Interviews

Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve

Interview with Nicolas Garzouzi, CEO of Audemars Piguet for Middle East: The Brand is on the Right Track & Ready to Take it to the Next Level”  

What are your brand’s “star” novelties for the SIHH 2015?
At SIHH 2015 we will be presenting, among other products, three stellar new models. The first will be the Royal Oak Concept RD#1, a concept watch developed according to the principles of stringed instrument making. A project that started in 2006 in collaboration with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne), the RD#1 is a minute-repeater watch that truly awakens sound.

The second important launch is the new Millenary collection for women which celebrates 20 years and will be beating to an in-house hand-wound caliber, the 5201. Last but not least, this year’s Haute Joaillerie piece, the Diamond Punk, is available in a full diamond version with 7,848 snow-set diamonds that define its 56 pyramid facets as well as in a diamond and onyx version.

What kind of impact does SIHH have on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?
We consider our relationship with our retailers to be a very important pillar for our continual success. The SIHH 2015 offers a valuable opportunity for us to enhance this relationship and create tighter bonds with our partners.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2015?
The past two years have been a time of regrouping strategy for the brand. In 2015 Audemars Piguet is on the right track and ready to take it to the next level’.

Any particular trend(s) that your brand is keen on in terms of movement and or designs?
Here we don’t talk about product trends but more about industry trends. Business is tougher so clients focus on safe haven brands with established legitimacy which we are very proud to be part of. The other global trend is the increasing focus of the brands towards ladies models.

When would we expect the SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East?
We launch our novelties simultaneously in the world and starting with our boutiques network which is very well developed in the Middle-East

What are your priorities for 2015?
Our main priorities are our retail partners, maintaining our outstanding customer engagement and experience, as well as continue crafting exceptional timepieces.

What is the percentage of the women watches introduced compared to the masculine watches introduced? Are there any plans to change the current equation?
We are on track with the strategy set in 2012. Since then, we have been working more and more on our ladies collection and this year we are extending our Millenary collection for ladies with an in-house hand-wound movement, caliber 5201. Our long term objective is to increase our ladies vs gents split to 35% vs 65% for male models. 

How is your brand faring in the Middle East?
As you must be aware, Audemars Piguet is doing very well since years in the Middle-East and has succeeded in establishing itself as a reference brand for both collectors and amateurs.

Do you propose to open more independent boutiques in the Middle East?
For now we intend to renew the existing network of boutiques instead of opening new ones.

What are the markets that you plan to focus on in the region to achieve your brands potential?
Every market is important for us. But obviously those where we operate an Audemars Piguet boutique are of critical importance.

Did your export figures increase in the Middle East for 2015?
Yes they did as the brand is gaining market share in the Middle East.

NOVELTIES:

 Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree

Created in the new Maison des Métiers d’Art on site at La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree watch reinvents the centuries-old technique of filigree using a figurative, precious approach. Over a month of work was required to create this lacework watch that is home to a pair of panthers whose black-lacquer-spotted coats are literally woven from fine filigree elements of gold and platinum set with diamonds.

Greubel Forsey GMT 5N Movement

For its sixth year at SIHH, Greubel Forsey launch three new creations that will fit perfectly into their signature’s positioning between Art and Science. The GMT 5N Movement presents a striking contrast between the rich rosé tone of the 5N finish of its main plate and bridges against its case in 950 platinum, which has a slightly lighter shade than the white gold version. This play of colors is repeated through the display back and highlights the universal time display represented by 24 major cities, each one located in a different time zone. This Timepiece, it is strictly limited to 22 pieces.

Montblanc Innovative Worldtime

The Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum watch interprets one of the most contemporary and useful complications - the world time function - in a new, innovative  way.  The earth is anchored at the core of this complication, which is named Orbis Terrarum, the Latin term for “globe”, “earth”, and “world”. This timepiece adopts a universal approach, telling the time in 24 time zones all over the world. The watch is driven by a self-winding mechanical movement, calibre MB29.20, beating at the frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz) with the exclusive complication developed in-house by Montblanc. 

The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon of Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon of Jaeger-LeCoultre expresses its strength of character through the realm of calendar-type horological complications. The watch is designed to remain accurate for a full 3,887 years. Its 42-millimetre diameter and its 14.3-millimetre thickness ensure a definite sense of comfort.
Part of the strength of the design characterising the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon, lies in the symmetrically choreographed dance of the functions displayed on the finely grained dial. A shrewd observer will doubtless note that the moon phase appears at 3 o’clock. This disc is made of lapis lazuli, a rock that looks as if it has landed there down from the sky chart. It features a dusting of stars echoing the moon, hands and hour markers, creating a two-tone ambiance also differing from the traditional identity codes of the Grande Maison.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon

The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon picks up the signature features of Roger Dubuis skeleton watches, the star-shaped design, the tourbillon carriage shaped like a Celtic cross and the high-end finishes including a circular-grained plate. Moreover, in keeping with the determination to push boundaries in all directions while fearlessly defending its territory that befits the world of the Warrior, the light yet robust 45 mm titanium case is also open worked. Spurred on by the mechanical hand-wound RD505SQ movement.

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