail and press partners, all the while emphasising our expertise in the precision watchmaking industry.

What are your 'star' novelties for the SIHH?
 
One of our highlights this year is the Grand Lange 1 Lumen, a strictly limited edition of only 200 platinum-cased watches worldwide. Parts of the dial are made of semi-transparent sapphire crystal, revealing the mechanism of the date complication, which, together with the time and power reserve, glows in the dark. The outer ring and the display surfaces for hours, minutes and seconds are made of blackened silver. The superb craftsmanship and virtuosity can also be admired from the sapphire crystal caseback. Our other novelties will be shown at the SIHH. All I can say is that the programme has an interesting twist.

When may we expect SIHH novelties to be available in boutiques and POS in the Middle East?

It all depends on the novelty. We are ensuring that the lead-time between SIHH and boutique as well as POS arrivals is reduced year by year. For 2013, I am pleased to say we shall receive pieces in the Middle East hopefully from July onwards.

Which of your watch models are the most popular in the Middle East and why?

The Lange 1 family has always been a great success of the brand as a long-standing iconic collection with a diverse range of models available. One of these, the Lange 1 Time Zone, the ultimate travel companion for cosmopolites and frequent flyers, features a rotating ring with the names of 24 cities, now including Riyadh and Beirut, representing the respective time zones.

The Grand Lange 1 is also a firm favourite. With its altered dimensions and a new inner life, it exhibits true grandeur. A newly-developed movement makes it possible to transpose the subtly balanced dial layout of the Lange 1 to its larger sibling while slimming down the silhouette.

Another much sought-after model is the Datograph UP/DOWN, a true benchmark in chronograph design, which we launched during SIHH 2012. This particular timepiece has been justly referred to by some as 'the chronograph of its generation'. We agree. 

What challenges do you see as a watchmaker?

Today's economic environment is fast moving and quickly changing. We have faced more difficult situations in the last 35 years than over the last 350 years, which is a strong reflection of the dynamism of today's economic position and the fast reaction to the changing environment. A. Lange & Söhne however, is not, and will never be, a high volume production manufactory due to the technical mastery of our timepieces and the amount of effort exerted upon each and every individual watch. Demand remains consistent and supply is comparatively low so we have faced no major issues in navigating the bumpy weather. The fact that we have in the past 12 months opened eight boutiques worldwide out of which two boutiques are in the Middle East; the first in Etihad Towers, Abu Dhabi, and the second, our flagship store in the region in The Dubai Mall, Dubai, the latter our largest boutique in the world, is a sure indication that the brand is both confident in its upcoming developments and future.

Product Launch

Vacheron Constantin Ladys’ Watches

Vacheron Constantin dedicated most of its new watches to women. The Swiss watch house introduced 3 major collections, Patrimony, Malte and Métiers d’Art, encompass creations that have been entirely conceived and designed for women. The new watches show the brand’s determination to dedicate their best work to women by combining the beauty intrinsic in artistic craftsmanship with the technical mastery of the mechanisms of time. Three major collections each offer their own interpretation of time in the feminine gender. The Malte collection extends the celebration of its 100th anniversary with a seductive emphasis of its curvaceous case. Patrimony is home to original creations in the Contemporary and Tradition styles that extol the jewellery-making skills of the manufacture’s gem-setters. Finally the latest opus of the Métiers d’Art collection, called Florilège, draws from ancient knowledge to steal a woman’s heart with three outstanding models.

Cartier Crash watch

French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier revealed its Crash watch. Available in 18kt white or rose gold, the case measures 38.5mm x 25.5mm and has 150 diamonds (2.15 carats). The watch is equipped with a manual-wind Cartier caliber with 18 jewels; while the crystal is mineral and it has a solid caseback. The optional diamond bracelet has 471 diamonds (4.27 carats). Cartier Crash was first introduced in late 1967.The story behind the Crash watch started whenvice president from the Cartier offices in London, was involved in a fatal car crash. A fire ensued and the occupant along with his watch was caught up in the flames, furthering along the fatality and “melting” the watch on his wrist. The watch being melted and mangled took on the shape of a surrealistic watch from a Dali painting. Cartier, found this “watch design” actually inspiring, and decided to introduce is as a new design, and as a tribute to their fallen colleague. Thus the “Crash” watch was born.”

Piaget First Minute Repeater

Piaget revealed “The Piaget EmperadorCoussinUltra Thin Minute Repeater” which is a double record-holder, being both the thinnest minute repeater wristwatch (9.4mm thick case) and having the thinnest movement (4.8mm for the automatic calibre 1290P). This minute repeater is a first for Piaget and completes the firm’s high complication journey, with in-house chronographs, perpetual calendars and tourbillons already in the mix.

Van Cleef & Arpels: Fairies and Butterflies

Van Cleef & Arpels opened a new chapter for its Charms watch collection with four new auspicious symbols – the lily of the valley, the lotus flower, the dandelion, and the swallow. For its Extraordinary Dials collection, Van Cleef & Arpels used the butterfly – a universal symbol of metamorphosis – to evoke the cycles of nature and the seasons: from day to night and from spring to winter. However, the highlight of Van Cleef’s SIHH presentation would have to be the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Poetic Complication, a watch with a double retrograde mechanical movement that shows the time on demand. Its design was inspired by the mechanism of a piece from the company’s watchmaking heritage: the Magicienchinois pocket watch from 1927. At the push of a button, the figure indicates the hours and minutes by raising its arms. Here, the golden ballerina is sculpted in relief and set with diamonds, and her tutu serves to indicate the time at the push of a button.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor in Silicon

Roger Dubuis revealed the Excalibur Quatuor, anultra exclusive version limited to just 3 pieces, cased in silicon. According to Roger Dubuis, “Silicon has been chosen for its uniquely low weight and its incomparable hardness. In fact, it is half the weight of titanium, which is half the weight of steel, yet it is 4 times harder.” The watch is equipped with Caliber RD0101,a hand wound mechanical movement, rhodium coated, perlage decor, Geneva Seal; 590 parts, 40 hour power reserve.

A.Lange & Söhne’s Limited Grand Lange 1 “Lumen”

Limited Grand Lange 1 “Lumen”offers enlightenment: a semi-transparent dial exposes the ingenious mechanism of the first luminescent outsize date display by A. Lange & Söhne. The Grand Lange 1 with the Latin attribute “Lumen” reveals this secret of the big date. The timepiece, which comes in a limited edition of 100 watches in platinum cases, has parts of its dial consist of semitransparent sapphire crystal. Only the outer ring and the surfaces of the displays for hours and minutes as well as small seconds are made of blackened silver. The sapphire crystal surface reveals the disc mechanism of the first outsizedate that glows in the dark. Additionally, the time and the power reserve are also legible in the dark. Lange’s product developers were able to ensure maximum luminosity for the date display, even immediately after the daily switching operation.

Panerai First Pocket Watch

Panerai unveiled the new and colorful Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days ChronoFlybackTitanio, the black ceramic Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica, and the incredible Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica/PAM00446 which features skeleton hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.2005/S calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 16¼ lignes, 10.05 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 6 days, three barrels.The watch comes with personalised watch chain in black ceramic.

Parmigiani New Tonda Tourbillon Collection

Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled the new Tonda Tourbillon wristwatches that can be transformedinto a table clock with beautiful marquetry dials that celebrate the spirit of music. Each Tonda is different, but both are astounding daring. The TondaWoodrock and the Tonda Woodstock feature the guitar on their dials, with either the Union Jack or the US Stars and Stripes in the background. The tourbillon escapement of the exceptional Parmigiani movement is the guitar’s sound box.

IWC Ingenieur watches performance engineering

IWC Schaffhausen focuses on its new line with the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula OneTM Team, so it’s completely remodelled2013 Ingenieur watch collection. For the new collection, IWC’s design engineers took their inspiration from Formula OneTM. Materials typically used in motorsport, such as carbon fibre, ceramic and titanium, are the hallmarks of a new design line in the Ingenieur watch family. The 2013 Ingenieur watch collection comes to the grid with a host of new features. Pole position has to go to the spectacular Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon in its platinum and ceramic case. Its patented constant-force mechanism is integrated in the tourbillon and guarantees an extremely precise rate. Another model guaranteed a place at the front of the grid is the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month with its case made of titanium aluminide, perpetual calendar and digital date display.

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