Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve - Day 3

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Michel Parmigiani, President, Parmigiani Fleurier: We Aim to Remain Present and Active on Strategic Markets

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What are your brand’s “star” novelties for the SIHH 2016?

To mark its 20th anniversary, Parmigiani Fleurier is unveiling the Chronor, its new integrated chronograph movement, a feat of watchmaking that very few of today's manufactures are capable of achieving. 
Since the very start of our watchmaking adventure, the idea of creating an integrated Chronograph has always been close to my heart. This dream became a reality on the eve of our 20th anniversary, and this is no coincidence – it is a reflection of our development as a manufacture. To successfully create an integrated chronograph, one must first master its imposing, meticulous assembly of constituent parts; not just their manufacture, but also their operation and function at the heart of a calibre; one must appreciate both their limits and potential. For this reason, an integrated chronograph is necessarily the work of an experienced manufacture. The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire is a reflection of 20 years of work.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2016?

Our main goal during SIHH is to mark our territory and to always be a reference in the Haute Horlogerie field. 

What are the foreseen trends and directions with watches in 2016?

This upcoming year will be difficult, due to the political and economical changes our world is facing. Nevertheless, the legitimate brands will resist the crisis and therefore this year more than ever we will focus on our roots, emphasizing our independence and unique timepieces. We will also adapt our production according to the actual demand. 

When would we expect the SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East?

Around spring time 2016

How is your brand faring in the Middle East?

Our brand awareness and overall visibility have largely improved since the establishment of our subsidiary in Dubai in January 2014. We have invested a lot to be present on many fronts, from outdoor advertising to events and sponsorships. We were also delighted to host our first collectors’ gathering with Arabian Watches and Jewellery & the Arab Watch Guide. Meeting so many of the UAE’s watch enthusiasts has been enlightening for us as a brand, and one of our priorities for 2016 will be to organise more of these across the GCC, hand in hand with our retail partners but also in countries where our retail presence is not as preeminent. What we aim for is to deliver something as unique and exclusive as our know-how and manufacturing skills, to establish our name in the Middle East. We aim to deliver a dream, we can pretty much deliver anything that our customers are wishing for in a watch. 

Do you propose to open more independent boutiques in the Middle East?

We are mostly looking into enhancing our current retail presence via our existing retail partners, and also to enlist more retailers, especially in critical countries like Saudi Arabia or Kuwait, where we have not really established a strong presence yet. 

Describe your relationship with collectors in the Middle East.

It is still a young relationship, but we are certainly planning on creating a stronger bond with all our collectors in 2016, as we are planning more meetings, and looking into new opportunities to showcase unique models and our haute horlogerie know-how across the GCC.

What are your brands priorities for 2016?

As mentioned before, our brand’s fundamentals will be this year’s focus and we will of course celebrate our anniversary by launching exceptional timepieces thanks to our extensive experience. 

Did your export figures increase in the Middle East for 2015?

Last October, Bloomberg was reporting that the Swiss watch exports had their biggest decline in six years, led by a 39 percent slump in shipments to Hong Kong, the industry’s largest market. 
Similarly, your magazine also reported on the latest figures communicated by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry “FH”, whereby Swiss watch exports were said to slip 12.3% year on year to $2 billion (CHF 2 billion) in October and exports to key consumer markets dropped substantially, with UAE dropped by 84.7%, Saudi Arabia down 36.4%, Kuwait dropped by 13.4%, Qatar down by 14.2%.
Starting off with the spike in value of the Swiss franc, it is fair to say that 2015 has been a challenging year for high-end Swiss watchmaking in the Middle East, also because of the unique ties the region shares with other parts of the world, including Russia or China, where macro-economic conditions have been less than enticing lately when it comes to luxury purchases and gifting. 
Having said this, and considering that I started my watchmaking workshop amidst the huge Swiss watchmaking quartz crisis in 1976, I am feeling confident that this period will come to an end, just as the quartz crisis did 40 years ago. This is also why, as a brand, we aim to remain present and active on strategic markets and geographical areas, including the Middle East, in order to stay ahead of the curve when the market turns a corner and hits a high again.

Anything you wish to add?

We are looking forward to developing stronger ties with the Middle East, through a mutually enriching relationship with Arabian Watches and Jewellery and its unique network of partners and collectors

 
 
 

Product Launch

 

LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR

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The LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR combines two classic complications with the iconic design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous watch family. The calendar consists of a Lange outsize date, retrograde day-of-the-week and leap-year displays and a peripheral month ring. All of the perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously. The mechanism is designed in such a way that it must be advanced only by one day in the year 2100. And the moon-phase display, located inside the subsidiary seconds dial, will even run true for 122.6 years before it needs to be corrected by one day.

 

Richard Mille 50-02 Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph

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The RM 50-02 Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph ACJ, created by Airbus Corporate Jets and Richard Mille, an exceptional timepiece centred on a collective desire to create something truly unique, focused on high performance, precision and technology. According to Richard Mille and ACJ, the companies spent about two years working on the Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph limited edition watch. Very light on the wrist in mostly titanium and some alloy, the Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph is 42.70mm wide and 50.10mm tall by 16.50mm thick. Another distinctive element is the white ceramic bezel plate.

 

IWC Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince”

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The 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection from Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen offers a wide, balanced range of Pilot’s Watches among them the Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar Edition “Le Petit Prince” (Ref. IW502701) have succeeded in uniting the two worlds. They modelled the solid gold rotor at the back of the watch to show the famous image of the little prince standing on his tiny asteroid and regarding the heavens with wide-open eyes. At the same time, he turns on his own axis and provides the power needed by the watch.

 

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage

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The inspiration behind the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition came from an H. Moser pocket watch dating from the late 19th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The case on this model, made from a striking blue, engraved enamel and studded with diamonds, inspired the watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture to reinterpret this watch. Featuring "cloisonné" enamel on a case with two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques as well as "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, in association with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold. The beating heart of this exceptional timepiece is the high-performance HMC 341 calibre. Made from 18-carat solid gold, this movement is set with two diamond end-stones. It guarantees the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition a minimum 7-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel. Representing the culmination of nearly 200 years of history, the in-house HMC 341 calibre can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day via the crown.

 

“Limelight Stella” Piaget’s First Ladies’ Complication

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Designed and crafted in Piaget’s workshops in La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva, the “Limelight Stella” has an astronomical moon phase — a traditional complication that tracks the lunar cycle. Driven by a new mechanical automatic movement, this timepiece has hour, minute and second hands on a main dial that’s home to a cutaway moon-phase window. This takes the form of a fan-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock, lined with 14 brilliant-cut diamonds. The pink gold model comes with a refined polished bezel or a bezel set with 126 diamonds. The white gold model has a diamond-set bezel. The Piaget “Limelight Stella” comes with an alligator leather strap.

 

Urwerk EMC Time Hunter

The Urwerk EMC Time Hunter, the brand takes its self-designated responsibility as the architects of eccentricity to a different level that involves being the only offering from the brand to have traditional time indication with hour and minute hands. The Urwerk EMC Time Hunter comes in two colour options, each limited to 15 pieces each. The watch is 43mm wide, and 51mm from lug to lug. It stands 15.8mm tall on the wrist and has a sapphire crystal, display case back, and a water resistance of 30 metres. The hours and minutes are displayed via a highly legible dial in the centre of the watch. The most remarkable thing about this element of the watch is how thoroughly "normal" it is in comparison with some of Urwerk's more quirky displays.

 
 
 
 

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