Interviews

Arabian Watches and Jewellery Magazine: Skeleton Watches By Keith W. Strandberg

With the incredible popularity of mechanical watches, it’s only natural that owners enjoy admiring the turning balance wheel and the movement of the mechanics – pinions, wheels and tiny gears. Many watches have exhibition backs, but that’s not enough for some people – and that’s why skeleton watches have become so very popular.

Skeleton watches range from watches with dial-side openings (partial skeletons, really) to watches with no dial, showing the entire movement. Exposing the movement in most cases means decorating the parts, as utilitarian movements are typically not particularly attractive (aside from brands like Greubel Forsey, Montblanc Villeret and Geneva Seal movements, where all surfaces are finished beautifully, whether or not they are visible).

Focus on the Movement

Because the movement is on display, it’s important for skeleton watches to showcase the movement in the very best way. Says Guillaume Tetu, CEO, Hautlence, “The key consideration is to create a kinetic show in the watch, playing with light and finishing. The goal is to open a maximum of surface to see the mechanism and play with the light on the surfaces of the movement.”

A skeleton watch is all about the beauty of the movement, and can often mean skeletonizing a complication, like a chronograph.

“Besides the thinness and finishing of the movement, the aesthetic of the movement is so important because it is entirely visible,” says Larry Pettinelli, president, Patek Philippe NA. “A skeleton allows the wearer to appreciate the beauty and complexity of the movement.  For Patek Philippe, it is the hand craftsmanship and finishing of each and every element that brings this work of art to the highest level.”

Most high end companies choose to highlight their best movements in their skeleton range, liked Zenith’s famous chronograph, the El Primero.

“The Open concept within Zenith’s El Primero Chronomaster collection is the realization of technical prowess: to make the regulating organ visible – the main characteristic for Zenith as it uncovers the very essence of time and reveals, in the opening on its dial, the 36,000 vibrations of its movement: the legendary El Primero,” says Philippe Dufour, president and CEO of Zenith. “The purpose is definitely to reveal the beauty and speciality of the movement and see a mechanical watches’ ‘heart’ beating.”

Armin Strom (Armin Strom AG) made his name skeletonizing movements, making each watch a piece unique. “The purpose of skeletonization is to make the movement and its functions as transparent as possible,” details Strom. “To remove all unnecessary parts of a watch plate. This however never affects the function of a movement.”

The Work Involved

Skeletonizing a watch involves intensive work, as all the surfaces visible to the eye have to be finished, decorated and polished.

“From research and development to final quality control, the entire timepiece can take over three years to complete,” details Patek’s Pettinelli. “Patek Philippe’s Caliber 177 works so well due to the extra thin movement (just 1.77 mm high), it has a traditional shape and has four main bridges that lend a landscape for beautiful hand finishing.  The Caliber 240 featured in the men’s Ref. 5180/1G is an equally great example for skeletonizing due to the four bridges (barrel, train, automatic and balance wheel) that showcase hand crafted engraving. It is important to note that a skeleton timepiece does not feature a dial, which allows for an incredibly thin profile.”

“There is considerable work involved in skeletonizing as it involves several additional work-steps on the dial and also on the movement – both have to be perfectly coordinated one to the other,” explains Zenith’s Dufour. “This might seem like just a cut-off of the dial but actually it is a meticulous micro-engineering task as much as art as it has to be harmonious with the design of the dial.”

For watches that are specifically designed to be skeletons, the groundwork needed to realize a beautiful watch is painstaking and difficult. “A very specific study is needed to prepare the piece, a lot of thought to find the chemistry between the design, manufacture and the work required,” says Benjamin Muller, owner of M. Benjamin. “The complexity of maintaining an implementation of the elements while maintaining a solid architecture so as not to weaken the building. Openwork skeletonization involves elements of the movement of plates, bridges -- but the game is to keep enough material so that these elements can be reliably assembled and durable.”

Just about any movement can be skeletonized, but to be supremely beautiful, a movement should be designed to become a skeleton.

“A lot of watches can be skeletonized, but if you really want to have a result, you need to design it especially for the skeletonization,” acknowledges Hautlence’s Tetu. “As skeletonization can weaken the movement, you need to respect mechanical rules, and you need to leave enough material.”

Scarily Popular

Skeleton watches are becoming ever more popular, as customers really want to see their mechanical movements on display. “Skeleton watches continue to be a novelty for our brand based on their unique aesthetic and the length of time it takes to produce a single timepiece,” says Patek’s Pettinelli. “The production remains incredibly limited.”

There’s definitely something special about having a skeleton watch on your wrist. It doesn’t just give the time, it offers a little bit of “watch joy” whenever you glance at your list. In fact, watch lovers can get lost in the beautiful movements on display.

“For mechanical watch aficionados, skeleton watches are a delight and very popular, but lovers of design are more and more attracted to the exceptional design of skeletonized watches,” explains Zenith’s Dufour. “We can count all our skeletonized watches amongst our Top 10 bestsellers like the El Primero Chronomaster collection, the El Primero Tourbillon collection and also the Academy Christophe Colomb collection.”

If you don’t have a skeleton in your collection, now might be the time with all the great options on the market. If you do own a skeleton watch, wear it and enjoy it!

Market News

Ali Bin Ali Group in a remarkable mentoring initiative with Qatar Foundation

Ali Bin Ali Group announced a remarkable initiative in which they are partnering Qatar Foundation, one of the nation’s leading educational bodies. Having proposed this notable collaboration Ali Bin Ali Group has offered a mentoring opportunity to a number of students from Qatar Foundation’s universities.

Unlike most mentoring efforts the Ali Bin Ali initiative won’t simply be a sponsorship or a CSR effort. The chosen students who will participate in this effort will not just receive a sponsorship but also targeted exposure to a variety of fields of work. Since the group has multiple business operations the company is able to enrich the student’s experience, making it both practical and meaningful.  

A few of the group’s divisions like International Agencies (IA), Qatar Quality Products (QQP), Ali Bin Ali Medical & Fauchon have come forward to support this endeavor. Each of these business units and the group as a whole is engaging in this mentoring program as part of its strategy to partner with society.

Commenting on this effort Mr. Nabeel Ali Bin Ali, Vice Chairman-Ali Bin Ali Group said “We came up with this mentoring initiative because we wanted to be part of something that reflected our commitment to the overall education sector and to the growth of professionalism among the youth of this country. So we came up with this idea of supporting a few students on an annual basis, and bringing them in to allow them to gain valuable hands on exposure to our industries. Through this mentoring effort they will not just receive a boost of support from us but also valuable experience to work and learn first hand in the ‘real-world’ so to speak. Ali Bin Ali Group is a versatile company so we are capable of offering these youth the opportunity to gain a certain measure of experience in one of the multiple industry sectors we lead in.”

Speaking to the media, Mr. Ahmad Hasna- Associate Vice President- Higher Education, Qatar Foundation said “We are very happy to work in partnership with one of Qatar’s most successful conglomerates. We are especially pleased because we know that the Ali Bin Ali Group truly believes in fostering local talent and equipping young people with professional skills in order to prepare the next generation of business leaders. This is a goal Qatar Foundations shares and readily supports.”

Ali Bin Ali Group recognized the crucial role played by Qatar Foundation (QF), to develop this nation’s education sector and hence found an opportunity to build synergistic partnership, by joining hands with QF for the betterment of youth.

As a long term goal it is envisaged that the students who have completed their internships and been trained by Ali Bin Ali professionals, will be given opportunities to join the Group in the areas and industries that reflect their talents and skills.  The mentoring effort was launched with the Scholarship signing ceremony. It took place on the 28^th, September 2011 at the Ali Bin Ali Head Office amidst Mr. Nabeel Ali Bin Ali, Vice Chairman-Ali Bin Ali Group, Mr. Ahmad Hasna- Associate Vice President- Higher Education, Qatar Foundation and many other senior management staff from both Ali Bin Ali Group and Qatar Foundation Universities.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Gc event to announce UAE representatives for 'Smart Luxury'

On 11th October 2011, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Gc will celebrate the 'Moments of Smart Luxury captured by Gc' where 4 emerging personalities of the UAE will be announced as representatives of the Gc values: ambitious, dynamic, self-assured and proud of their success. The four individuals will be officially introduced at an exclusive 'Moments of Smart Luxury' event to honor the achievements and passion of these dynamic individuals. The four individuals are: Omar Khoori: Equestrian & horse show jumper (Emirati), Athari Khalfan Obaid Khalfan: Painter (Emirati), Shayma Ahmed Al Mughairy: Sand Artist (Omani) and Rhoda Oghly: Artist (Syrian-Canadian). The event will be held at Voda Lounge in Zabeel Saray, Palm Jumeirah, Dubai.

Damas signs several agreement to recover $337M in payments

Damas has signed several agreements to recover more than AED337M ($91.8M) in outstanding payments. The money is part of the sum taken out by one of the Abdullah brothers from the company account more than a year ago that triggered a crisis within the organization.

Company News

Jaeger-LeCoultre official partner of Global Champions Tour

The Global Champions Tour (GCT), the most prestigious championship in show jumping today, is proud to announce that Jaeger-LeCoultre will be the official partner and time keeper of the Tour for the next seasons. In celebration of the 80th Anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes great pleasure to be at the Grand Final of the Global Champions Tour to be held on November 26 to 26, 2011 at Al Forsan International Sports Resort in Abu Dhabi. The winner of every tournament will win a Reverso specially engraved by the manufacture for this occasion. During the events, guests will be welcomed in the VIP area, where they will attend a beautiful spectacular and also discover the latest timepieces from La Grande Maison.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ new High Jewellery collection pays tribute to Legendary Balls

Van Cleef & Arpels has chosen to renew this very French and very Parisian tradition of the Ball. The new High Jewellery collection, Bals de Legende, presents five sets of jewels, inspired by five extraordinary 20th century balls. Each tells the story of an unforgettable evening, guided by a sparkling feminine dancer. Since 1941, Ballerina clips are part of the artistic heritage of Van Cleef & Arpels. Five of these brooches representing a graceful dancer have thus been created especially for this collection. It is they who invite us to step into the magical world of these five Bals de Legende.

Hublot and Usain Bolt celebrate the opening of the Beverly Hills Boutique

Hublot is proud to partner up with its living-legend ambassador Usain Bolt to celebrate its new Beverly Hills boutique through the “Hublot Race Challenge” and soiree. Following the race challenge, a special evening took place at the exclusive Mr. C’s, where Hublot aficionados and Usain Bolt fans gathered to view the latest collection of Hublot watches and toasted to the new Beverly Hills boutique opening. Usain Bolt surprised the crowd with a special DJ performance. The “Hublot Race Challenge” took place at the grounds of the Greystone Mansion and was hosted by sports media personality Neil Everett, where every kid that finishes the race before Usain Bolt raised $10,000 for the foundation. In addition, Hublot and Usain Bolt announced a new program that will be created for STAR Education.

Graham London announces new Ambassador

Graham London is pleased to welcome Graham Rahal as an official brand ambassador. Graham Rahal was born in 1989 in Columbus, OH, USA and has car racing in his blood. The son of the 1986 Indiapolis 500 winner and three-time CART Champion Bobby Rahal, Graham became the youngest winner in the IZOD IndyCar series era when he drove to victory in his series debut in the 2008 Grand Prix of St-Petersburg at the age of 19 years old. He is also the Series' youngest pole position winner. Very talented and competitive, he sets himself apart in the competition as a true car racing prodigy. Outside of racing, Graham devotes his time to help children with serious medical conditions through the Graham Rahal Foundation.

Bell & Ross opens its first store in Beijing China

Bell & Ross continues to pursue its international development by opening its first boutique in Beijing China. After a series of openings in Singapore, Hong Kong and Macau that signaled its expansion strategy into the Asian market, the brand goes one step further by establishing itself in the Chinese capital. Bell & Ross celebrated this event by introducing three exclusive and limited editions to the delight the many collectors and enthusiasts of the brand in China.: blue versions of Bell & Ross‘ iconic models: BR01 Radar, BR01 Compass and BR01 Airborne, limited to a hundred pieces each. The new boutique is located at Seasons Place Shopping Mall, Beijing, China.

Gerard Butler as new ambassador of Roger Dubuis

Maurice Lacroix S.A. announces changes in the Executive Management

A new Financial Director will be appointed as part of the majority take-over of Maurice Lacroix S.A. by DKSH on 1 July 2011. As a member of the executive board, Philipp von Buren will take over responsibility for the financial division on 1 October 2011 from Stefan Wuest, who will be leaving the company at the beginning of 2012, after eight years. Philipp von Buren has been working for DKSH, a leading company in the field of market expansion services focusing on Asia, for the past five years in a dual capacity, which includes the position of Controller for the luxury and lifestyle product segment. Three of these years he spent as Controller of the special raw materials business division in Singapore.

Product Launch

Chopard unveils its new exquisitely colorful Haute Joaillerie collection

In this festival of gold, diamonds and precious multi-colored gemstones, Chopard is devoting its expertise to a “demystified”, ready-to-wear form of luxury. Luscious colors and delicious shapes: the brand’s latest collection stirs temptations and desires around this mouth-watering ‘buffet’ of precious sweet treats. Alongside sovereign precious stones, other gems also sparkle and shine: rubellites, kunzites, tsavorites, amethysts and Paraiba tourmalines complement diamonds, emeralds and sapphires in a whirl of subtle colours and glowing radiance. The collection is composed of delectably fresh, enlivening and refined rings, earrings and necklaces in gorgeous colors.

Carl F. Bucherer offers Manero MoonPhase

Carl F. Bucherer has launched the Manero MoonPhase from the classic Manero range. The special appeal of the Manero MoonPhase lies in its detailed calendar function. A glance at the wrist provides the wearer with a quick overview of the current date, shown by hands around the center of the dial. While the indication of the weekday has been placed at 10 o’clock, the current month can be read off on the right at 2 o’clock. The finishing touch for this special calendar is provided by the moon phase indication, shown centrally at 6 o’clock. The CFB 1966 automatic movement unique to Carl F. Bucherer is at the heart of this extraordinary calendar, making it a reliable companion. The classic display is housed within a 38mm rose gold case. Legibility is central to the design, and the Superluminova-treated hands allow reading in the dark.

Breitling introduces the new Colt model

Breitling has entirely redesigned its Colt model, a symbol of sturdiness, reliability and performance. A sculptural model carved in steel, the new Colt turns heads with its original styling clearly built for action, achievements and thrills. With its solid construction and its water resistance to 300 meters (1,000 ft) or 500 meters (1,650 ft), it establishes itself as an exceptionally sporty model, a champion and natural frontrunner. The dials are adorned with new rounded numerals exclusively designed for this model, with rhythmical motifs and with a play on colors. The steel bracelet reinforces the unique character of this fresh, youthful and dynamic design, while ensuring optimal comfort and sturdiness. Available in three versions including a chronograph and a ladies’ watch, the new Colt is equipped with SuperQuartz™ movements.

Ferragamo launches its First Jewellery Line

Salvatore Ferragamo hosted an exclusive cocktail reception to celebrate its very first jewelry collection. Created in collaboration with Gianni Bulgari, the collection will go on sale in October at 18 selected stores in Asia, the United States and Europe. The debut pieces are modern works that embody the spirit and essence of the luxury brand. There are three distinct lines within the jewelry collection, Futurista, Vara, and Gancino. All are composed of luxe materials such as silver and yellow gold, in addition to precious and semi-precious stones.

Jaquet Droz presents Grande Seconde Quantieme

With its striking aesthetics and sleek, avant-garde design, the Grande Seconde has been celebrating the magic of time in its most infinitesimal fractions since the 18th century. This providential model, a creation of the Manufacture Jaquet Droz, is unanimously recognized as one of the most astonishing timepieces in watchmaking history. Available in several jewelry versions and reinterpreted in the SW version, the Grande Seconde has always been presented in a case of precious metal or ceramic. Today, this magnificent watch is ushering in yet another innovation: it has been made of steel, a material suggesting strength, nobility and simplicity.

Nautica introduces NSR 08

The NSR 08 is a sport watch with a crisp, clean aesthetic and timeless design that makes a bold color statement. Arcs, angles and geometric shapes add a marine-style twist to this modern sport watch. A splash of color on the dial's port side, reminiscent of a radar sweep, complements the strap color and brings energy to the design. NSR 08 features a chronograph with stop watch functionality, tachymeter and authentic nautical details. A sweeping week-at-a-glance date window offsets the minute and second indicators. A turning bezel, water resistance up to 100 meters and luminous hands add a sense of adventure. The NSR 08 is available in a 46mm stainless steel case with a choice of five colorways: red, orange, yellow, black and nautical white with red and blue trim.

Versace launches DV One Cruise

Versace has launched a new version of the DV One Cruise available in six different versions.  The new line is characterized by mix and match materials, bold colors and a pop mood. With their exclusive spirit and instantly recognizable look, the new chronographs are inspired by the DV One Cruise limited edition. A high-tech XL ceramic case, precise quartz movement, an enamelled dial and a leather strap are the features shared by these new watches, expanding the DV One line with their ever-changing color effects falling somewhere between simplicity and glamour.

DeLaneau reveals its latest creation

After a long and careful research within its archives, DeLaneau was drawn to the creation of the collection Les Delicates. Romantic, sparkling and precious, these bracelet watches are odes to poetry and gentleness. Taking the shape of a heart or a flower, they may also have a round or diamond shaped body. Both classic and contemporary, Les Delicates bestows elegance and femininity to its lady as if they had always belonged to each other. Les Delicates are the celebration of 60 years of passion that combines horology and jewelry entirely and uniquely dedicated to women. The collection will be composed of twenty unique pieces, each one adorned with a different stone palette.

Tibaldi creates Pen to Honor Sanctus Michael Archangelus

Montegrappa announced the availability of the Sanctus Michael Archangelus pen from its subsidiary, Tibaldi. Portrayed as young and strong in magnificent armor, Saint Michael is often seen in combat with a dragon or standing upon the vanquished Satan. It is this image that captures the essence of Saint Michael, and it is the image that adorns the pen fashioned in his honor by Tibaldi. Released a limited edition of 324 pens each in silver (fountain pen and roller ball); the number represents the earliest reference to Saint Michael in the Old Testament. It will also be made available in a series of 50 pens of each for the gold edition (fountain pen and roller ball), to represent the 50 angels in Christian and Islamic tradition. All pen trims are produced in either sterling silver or solid gold and the pen body is in resin.

Exhibitions & Events

Dubai International Jewellery Week

Now in its sixteenth edition, Dubai International Jewellery Week 2011, the most prestigious consumer and industry event of its kind in the Middle East, is expected to deliver record results this year. According to a recent report by the Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Industry, US$ 41.3 billion worth of gold was traded in Dubai in 2010, an increase of 18 percent on the previous year, while the Dubai Diamond Exchange reported 128 percent growth in polished diamond exports,  valued at  US$14.6 billion. The exhibition will run from 10-13 November 2011 at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre (DICEC) and is organized by the Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC).

Exhibition opening dates extended for Saudi Arabia’s fine jewellery and luxury watch exhibition

The opening dates of the first edition of Saudi Arabia’s International Fine Jewellery and Luxury Watch Exhibition - Jewelex Arabia 2011, have been extended from three to four days at the request of exhibitors. The exhibition will now run from 4 to 7 December 2011.

All available exhibition space at Riyadh’s prestigious Four Seasons Hotel, venue for Jewelex Arabia 2011, has now been taken up by international and regional names such as Al Mahmood Pearls, Al Zain, Art-Creations, Avakian, Bogh-Art, Chatila, Gemayel, Kooheji, Moussaieff, Nsouli, Salamoon, Voyager, Yessayn and Zela.

Major Saudi retail trading agencies such as Al Fitaihi and Poinciana have reserved a major section of the exhibition for their presentations of fine jewellery and luxury watches on behalf of their impressive portfolios of principals worldwide.

These and other international jewellery houses will be showing their branded and designer-led fine diamond, gemset, platinum and gold jewellery and jewellery collections; luxury watches and jewellery accessories. The exhibition will provide a unique platform for exhibitors to interface with the Kingdom’s discerning jewellery and watch buyers, collectors and investors; as well as high-end jewellery retail traders.

Special Customs/Logistics arrangements have been made with the Saudi Arabian Department of Customs. These will be handled by ViaMat International of Zurich who are putting up a Bank Guarantee on behalf of all exhibitors for the temporary import of high value merchandise and to cover sales transactions at the exhibition.

Saudi Arabia is the Middle East’s biggest single market for fine jewellery and luxury watches conservatively worth more than US$5 billion a year.

Further information from the Jewelex Arabia 2011 organisers:

Alagat Montgomery, 9 Manchester Square, London W1U 3PL

Phone: +44 20 7886 3034 / Email: jewelex-arabia@montex.co.uk

Web: www.jewelex-arabia.com

Celebrity News

Dame Helen Mirren wears Chopard to the Premiere of her new movie “The Debt”

Oscar-winner actress Dame Helen Mirren chose to wear a magnificent set from Chopard Haute Joaillerie collection consisting in a diamonds and rubies 18ct white gold pendant on a diamond beads 18ct white gold chain with matching earrings to the UK Premiere of her latest movie “The Debt” in London on 21 September 2011.

Emmy Rossum dazzles in Piaget Jewels

Actress, Emmy Rossum wore a Piaget high jewelry as she arrived at the premiere of “Eugene Onegin” at the Los Angeles Opera’s White Night Season Opening Gala. Rossum, who currently stars in the acclaimed Showtime television series, “Shameless,” is a longtime friend of the Swiss jeweler. For her night at the opera, she chose Piaget’s Limelight Paris Couture necklace in white gold, set with 426 brilliant-cut diamonds and two pear-shaped emeralds, with a pair of white gold and diamond earrings.

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