Exclusive interview with Mr. Carlos Rosillo, CEO of Bell & Ross; Richemont overall sales up 4 per cent in the five month period of 2015

Market Report

Exclusive interview with Mr. Carlos Rosillo, CEO of Bell & Ross

What makes Bell & Ross unique?

We are positioned on the professional and technical watches segment where our iconic and timeless Instrument model is ranked as the key model. Our watches demonstrate a unique watch-making expertise by satisfying the strictest military requirements. We built our timepieces reputation on four leading principles: legibility, water-resistance, functionality and precision.

Could you please briefly enumerate the 4 design principles of Bell & Ross?

To design and manufacture the watches, we have to adhere to precise specifications, focusing above all on the needs and requirements of professional users.

Legibility, as our timepieces reproduce the clear visual indicators found on aircraft control instruments.

Functionality is key, and minimalism— sacrificing the simply ornamental and superfluous in favor of the essential— is vital for the performance of our watches. We are passionate about functionalism design and this is the pure essence of our brand: function takes precedence over design. The essential is never compromised by the superfluous.

Precision, because our mechanical movements are designed, manufactured and assembled in Switzerland where they are given high precision adjustement.

Reliability: Bell & Ross holds the world water-resistant record (Guinness Book) with its Hydro Challenger model. We have also been chosen over the years by many air, land and naval forces in an incomparable recognition of the brand technical expertise and the quality of its watches, which are perfect for professional use.

Could you please tell us about some of the newest Bell & Ross releases?

This year does not lack key stories as we are celebrating in 2015 the 10th anniversary of our iconic timepiece, the BR01 or the simple ideas to turn a cockpit instrument panel clock into a wrist watch. It takes its inspiration from the aeronautic instrumentation, an absolute reference as far as readability, reliability and performance are concerned. The BR 01 has shaken up the classic codes of luxury watches and asserted itself as our worldwide best-seller. Engraved and numbered, this 10 years edition limited to 500 watches is the ultimate expression of the evolution and sports a high-tech ceramic case and an embossed logo feature on the dial.

After a successful 1st collaboration with Dassault Aviation, we’re joining forces once again to celebrate the most successful multi-role fighter aircraft on the market: the Rafale through a special project that will be launch next June. Adopting the distinctive design features of this iconic fighter aircraft, the BR03-94 chronograph sporting the Rafale colours asserts a strong identity from the very first glance.

Last but not least, the new Vintage WW1 Edicion Limitada, a watch’s collector dedicated to cigar aficionados. I like the idea of capturing the art of enjoying exceptional moments and this watch is the perfect illustration thanks to its 5-day power reserve. All the details and high-end finishes such as the Côtes de Genève and blued screws complete the aesthetic of the mechanism within a design that skillfully combines the worlds of watchmaking and cigars.

And as I said previously, we are also pursuing our worldwide strategy with the opening of our new store in London, last June, which is also a way for us to reach the Middle-Eastern clientele, one of our key targets. We want our potential customers to experience Bell & Ross fully and have the chance to discover the full collection in an appropriate environment, and be immersed in our DNA.

In your opinion, why would anyone want to consider a Bell & Ross watch when there are other choices?

We are part of the top ten worldwide high level watches for professionals. We have been faithful to our original idea and our watches today reflect perfectly the world of pilots and professionals. We are well-known for the originality, the singularity of our products and are positioned on the professional and technical watches segment, where our iconic and timeless Instrument model is ranked as the key model. When wearing a BR01 or BR03, you feel like having a piece of cockpit on your wrist, which it makes people dream.

Moreover, in the luxury world, there is a constant quest for perfection, the guarantee to get the perfect piece. For this reason, we fabricate in the Swiss manufacture, Châtelain at La Chaux-de-Fonds, in Switzerland.

Besides, in the permanent aim to offer the best service to our clients, Bell&Ross’ e-Boutique will give customers the possibility to purchase 24/7 but also to provide presence in geographical zones that are not covered by our retail network.

Do you think Bell & Ross offers a collector or investor the chance to have strong returns in the future?

I think that with the launch in 2005 of the BR 01 square case watch that became our iconic timepiece lots of our customers became collectors. Our impactful limited editions like the BR01 Instruments, the BR01 Skull Bronze but also our Vintage WW1 Jumping Hours have contributed to increase the number of collectors, all these models being sold out in no time.

But the watch that embodies all the Bell & Ross know-how in watchmaking is the new BR-X1 TOURBILLON in Titanium or Pink Gold versions. This exclusive timepiece is the proof of our watchmakers’ excellence as it incorporates three watchmaking complications: a flying tourbillon, a monopusher chronograph, and a power reserve indicator.

In the same perspective, on the occasion of Only Watch, the 6th edition of the biannual charity auction of unique timepieces, in aid of research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, held in Geneva in November 2015, Bell & Ross will offer the one of a kind BR 01 SKULL BRONZE TOURBILLON. This timepiece combines the sophistication of an exceptional mechanical movement, the timeless beauty of a case that seems to have materialized from the past, and the provocative, symbolic resonance of the skull.

At Bell & Ross we always search to produce high quality, perfectly reliable and very impactful timepieces in line with our four creation principles: legibility, precision, functionality and water resistance, that became our DNA. It is very important as well to accompany our customers with high quality services in harmony with the brand’s universe.

Globally, which are the biggest markets for Bell & Ross? How many watches do Bell & Ross produce a year?

Our number 1 area is Europe but still, we manage a mix rather well balanced between Europe, the Americas, and Asia.

France and the USA are two historical markets. We have an office and a full sales and marketing team in those two markets, which is very helpful. We have also established an office in UK and Spain to accompany the development of those two European markets.

How significant is the Middle East as a retail market for Bell & Ross?

The Middle East is a strategic market with a great potential and we are still building and developing the market. We feel like there is a real fit with the brand in this region, especially with our 2015 new products pleasing both the masculine and feminine clientele.

How is Bell & Ross represented across the Middle East? Do you anticipate opening more independent, stand-alone boutiques in the region?

Bell & Ross is present in each country of the GCC through the most prestigious watch retailers.

We also have 2 stand-alone Boutiques: one in Dubai (Burjuman) and one in Jeddah (Boulevard Mall)

In the near future, we plan to open more Boutiques in UAE and KSA.

How do you manage to compete with all the luxury brands available in the market?

By establishing the positioning of the brand in the military and aviation field on this market too (through partnerships like the Dubai Airshow for instance). Indeed, we do have a global approach instead of a local approach.

What is the percentage of Bell & Ross women watches produced when compared to the masculine watches introduced? Do you intend to keep it the same?

We surely are a masculine brand but when we’ve designed the BRS collection in 2008, we had in mind women’s growing interest for our brand. Despite their feminine appearance, all the Bell & Ross guidelines were respected. Today, it represents around 20% of the Aviation square watches.

This year, given the success of the BRS line, we wanted to give it a new lease of life. We are launching a new timepiece, the BRS Grey Camouflage. A timepiece that will be both very feminine but at the same time, a singular creation linked with the brand’s DNA and philosophy.

Also, the other ceramic BRS versions have been restyled: a new, more complex structure for the ceramic case, white numerals replaced by metal appliqués, a smooth crown for greater comfort, and a new, more feminine satin strap.

Among your entire collection of Bell & Ross timepieces, what is your favorite Bell & Ross watch?

I am passionate about our WW1 Jumping Hour, one of our timepieces that embodies our expertise in watchmaking and whose movement we created in collaboration with the Swiss watchmaker Vincent Calabrese. And in this continuity, the WW1 Edicion Limitada that we launched in Basel this year.

We have learned that you are also an intimate watch collector, can you please tell us about your collection and your favorite time piece as well as the newest one that was added to your collection.

Yes you are right I am a watch enthusiast. For my Communion I’ve received a Kelton, but my first important watch that I still have is my grandfather’s Jaeger-LeCoultre from the 30’s that I received for my 18th anniversary. It is actually the model that inspired the Reverso years later. I had also watches from other brands like Omega or Rolex but today I find in my own brand everything that I want. However I do have a certain interest for few brands like Lange & Söhne, François-Paul Journe or Jaquet Droz.

What is your opinion about smart watches or wearable devices? Do you have any intentions to develop a Bell & Ross smart watch?

We are talking about 2 different values. It is like confronting the ‘Carpe Diem’ maxim to the ‘Tempus Fugit’ one. Beyond the financial aspect, it is much more a philosophical ground for thought to me, between the digital world and the craftsmanship sphere.

Today fine Swiss watches make up 2.5% of the market volume but 54% of the market value.

The fine Swiss watches market is about innovation, passion, exclusivity, eternity while the connected watches world is more about innovation, technology and is temporary.

Mechanical watches are part of the concept of longevity, gain in value over time, pass down to the next generation and still have a bright future ahead of them.

We must consider the connected watch as a complementary product to the traditional timepieces. There is room for two after all!

Market News

Richemont overall sales up 4 per cent in the five month period of 2015

Sales in the Americas rose by 2 percent at constant exchange rates for Richemont in the five-month period ended Aug. 31, with Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels performing “exceptionally well” in a volatile environment. Still, the company described sales growth in the region as “subdued,” supported by high jewelry, fashion and accessories, and e-commerce. Richemont, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef as well as a number of other high-end watch brands, said Wednesday that overall sales for the period increased 4 percent. Sales performances by region were mixed, with double-digit increases in Europe and Japan offsetting decreases in Asia Pacific and soft demand in the Americas and the Middle East.

UAE to become Kimberley Process (KP) Chair in 2016

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) has become the first Arab country to take up the position of Kimberley Process (KP) chair, effective in 2016. The Dubai Multi Commodity Centre (DMCC) and the UAE Economic Ministry’s authority for the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme welcomed the appointment, which was confirmed by a vote. According to a DMCC statement, the UAE will use this opportunity to focus on the areas with the greatest impact on the growth and development of the diamond industry. These areas include expanding the reach of the KP and bringing the flow of conflict diamonds to an end globally, while strengthening ties between the three pillars of the KP (government, industry and civil society). The UAE is also expected to emphasize the importance of providing assistance to newly admitted countries with technical matters, training and consensus building.

GCC economies won't slide on falling oil price

According to a report, GCC economies are expected to be less affected by plunging oil prices due to higher output in 2015. Also there would be a positive impact of counter-cyclical fiscal policies adopted to support economic activities the Arab Monetary Fund's "Arab Economic Outlook Report" said which contains updated forecasts of economic growth and inflation for Arab countries in 2015 and 2016. The report said growth rate of GCC economies is forecasted at three per cent in 2015 compared to 3.4 per cent in 2014. On the other hand GDP of other Arab oil-exporting countries except Algeria is anticipated to contract in 2015 reflecting the impact of declining oil prices on the economies of these countries which will be compounded by the effects of internal developments.

Company News

Mouawad holds a grand anniversary celebration in Lebanon

Grand Hills Hotel in Broumana, Lebanon was the stylish setting for a remarkable and glittering celebration held on September 26th. Lebanon’s A-list gathered for a memorable evening to celebrate the 125th anniversary of legendary diamond house, Mouawad, and to mark the reopening of the Grand Hills Collection Hotel and Spa under the Luxury Collection. VIPs, top influencers, bloggers and media were present as Mouawad’s three co-guardians, the fourth generation brothers Fred, Pascal and Alain Mouawad recounted the brand’s distinguished history spanning over 125 years. They described its growth from humble beginnings in 1890 until the present day, with the company now considered one of the world’s most prominent diamond houses.

Chopard Boutique in Salhiya Kuwait expands with new VIP Floor

Chopard Boutique located in the renowned Salhiya Complex in Kuwait has gained an additional floor to complement its existing area. Trafalgar Company, Chopard partner and exclusive distributor in Kuwait has decided to expand the current Boutique to accommodate further its guests with the creation of a private VIP floor. Chopard guests will be able to enjoy, in this private and exclusive area, an array of activities for ladies and gentlemen while discovering the beauty of Chopard’s jewelry and timepieces creations.

New trainee year at A. Lange & Söhne

On 26 August 2015, A. Lange & Söhne’s ultramodern new manufactory building was inaugurated in the presence of German Chancellor Angela Merkel. Two days earlier, Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid welcomed the 21 new apprentices who had enrolled to train as watchmakers or toolmakers. The new manufactory building will be the workplace for the ten young women and eleven young men who have just embarked on their three-year training period at the Lange Watchmaking School. Overall, A. Lange & Söhne is currently mentoring 61 trainees, of whom 55 in watchmaking and six in toolmaking.

de GRISOGONO at Opera National de Paris

It marks the start of the season, gathers all the artists of the Paris Opera & Ballet – the Ballet, the Ballet School and the Orchestra – under the leadership of Benjamin Millepied. “It” is the Opening Gala at the Paris Opera & Ballet, with which de GRISOGONO is associating in presenting a collection presenting its most iconic creations united under the evocative name OPERA. The OPERA collection revealed its exquisite beauty surrounded by a shower of ballet étoiles with their supremely elegant bearing and graceful port de bras. Amid a wealth of variations, arabesque and adagio passages, the OPERA collection combines diamonds, turquoises, rubies, sapphires and countless other subtle nuances.

Richard Mille boutique re-opens in Harrods Fine Watch Room

Richard Mille has announced the re-opening of its boutique located in the prestigious Harrods Fine Watch Room. The boutique has been increased by a third of its original size, creating a luxurious space in which clients can experience the brands new global design concept. The boutique is beautifully finished with noble materials and exotic woods set behind ultramodern cracked glass panels to bring a synergy between traditional and modern materials. An exquisite range of watches are displayed, from highly rare and complicated tourbillion timepieces to the sports watches, limited editions and a full women’s collection.

Nicole Kidman officially opens OMEGA’s “Her Time” Exhibition in Milan

With stunning vintage timepieces on display, as well as some timeless advertising, the exhibition proudly displays OMEGA’s enduring commitment to women over the past 100 years. Known for her beauty, passion and incredible on-screen success, OMEGA brand ambassador Nicole Kidman was the perfect candidate to officially open OMEGA’s celebratory exhibition in Milan entitled “Her Time”. Together with OMEGA president Stephen Urquhart, the Oscar-winning actress was the first person to explore the wonderful items on display at La Triennale di Milano, covering more than 100 years of OMEGA’s devotion to ladies’ watchmaking.

Two KERBEDANZ unique pieces acquired by a collector

The two KERBEDANZ minute repeaters, the mother of all horological complications, have just been acquired by a collector. These two pieces also have animations. They represent a distillate of extreme horological arts. La Fabrique du Temps and Concepto, two movement manufacturers among the most sought-after by the various haute horlogerie brands, worked on the extraordinary KRB-05, the KERBEDANZ caliber inhabiting the two Quintums. It's a 29-jewel movement, manually wound, with Côtes de Genève decoration. It boasts a power reserve of one hundred hours, and beats at 21,600 vph using an escapement wheel and pallets made of silicon.

Eterna Movement SA is showcased on the World Wide Web for the first time

Now Eterna Movement SA has a presence on the World Wide Web for the first time. When the new page at www.eterna-movement.com is accessed, the first thing to catch the eye is the logo with the five balls which, as with affiliate company Eterna SA, calls to mind the ground-breaking development of the ball-bearing mounted rotor. Subsequently, it becomes evident that the website was conceived in the spirit of the brand's claim of "advanced technology" – it is modern, has a clear content structure, a straightforward design and is extremely user-friendly.

Product Launch

BOVET unveils the New 19 Thirty Collection

Much more than a new model, Pascal Raffy, owner of BOVET 1822 and DIMIER 1738, has decided to unveil an entire new collection for the second half of 2015. The 19Thirty Collection borrows the numbers and hands from the “easel” chronometer and combines them with pared-down aesthetics to showcase the chronometric performance and haute horlogerie finishes of each timepiece. The collection is characterized by two distinct cases: the Fleurier case, whose crown and bow at 12 o’clock recall the origins of BOVET, and the more traditional DIMIER case, with its four horns and a crown positioned at 3 o’clock in an additional nod this important transitional decade.

Franck Muller introduces the Yachting collection

Last March, Franck Muller and the Italian Sea Group announced their partnership to build a new concept of luxury yachts. Only 6 months after this announcement, the two companies driven by the same passion for perfection and innovation are delighted to unveil the first jewel born from this collaboration: the “Franck Muller 55" which was displayed for the first time during the 25e Monaco Yacht Show. On the same occasion, Franck Muller introduces a new line of timepieces dedicated to this exclusive new partnership: the Yachting collection. This collection displays the same refined and slender curves as the yacht while highlighting its high technical character through its mechanism. The line is available in titanium, red gold and stainless steel and is further seen in three variants – classic, chronograph, tourbillon and carrousel.

Bentley GT3 by Breitling

A tribute to the Continental GT3 and Bentley’s motorsport victories, the new Bentley GT3 chronograph fiercely flaunts its sporting nature in this 500-piece limited series with a black titanium case, carbon fibre dial, original twin-counter system and chronometer-certified selfwinding movement. The black titanium case features a blend of sturdiness and lightness, two indispensable qualities in the heat of the action. The carbon fibre dial exudes an ultra-sporty look inspired by racing cars. Clear readings of the finest feats are provided by the chronograph with its innovative display system featuring a 60-minute counter via a central hand (for times of less than an hour) and a combined hour/minute counter at 9 o’clock (for times of an hour or more).

The Alpiner Manufacture with Alpina AL-710 In-House Automatic Movement

Alpina has released a new version of the Alpiner Manufacture that encases the in-house Alpina AL-710 automatic movement. The watch, inspired by a 1950s Alpiner design, maintains the clean lines and practical elements associated with the active brand. The Alpiner Manufacture features a 41.5 mm stainless-steel case with sapphire crystal case back exposing the in-house automatic movement. The dial is a light cream color with applied Arabic numerals, center seconds (with the brand's red triangle icon), and subsidiary dial for date.

Charriol presents St-Tropez 35 mm Collection

For Basel 2015, Charriol released a special new variant of their popular St-Tropez timepiece for women. This larger 35mm size offers a beautiful canvas for special lunar calendar functionality, embellished with a beautiful mother of pearl dial, in tribute to the shimmering lunar mood. The 35mm model comes with a polished bezel engraved with the CHARRIOL lettering and the iconic cable bracelet strap, with a security clasp. These very special new watches, available in steel, yellow or pink-gold plated PVD, offer a light dreamy feel and marry exquisite details with a mystical spirit. An extra special diamond variant is also available, with either full moon diamond bezel or glittering eclipse diamond design.

BRM Chronographes introduces the new V12-44 in celebration of its 10th anniversary

In September 2005, BRM Manufacture launched the first V12-44. The BRM V12-44 range is a true emblem of the manufacture, with its piston shaped case, lugs fitted by screws, extra light hands and dial decorated with race numbers it represents all that BRM holds dear. Today, the V12-44 is BRM’s best selling watch world-wide. This timepiece is actually available in approximately twenty different models and has become entirely customizable due to the BRM configurator offering the possibility to select, compose and assemble the watch of your dreams from over 12 000 possibilities. BRM Chronographes introduced the brand new V12-44 especially designed for this event: The V12-44-GT 10 ANS.

Armani Exchange presents Fall 2015 Watch Collection

This season, Armani Exchange celebrates personal style with a collection of watches that are sophisticated with a youthful bent. Mosaics feature bold geometric patterns in rich hues of blue, green and magenta. The collection offers her 6 colorways and the option of leather or metal straps. With 36 mm dials and a combination of both glitz and mother-of-pearl, Mosaics blends both color and design for a non-traditional statement. The Golden Rule and The New Standard feature stand out styles in gold, black and stainless steel finishes for both him and her. Textured dials, glitz and MOP accents are fresh and set the tone for his or her style.

Vertu launches New Signature Touch Performance and Precision Define Handmade Smartphone

New Signature Touch is the latest, high-performance smartphone from Vertu, the English manufacturer of luxury mobile phones. New Signature Touch balances high performance technology, dedicated services and peerless build quality and materials and boasts Vertu’s most vibrant display ever. This clarity of image is complemented by the extraordinary sound experience featuring Dolby® Digital Plus virtual surround sound. Encased in handcrafted, fine leather and grade 5 titanium, it is Vertu’s highest ever technical performance smartphone. Android 5.1 Lollipop promises improved speed and clarity and Vertu’s full portfolio of services, which comprise Dedicated Concierge as well as Vertu LIFE and Vertu CERTAINTY packages ensure a seamless user experience.

Exhibitions & Events

World's heaviest gold ring to be on display in Sharjah

The Najmat Taiba or Star of Taiba will be the star attraction at the upcoming 39th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show that will be held at Expo Centre Sharjah on October 6, 2015. Made by Taiba Gold & Jewellery of Saudi Arabia, the 58.686 kg gold ring is studded with 5.17 kg of Swarovski stones. It has a certificate from the Guinness Book of World Records and is endorsed by the World Gold Council. Held under the patronage of His Highness Dr. Sheikh Sultan Bin Mohammed Al Qassimi, Supreme Council Member and Ruler of Sharjah, the MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show will feature 500 exhibitors and brands across 30,000 sq. metres of exhibition space at all six halls at Expo Centre Sharjah. The exhibition will be open from October 6 to 10, 2015.

Celebrity News

Penelope Cruz shines in Chopard at the Toronto Film Festival

Penelope Cruz, main actress and co-producer of Spanish film Ma Ma, chose to wear Chopard earrings in 18ct rose gold featuring yellow diamonds (14cts) and a ring in 18ct white gold set with diamonds and featuring an emerald cut diamond (5cts), both from the High jewellery collection.

Alessandra Amrbrosio wears Messika Paris during New York Fashion Week

Alessandra Ambrosio wore the signature Messika Silk earrings while attending the Brazil Foundation Gala in New York.

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