Interviews

Exclusive interview with Mr. Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer

1. How do you describe Carl F. Bucherer performance and results in 2011? What are the indications for this year?

Carl F. Bucherer is very proud to announce we have had the best year since the inception of the company. But for me as the CEO, even more important we accomplished the best bottom line result ever. This is a direct result of much implementation, growth and strategy which was executed in the past 2 years and the hard work of a dedicated and strong team. Henceforth, we are continuing at full speed and already look forward to the year 2013. The indications for this year are absolutely promising.

2. Carl F. Bucherer women’s watches make up 30 percent of your sales as compared to 70 percent by men’s watches, are there any plans to balance both sales?

All I can say at this point is that 2013 will be a major milestone in the history of ladies watches for Carl F. Bucherer. The first own produced Bucherer watch was a women’s classic art deco piece designed and crafted by Mr. Bucherer in 1919. But it’s no secret that in the last 10 years the company has vastly invested into its manufacturing facilities with focus on technology and development of our very own caliber – like the Manufacture caliber CFB A1000 and its functional modules CFB A1001 to CFB A1004!  Production of ambitious mechanical watches such as the ManeroChronoPerpetual with correction-free indication of the date, day of the week, month and moon phase, which remains a technical challenge that can be met by only a handful of watchmakers. The mechanism recognizes the different lengths of the months and knows when the next leap year is approaching. Also our PatraviTravelTecFourX. This dynamic timepiece features a combination of 4 exclusive materials: palladium, ceramic, rubber and titanium. The intricate skeletonized dial features three time zones and has chronograph, hour, minute and small seconds hands as well as a date display. The unique integration of movement and case calls for watchmaking skills at the highest possible level. With these accomplishments, the outstanding team of watch makers at Carl F. Bucherer and current infrastructure we have set a goal in the last years to develop something of superb quality, technical engineering and unique design to introduce for ladies after this year. I’d like to let this be a surprise!

3. How would you explain the demure positioning of the new Manero and Adamavi models introduced in 2012?

The classical look has been an industry trend in the last few years. The consumer demand is one primary cause of the product offering in any given year. Certainly, this had also to do with financial global conditions which affect purchasing power, a behavior perception demanding increased value for the money and even the request for traditional designs which show to be timeless.

4. You have always stressed about the importance of binding to the brand’s DNA, why is that? And what is Carl F. Bucherer DNA?

The DNA of Carl F. Bucherer = True heritage, tradition and innovation since 1888, until today, in the history of Swiss watch manufacturing.

The history of Bucherer dates back to 1888, when Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first watch retail business in Lucerne, Switzerland. The company has remained in the family to this day and is now owned by the third-generation sole shareholder, Jorg G. Bucherer, the founder’s grandson. In 1919, the company embarked on the production of top-quality timepieces under the Bucherer brand name, upholding all that is best in the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Repositioned under the name Carl F. Bucherer in 2001, the independent brand has blazed its own trail by manufacturing fine watches featuring highly sophisticated complications.

5. Which of your models are the most popular in the Middle East?

Classical watches, especially the models of the Manero line which demonstrates very impressively the craftsmanship involved in watchmaking. The name of the family likewise derives from the Latin word manuaria, which means literally "that which is guided by hand”. All the Manero models represent the traditional and consummate craftsmanship for which the Lucerne-based watch brand is renowned. Another top seller in the Middle East is the unique Patravi TravelTec. An amazing and powerful chronograph showing three time zones, date indication and it is equipped with our automatic movement CFB 1901.1.

6. Do you have any expansion plans for the Carl F. Bucherer boutiques?

Yes, our retail roll-out with self standing stores in major cities include the prestigious 888 building in Ginza,Tokyo which we opened in by the end of last year, is important to us. However, most significantly is to work with the best and right partner of the region.  As we do today in the Middle East! This entire region is crucial for the further development of Carl F. Bucherer.

7. Carl F. Bucherer watches are available in UAE, Bahrain, Qatar, Kuwait, Oman, what about Saudi Arabia, Lebanon Jordan, and Syria?

As already mentioned, we are of course ready to expand into these countries. It will be most pleasing and prosperous. We are achieving greatest results in the countries where we distribute, so I don’t see a reason why not to expand further.

8. Carl F. Bucherer is still a family owned independent company, how do you feel about that and what are the challenges it sets before you?

Our group is a fully integrated business structure, from the bottom up, which is the biggest asset any brand can have. It’s this unique structure as an independent in the watch industry today that sets the brand apart and will ultimately be able to stand up to industry challenges. On top it is my very own personal pleasure and honor to be able to work with Mr. Jorg G. Bucherer.

Market News

Swiss watch exports rise 16 percent in H1 of 2012

According to the latest figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Swiss watch exports continued their strong growth in the first half of this year, building on the excellent results for 2011. The total value of exports was 10.1 billion Swiss francs (the first time that the 10-billion mark has been reached by the middle of the year), which represents and increase of 16.4 per cent over the same period last year. With steady growth recorded in each of the first six months of the year, April was the only month that did not see double-digit growth (+ 8.5 per cent). Exports showed no sign of slowing down with the last month on record, June, producing the best performance of the year so far with an upswing of 21.7 per cent.

Middle East luxury market to grow 15 percent this year

According to a recent study “LUXURY Goods Worldwide Market Study” by Bain & Company, the luxury market in the Middle East will grow by 15 percent in 2012, leading the strong performance of the global luxury market. Cyrille Fabre, Bain & Company partner said: “The Middle East remains a crucial component in the sustained growth of the global luxury market. The region has opened exciting growth possibilities for key industry players and continues to be a major destination for a wide range of luxury brands. Bain’s latest Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study reaffirms the robust shape of the global luxury market and likewise underlines the huge growth potential of the Middle East region.”

Swatch Group posts Double-Digit Growth in both Sales and Profit

The Swatch Group, with its 19 brands, grew by +14.4 percent, generating gross sales of CHF 3 847 million in the first half of 2012. Again, this very positive, continued growth spanned all major regions and price segments. Key contributory factors included a combination of strong brands and expansion of the distribution and retail network, as well as the good performance of the Production segment, which posted a +23.2% jump in gross sales. Operating profit grew by +19.4% to CHF 903 million, and net income increased by +25.0% to CHF 724 million. Despite higher taxes paid and strategic increases in inventory levels, the Group generated total operating cash flow of CHF 256 million in the first half of 2012.

OMEGA launches 2012 Olympic activities with press conference

OMEGA, the Official Timekeeper of the London 2012 Olympic Games, celebrated the beginning of its Games-related activities with a press conference at the brand’s boutique at the Westfield Stratford Mall adjacent to Olympic Park. Dr. Jacques Rogge, President of the International Olympic Committee, Nick Hayek, the CEO of the Swatch Group, Stephen Urquhart, the President of OMEGA and Peter Hurzeler, OMEGA Timing Board member addressed members of the international media and expressed their enthusiasm about the Games that will begin on Friday with a lavish Opening Ceremony.

Company News

BOVET supports the Gstaad Menuhin Festival

The House of BOVET 1822 supports the Gstaad Menuhin Festival from 20 July to 8 September. Classical music and fine watchmaking share many values in common. In addition to their exemplary rhythmical regularity, numerous BOVET timepieces also provide musical accompaniments, as in the case of the minute-repeater. In such timepieces, crafted by virtuoso artisans of BOVET 1822, the movements strike the hours, quarters and minutes on request, on gongs tuned by watchmakers to the exact frequency after being shaped to obtain a crystal-clear sonority.

Girard-Perregaux young watchmakers’ tour in Paris

The third stop on the Young Watchmakers Tour will take place in Paris, in the salerooms of the illustrious auction house Christie’s, at 9 Avenue Matignon, from August 29 to September 5, 2012. Located in the very heart of the prestigious district of antique-dealers, grand hotels and art galleries in the city's Rive Droite, this former mansion of the Callot sisters, famous fashion designers at the beginning of the 20th century, is the ideal location for hosting this magnificent watchmaking odyssey. The Young Watchmakers' Tour's week in Paris will revolve around three major themes: Tradition, Expertise and New Faces.

Amit Dhamani appointed as Governor of GIA

Amit Dhamani, CEO and managing director of Dhamani Jewels Group based in the UAE has recently appointed as Board of Governors of GIA. Amit Dhamani is the only member of the Middle East jewelry industry to have ever been appointed to the GIA Board. GIA is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology.

Blacksand boat made it up to first position within the half of the Miami Race

During the Miami Race on 15 July, Blacksand boat came from behind to the front. As the team made it up to first position with half the race to go, a part failed in the transmission portion of the motor causing the team to retire from the race. The team is looking forward to the next race to be held in Indiana in three weeks.

Bremont celebrates its boutique launch in Mayfair, London

On 17th July 2012, British watch brand Bremont hosted an event to celebrate the launch of their flagship Mayfair boutique which is located on South Audley Street, London. Guests in attendance included Orlando Bloom, Graham Bell, Ben Saunders, Jack Savoretti as well as Humphrey Berney and Ollie Baines from the band Blake. All were seen wearing Bremont watches.

Piaget celebrates amfaR Dinner in Paris

2012 marks the third year of Piaget’s partnership with amfAR and its valuable fundraising efforts for HIV/AIDS research programs. An A-list crowd gathered at the legendary Parisian restaurant, Maxim’s, for the Piaget sponsored amfAR Inspiration Dinner in Paris.  The black-tie affair honored Robert Duffy of Marc Jacobs International with the Piaget Award of Inspiration for his style and commitment to the fight against AIDS.

Richard Mille announces Manchester City Football Club Partnership

Richard Mille has recently announced a new partnership with Manchester City Football Club.  The deal, which is the first of its kind for City, will see the exclusive Swiss watch manufacturer become the Club’s Official Timing Partner. As part of the brand’s commitment to local communities, Richard Mille has also offered to donate a unique timepiece to auction on behalf of the club’s charitable association ‘City in the Community’. The money raised will go towards improving the lives of local children, helping them to achieve their goals and exceed their potential through sport and education.

Ritmo partners with Russia France Racing

Ritmo Mundo has announced its new partnership with team Russia France Racing (RFR).  This is RITMO’s first opportunity to enter into the competitive world of European racing.  The first of many memorable events took place last weekend at the Moscow Raceway for the 2012 World Series by Renault Russian Formula.  The energy buzzed around two RITMO sponsored drivers, Mikhail Aleshin, former 2010 World Series by Renault Champion and Anton Nebylitskiy. The RFR team and drivers proudly wore their RITMO Persepolis and IndyCar time pieces both on and off the track during the weekend events.   

Edox stands by Christian Redl

Christian Redl, extreme freediver and holder of the world record for diving under ice with a depth of 200 feet, has decided to test his limits once again. Placing his fantastic experience of extreme freediving at the service of science, Christian Redl has joined the Gokyo project, which will reach its culmination from 6 to 27 October 2012. The six 203 feet depth Gokyo Lakes are situated in Nepal at an altitude of between 15'400 and 16'900 feet and are the world's highest freshwater lake system. More than ever, Christian Redl needs a diver's working tool to achieve success in his Gokyo project. The new Edox Iceman II Limited Edition gives him reliability and technical prowess, as well as a modern and sporty design.

Product Launch

Hublot unveils two limited edition watches as a tribute to the 50th Anniversary of the Costa Smeralda

On the evening of July 16th, during the amazing party organized by the famous Cala Di Volpe Starwood Hotel, Elton John entertained guests with a special performance. On the terrace of the Bar Pontile, Hublot unveiled the two sparkling and vibrant limited edition watches as a tribute to the anniversary of the iconic marina: the Big Bang Costa Smeralda for ladies and the King Power Costa Smeralda for gentlemen.

Damiani unveils its 2012 Masterpieces collections in Paris

Maison Damiani chose 5 July, the final day of Haute Couture Week, to unveil its “2012 Masterpieces” collections in Paris. Giorgio Damiani, vice-chairman of the Damiani Group, made a special trip from Milan to present his firm’s new collections of fine jewellery, jewellery and watches to the press. The creations of the leading Italian jewellery group were exhibited at the Damiani boutique in the Place Vendome.

Harry Winston at Biennale des Antiquaires

Chosen for their intrinsic beauty, the one-of-a-kind creations presented at the XXVI Biennale des Antiquaires, to be held in Paris from September 14-23, pay eloquent tribute to the expertise of the man known as “The King of Diamonds”. Among the most spectacular creations that will be traveling to Paris in September from the legendary workshops on New York’s Fifth Avenue is a new High Jewelry collection dedicated to nature’s most precious elements. Unique in its kind and to be exclusively unveiled at the Biennale des Antiquaires, this collection heralds a new chapter in the history of Harry Winston with extraordinary, newly imagined designs.

Mouawad launches the new Hilal Collection

Mouawad celebrates the holy month of Ramadan with the launch of the Hilal collection across all its Middle Eastern boutiques. The new collection comprises hand-crafted pendants in 18K white gold with precious gemstones that feature iconic Islamic amulets - the perfect accessory for those customers that wish to celebrate their faith with an extraordinary and contemporary signature design.

Faberge launches Karenina Collection

Faberge, legendary jeweller to the Russian Imperial court, introduces Karenina – a capsule collection of sublimely crafted designs inspired by the heroine of Leo Tolstoy's masterpiece, Anna Karenina. An opal pendant, suspended from a white gold chain is at the heart of the collection, embellished with delicate diamond clusters encircling a magnificent rose-cut diamond. Translucent white opal earrings complement the set, evoking the soft colours of moonlight and the shimmering satin gowns worn at the grand balls.

RJ-Romain Jerome space invaders take over Colette in Paris

After a first raid last year, the SPACE INVADERS^® have once again landed our daily watchmaking lives. In cooperation with TAITO Corporation, RJ-Romain Jerome serves as a willing accomplice in this new invasion. First target: colette, in Paris. On that occasion, the pixelated figures have put on the emblematic blue color of the store for a limited edition of eight pieces, only available in the trendy boutique. The SPACE INVADERS are available in four other colors (red, green, purple and yellow) and have started their incursion in all RJ-Romain Jerome points of sale worldwide.

The Bichrono Tech by deLaCour

The Bichrono Tech hosts the strongest embodiment for the most iconic deLaCour movements. Two movements dressed with a bolder and more technical dial, where an intricate filigree of steel wires intertwines in the background, while its foreground accentuates the summit and the base of this three-dimensional armor. The heart of the Bichrono Tech beats at 28.800 vibrations per hour, and each one of its emblematic movements is equipped with a blue rotor.

Safari RL67 Chronograph by Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren has adapted a treatment used in traditional gun making and brought it to a level that exceeds today’s watchmaking requirements and constraints. Individually handcrafted, high-precision tools are used in the multistep process that gives the timepiece its distinctive face. Each component of the watch - from the case and bezel to the crown, buckle, pushers and screws - is successively sandblasted, micro-blasted, brushed, polished and chamfered. Gunmetaling offers the ability to obtain both satin and matte effects, with subtle shading from cloudy anthracite to darkened black.

Fine Arabian Stallions Timed by GRIEB & BENZINGER

In order to realize the wish of a watch collector and horse enthusiast from the Arabian region, GRIEB & BENZINGER created the POLARIS from 2011’s BOUTIQUE Collection in solid white gold and palladium alloy. A white-gold-and-honey-brown combination allowed GRIEB & BENZINGER to fulfill the wishes of the client. This watch crafted in the subtle white gold and palladium alloy displays an impressively restrained hand-guilloche bezel and a solid case that simultaneously testifies to the substantial value of this watch.

Issey Miyake's new "W" watch now in the UAE

The Issey Miyake Watch Project has been developing innovative watch designs by paring with leading design pioneers and the latest series follows suit by offering “W”; a new chronograph watch created through collaboration with the renowned car designer, Satoshi Wada. Part of the cutting edge creative team at leading German automotive giant Audi AG, Satoshi Wada has developed a new chronograph watch that reflects the minimalistic style of Japanese traditional arts and the cutting edge precision of German design. The timepiece is available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons outlets across the UAE.

88 RUE DU RHONE unveils its very first campaign

88 RUE DU RHONE, a new watch brand has unveiled its very first campaign during its exclusive London launch this month. The New brand’s launch demanded a campaign capable of displaying all the wealth of its unique universe. Of course, Geneva’s sublime lakeside setting had to be a main feature. However, in this context, it has been transformed by the city’s unreal architecture in the Background and the dusky twilight.

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