Interviews

Eberhard’s forte - novelty and creativity

You talk of innovations in watches and the first name comes to mind is Eberhard & Co. Since its founding in 1887, there has been no stopping in its efforts with regard to creativity and innovations. Be it Chrono 4 Geant or 8days, Eberhard & Co. always amazes its followers or others alike. Arabian Watches & Jewellery Magazine (AWJ) catches up with Eberhard & Company Chief Executive Mario Peserico for a candid chat with the regard to competitiveness, expansion and innovations in the current cut-throat competition era. Peserico underscores the need on building the brand recognition in the Middle East Below are excerpts from the interview with Peserico:

What is the source of success of Eberhard & Co. brand?

Since its foundation the company has been focusing on innovation. In this regard chronographs have always been the “heart” of this focus and between 1919 and 1940 the company developed some of the most interesting developments of this technical function. What is amazing is that Eberhard is still mainly focused on this and the Chrono 4 is the clear example of this, a unique patent and a unique design.

As a 125-year-old company, what is Eberhard & Co present day legacy?

I believe that our legacy is that even not being part of a big group with immense financial power, an independent brand with ideas, know-how and desire of challenges can still grow and add something important to the market.

Can you elaborate Eberhard & Co. motto “innovation with tradition”?

As I mentioned above innovation started more than hundred years ago when the brands were much less than now. To us tradition means nothing if there is no innovation because the market is now much more mature and saturated than 10 years ago; and you do not survive just with tradition.

On the other hand it is a concept that has to be preserved because it is a real patrimony and you can understand this by acknowledging how many brands pretend to have one. But the word is meaningless if not combined with progress; of this Chrono4 is not the only example. In 1997, we made the 8days that was the first long power-reserve (patented as well) in a 39 mm case with an incredible price/quality ratio. In the middle we had an anti-magnetic watch at the end of the 1950, a chronograph tested up to 9 G and antiG (the metric for “gravity” and “anti-gravity”) and many other ideas/patents from design to buckles, from bracelets to crowns.

You also take pride in the company’s 125 years of successful innovations. Looking forward, can you share Eberhard & Co. outlook with us?

Future of the company will be marked by the same criterion used in the past: Develop wisely investing mainly in the product than in the support of testimonials. One thing in fact excludes the other if you want to maintain a reasonable price positioning; and we still prefer to grow slower but consciousness than the opposite.

We are increasingly witnessing mergers in the industry. Being an independent company, can Eberhard & Co. maintain its creativity, competitiveness and expansion?

I do not think belonging to a group would help creativity or even independency (unless you are of very big dimension) can slow down expansion. But we know this and we like our situation.

Your collection is more of a masculine sport watches. How do you integrate female watches profile in your line of watches? What is the sale percentage of each collection; male vs female?

Eberhard & Co. used to produce female watches already in 1910 but definitely the predominance of the market for gents’ watches kept the ladies collections always in a corner. Then, two years ago, Mrs. Barbara Monti, who is the CEO of the company, had the inspiration of a new product, Gilda, that was something absolutely feminine but with a touch and the strength of a unique personality and not a female version of a male watch; so we decided to invest in the project. The female market is growing a lot in terms of self-purchase so it was time for us to be part of this market. The percentage is 80 male versus 20 female

As we approach world’s premiere watches exhibition BaselWorld 2012, how is Eberhard & co planning for this expo and what are the novelties that you will reveal at this show - especially with your 125^th anniversary?

As you mentioned we will be celebrating the 125 years but what is even more important is that this period has been uninterrupted and this is something that very few can say. This said, we will present a model dedicated to the anniversary and limited based on our Extra-Fort collection, a version in gold of our Chrono 4 Geant and a very interesting chronograph, the Champion V (5) in our entry price segment.

How important is the Middle East for Eberhard & Co?

 I believe Middle East is one of the key markets for three reasons. The first is that it is a market that will be much stronger than others; the second is that it is a hub for its geographical position and the third is that local customers and collectors became very mature in the last 15 years and love technical improvements.

What are Eberhard & Co. biggest challenges in the region?

Without hiding behind void words, our first step is to build the brand recognition in the region. I think our local partners that we are selecting among the most honorable and professional will support us in this challenge.

What is your message to the regional industry, Eberhard & Co. customers and watch connoisseurs?

For every new market the first step is to appreciate the brand and only later the product; this is now happening in China but in the Middle East this process has already been completed years ago and the local collectors and passionists have a real deep competence. I am sure this will help them to consider Eberhard & Co. as a brand that is really producing unique watches and will create its space in the market.

Market News

UAE’s GDP increases 3.3 percent in 2011

According to the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU), UAE’s economy has recorded a notable recovery in 2011 growing by around 3.3 percent, from 1.4 percent in 2010. EIU added that due to the slowdown in government spending that originated in the second quarter of the year and was implemented throughout the rest of 2011, growth was revised down to 3.3 percent. It also said that as a result of a surge in oil production, gross domestic product (GDP) in 2012 would be expected to grow by 3.5 percent. It is worth noting that UAE’s GDP recovered by 1.4 percent from around $262.24 billion in 2009 to around $266 billion in 2010, according to government data.

Company News

Hublot is the ‘Official Timekeeper’ of Al Wasl Football Club for the next two seasons (2011-2012)

The signing ceremony took place in Dubai on 15^th of February between H.E. Marwan bin Beyat, Chairman of Al Wasl Football Company and Mr. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot in the presence of Mohamed Seddiqi. Commenting on the new signing, H.E. Marwan bin Beyat said: “We are proud to add to our portfolio of international sponsors a luxurious brand such as Hublot, which has been the ‘Official Watch’ for many in the sports world.” Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of the Hublot, commented: “Hublot was the first luxury brand to be present in the football world under Mr. Biver’s impulsion in 2006. We are now associated with FIFA, UEFA and many renowned clubs such as Machester United, Ajax Amsterdam and Bayern Munich. Today, I’m particularly proud to announce our first venture into the Middle East, partnering with prestigious Al Wasl Club because we share the same values: raw passion, a love of perfection and technical precision right down to the smallest detail. Diego Maradona, Head Coach of Al Wasl Football Team, is also Hublot brand ambassador. Recently, the Swiss brand proudly unveiled the King Power Maradona in China.

Caroline Scheufele honored with Award of Courage at Annual amfAR Gala

On 8^th of February, Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard, was honored at the Foundation for AIDS Research (amfAR) annual black-tie gala for her brave and enduring commitment to the fight against AIDS, a cause that she has always felt particularly passionate about. She received the Award of Courage from long-time friend David Furnish. Caroline has been a committed supporter of amfAR for many years, most notably through her steadfast support of the annual Cinema Against AIDS gala, which is organized during the Cannes International Film Festival. Caroline and Chopard have been instrumental in the success of the Cinema Against AIDS event series, which has raised nearly $70 million for amfAR’s initiatives to end the AIDS epidemic since 1996.

Van Cleef & Arpels school of Jewellery opens to public

For Van Cleef & Arpels, an ardent defender of the artistic crafts, passing on, sharing and teaching knowledge is a duty. This is why the Maison has decided to create a school of Jewellery, open to all. It offers a unique method of discovering and learning for those who are passionate about jewellery, lovers of beauty or simply curious and anyone who wishes to acquire “inside” knowledge of this fascinating world. The school is open to an international public. The school offers a non-technical curriculum, the discovery of an art, the development of a discerning eye, the knowledge of materials. Its ambition is to encourage the intellectual and emotional grasp of the “soul” of Jewellery and convey skill through personal experience. L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels is located on the place Vendome in an 18th century town house that embodies French Artistic Style.

TAG Heuer announces Regional Friends of the Brand

TAG Heuer has recently announced Alanoud Badr and Hatem Alakeel as their regional friends of the brand alongside various other representatives from across the globe at the TIME FOR REBELS exhibition in Geneva. This exhibition was paying tribute to the SMART WATER FOR GREEN SCHOOLS program charity project, which is part of the Green Cross International, the leading environmental organization. The time devoted by all the personalities involved in the exhibition generated an amount of 250,000CHF donated to the organization. At the TIME FOR REBELS exhibition, the Swiss legends whose pioneering spirit has driven it forward for more than 150 years showcased another first of a kind technology breakthrough in watchmaking by launching the Mikrogirder 5/10000^th mechanical chronograph.

Montegrappa opens Boutique in Qatar

Montegrappa is proud to announce the opening of its latest boutique in the Middle East region. The new boutique in 'The Mall' in Doha, Qatar's capital is a modern beacon for the one hundred year old company. The boutique showcases the brand's full collections, from the beautiful and timeless hand-made writing instruments for which Montegrappa is famous, to the more modern accessories, including cufflinks, watches, leather goods and fragrances, that have been launched more recently as part of Montegrappa's successful diversification into a full lifestyle brand while keeping its historic roots as Italy's oldest manufacturer of pens and nibs.

Product Launch

The 2012 LANGE 1 TIME ZONE places two new cities on the map

The LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been the ultimate travel companion for cosmopolites and frequent flyers since 2005. Its dial indicates both home and the current travel time in a second time zone at a single glance. The new 2012 white gold version with luminous hands and appliques now makes it easier for travellers in the Middle East to keep track of time when crossing the world’s 24 time zones, even in the dark. In addition to the already existing time zone Dubai, 2 new cities have been added: Beirut and Riyadh. The watch features a rotating ring with the names of 24 cities representing the respective time zones, which can be easily set with a push piece. With the new white gold LANGE 1 TIME ZONE, these settings can be effortlessly performed in the dark, thanks to luminous hands and appliques in rhodiumed gold on the main and subsidiary dials and the typical “Up and Down” power-reserve indicator.

James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector's Piece by OMEGA

To celebrate fifty years of James Bond films, OMEGA is releasing a special update of the incredibly popular Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch which has been worn by 007 in every adventure since GoldenEye. The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector's Piece has been created in two sizes, 41 mm and 36.25 mm.  The cases of the watches are made of stainless steel and they feature ceramic bezel rings with diving scales in matt chromium nitride with the number "50" in red as a reminder that the watch is celebrating a very special anniversary.  Each version of the watch is presented on a classic brushed and polished OMEGA-patented screw-and-pin stainless steel bracelet.

Swarovski introduces its new men’s watch

After launching its first collection of men’s jewelry and accessories in 2010, the next obvious step for the Austrian company, a leader in the field of precision cut crystal for 117 years, was to launch a collection of watches entirely for men. The “Piazza Grande” for men is inspired by the bestselling “Piazza”, which was introduced when the first Swarovski watch collection was launched at Baselworld 2009.

U-Boat Italo Fontana unveils its Baselworld 2012 novelties

U-Boat, for the seventh year in a row, will be present at Baselworld, the most important trade show for the watch industry. In the prestigious Hall 1.0, temple of the major and historical brands, U-Boat Italo Fontana launches two Pre-Basel novelties: the U-42 GMT and the automatic “B and B” model boasting Bronze metal and Black shades. Both of them are evolutions of the original U-42, a great example of design purity with strong timeless and recognized identity. Based on a watch developed by Italo Fontana’s grandfather in 1942 for the Italian Navy, the original U-42 was presented, for the first time, at Baselworld 2010 and followed by two chrono versions in 2011.

The Cape Cod Watch by Hermes

Just as each season brings its palette of colors, Cape Cod treats the strap of its small model to a choice of two new shades. The freshness of lime green evoking the tangy flavour of lemon, interpreted in smooth calfskin in single or double wrap-around versions, adds a sparkling vivacious touch to the sober lines of the steel case. Another color speaks of other horizons. The smooth calfskin is lit up by an electric blue shade reminiscent of waves shimmering in the moonlight. In the double wrap- around version, the strap forms a majestic twosome with the steel case; while the single version radiates an intensity equalling that of the diamonds which accentuate the case. This year, the large men’s model opts for the refinement of pewter grey – a deep hue expressed in graded shades on the dial, running from the lighter guilloche central square rimmed with a minute track, through to the delightfully contrasting soft half-shade surrounding the applied rhodium-plated hour-markers.

Yoko presents the Black Allure

Yoko, the most exclusive brand by Euro Pearls, established in 1973 features some of the world’s most imaginative and beautifully crafted pieces of exceptional pearl jewellery. This set of jewellery, showcasing one of the most recent designs from Yoko London, comprises some of the highest quality AAA and AA south sea Australian pearls, perfectly graduating in colour to these irresistible black Tahitian pearls of exceptional sizes. This newest collection from Yoko, as with many of their creations, are all unique, one of a kind designs.  This exclusivity has now brought Yoko to the forefront of pearl jewellery, epitomizing the highest level of luxury and desirability. Stepping into the Yoko flagship boutique in London’s prestigious Beauchamp Place in Knightsbridge is by far an experience of luxury and beauty, with exquisite pieces using every type of pearl imaginable. 

Premiere of the New VICTOR MAYER Collection at Baselworld 2012

A rose-colored tourmaline shimmers gently, surrounded by opalescent rose and white in complementary tones. The artistic hand-engraved petals in genuine fire enamel are set with the finest brilliant-cut diamonds. The romantic ‘Serenade Collection’ aims to draw your attention to the unique craftsmanship of the traditional VICTOR MAYER brand from Pforzheim: these sculpted items of jewellery in the shape of petals are a perfect example of the exceptional expertise of the designers, goldsmiths, modellers, engravers, enamellers and gemstone experts involved. ‘Serenade’ comes as a ring, necklace and earrings and is available in most colors of the rainbow.

The arrival of Ulysse Nardin Chairman Smart Phones

Scientific Cellular Innovations, Ltd. (SCI) has announced the first deliveries of the highly anticipated Ulysse Nardin Chairman, the world’s first and finest luxury hybrid smart phone, to the United States as well as international locations. The essence of exclusivity, only 1846 units of each style of Chairman are available in honor of Ulysse Nardin’s founding year. To complement the hand-held masterpiece, SCI created the world’s finest docking station. A work of art in its own right, and resembling the famed “Ulysse Nardin Ship Chronometers,” the gorgeous lacquered wooden docking station is made up of over 260 hand assembled parts and is as functional as it is stylish. Adding to the momentum that the first shipments of the Chairman has created, attendees of the esteemed watch and jewelry industry trade show BaselWorld will have the privilege of experiencing Chairman first-hand.

Exhibitions & Events

India augments its presence at Hong Kong Jewellery Show

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) is presenting India's leading 90  manufactures of Gems & Jewellery at the Hong Kong Jewellery Show from 16th- 20th of February at Hong Kong Exhibition & Convention Centre. The Hong Kong Jewellery show is one of the finest in the industry that caters to the key markets of Asia. GJEPC has hosted Indian Contingent in Hong Kong fairs for nearly 8 years and has been expanding ever since. The participation has increased manifolds since inception and this February, the India Pavilion grows bigger with additional location at meeting room N 201 where prominent Indian Loose diamond companies will display their exclusive range.

India Show at Lahore

The Gem & Jewellery Export Council (GJEPC), the apex body of the Indian gems and jewellery industry has announced participation with 18 member companies in “The India Show” being organized by FICCI (Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce & Industry) at Lahore, Pakistan from 11-13 February 2012. The show last for 3 days and saw participation from India’s leading gems and jewellery exporters. A first of its kind, this initiative supported by GJEPC aims to strengthen the trade ties between the two countries and leverage the huge potential of gems and jewellery trade. The strategic decision to host India Show in Pakistan is an attempt to exchange skills sets, understand the intricacies of local trade and mutually discover a great lineage of design and craftsmanship.

Celebrity News

Huo Siyan wears Van Cleef & Arpels at International Film Festival in Berlin

On February 9, 2012Chinese actress Huo Siyan wears Van Cleef & Arpels for the screening of the movie 'Farewell My Queen' at the opening gala at the 62nd International Film Festival in Berlin. She wore the following: Oiseaux de Paradis necklace in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires, Oiseaux de Paradis earrings in white gold and diamonds and Oiseaux de Paradis ring in white gold and diamonds.

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