Interview with Caroline Gaspard, Founder and Designer of AKILLIS; Rolex to debut new models for 2020; Patek Philippe unveils its new models

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Interview with Caroline Gaspard, Founder and Designer of AKILLIS

Founded in 2007 by Caroline Gaspard founder and designer, who lives and breathes the brand, AKILLIS radiates energy in its iconoclastic collections that for almost a decade have stood as a manifesto of independence from the established norms of the 21st century. On the occasion of the launch of its new collection “TATTOO”, Caroline explains to Arabian Watches & Jewellery magazine her inspiration and commitment to its unique style.

You have stated that “The designer loves having fun and changing her style according to her mood, She stands out by creating unique and modern pieces- Each collection reflects a different aspect of her personality”. Which part of your personality does the new TATTOO Jewellery collection reflects in your personality?

Definitely the Rock’N’Roll one! I love tattoos but I also like to have the possibility to change my style, I’m afraid of getting tired of it. This is why I created the first jewelry tattoo that you can apply, swap or remove wherever, whenever, however.
 
Who is the primary target audience of this collection? Is this a unisex collection with certain parts?

I certainly created this collection with millennials in mind, however it is definitely not limited to this demographic. Tattoos are prominent in all age groups these days and the patterns in the new collection speak to everyone; women and men alike. It’s definitely a unisex collection as I believe partners should be able to share their most precious gems!

What does it mean to have the new Tattoo collection in Black & White while, women usually like their Jewellery shining?

Black diamonds actually sparkle a lot! White diamonds have a dazzling brilliance, while black diamonds shine with more delicacy. This makes pieces with black diamonds easier to wear on more casual looks and gives an air of mystery to the wearer... it’s something different.

What kind of production method did AKILLIS adopt in producing the new Tattoo collection? Did you introduce or/use a new fusion material?

We have been using titanium in our jewellery for many years and its certainly part of our DNA. We also used black DLC (Diamond Like Carbon), but for the Tattoo collection we had to deepen research on this material in order to achieve very fine and curved shapes. We have also combined pink gold with titanium, which is new to Akillis and something striking about this collection.  Some pieces are also paved which is a very difficult method to carry out, but our workshops have the necessary capacities to be able to pave them and create masterpieces that are worn effortlessly.

For the first time, in this collection we have developed pieces in black gold, set with black diamonds which you can find in our High Jewellery set. Black gold is a material that isn’t used often in the jewelry industry, which leads us to develop this material. 

This is not the first time that you use the black diamond in your collections. What is the secret of this attraction with this stone and what does it mean to you as a designer?

It’s mysterious and has a unisex appeal and I really believe there is almost a hypnotic side to black diamonds. I like everything that is ambivalent, women and men, ying and yang, and in diamonds, white and black. Opposites attract.

Your designs are distinguished with sharp edges. Is there any particular message behind this trend?

I have always been a fan of Greek architecture and pure forms of shapes. I like geometric shapes which you can find throughout all of my collections. I have never been one to create jewellery focusing on flowers and love hearts, I like an edge. I’m inspired by shapes that fit together as it’s a real seduction game between two shapes, two people! 

How are your designs received in the Gulf region? And how far we are from having the first Akillis Boutique in the Middle East?

The designs are perceived as different, modern and rock. Our customers are constantly looking for new products and designs, which is why there is strong interest in innovative collections from AKILLIS. We are planning on opening a flagship store in the Middle East in the next few years however at the moment we’re proud to have 8 points of sale in the region already!

Retail business is changing and it’s changing to meet the global customers’ requirements.  What is Akillis plan for the future e-commerce?

E-commerce has been put to the forefront more than ever due to the recent global crisis and we are currently working on a new version of our website which will allow our customers to purchase online with ease… We will be launching this first in Europe by Fall 2020, and the rest of the world will follow. Until then, our pieces are available on ounass.ae for our beloved Middle East clients.

 
 
 

Market News

 

Richemont announces Quarterly Sales

As expected from the current sanitary situation, lockdown policies and closure of manufactures during the confinement, revenues a dropping massively for Richemont with sales down almost by half compared to the previous year. Richemont Group has the specificity to start its fiscal year on April 1st, meaning that the first-quarter 2020 results account for the month of April, May and June 2020… Right in the middle of what’s today known as one of the worse sanitary and economical situations ever known. Richemont reported sales down by 47%, impacted mostly by the Coronavirus pandemic – sales dropped from EUR 3,740 million for the first quarter 2019 to EUR 1,993 million for the first quarter 2020. The Group accounts double-digit sale decline “across all regions, distribution channels and business areas due to widespread temporary store and distribution centre closures, a halt in tourism and subdued consumer sentiment in many markets.”

 

Rolex to debut new models for 2020

After announcing in April that it would delay the release of its novelties, Rolex has confirmed that it will be debuting new 2020 models during the first week of September. The watch community had speculated that perhaps neither Rolex or Patek Philippe would be releasing any watches at all this year - as the industries top leaders, the two brands often follow the other's lead. Patek Philippe also announced it was delaying product releases indefinitely in April, but ended up debuting the new Ref. 6007A to celebrate the opening of its new manufacture in June and rumor has it there are more Patek models to come, possibly this month.

 
 

Company News

 

Eberhard & Co. at Phillips Auctions

A precious Eberhard & Co. chronograph, produced in 1939, was one of the main protagonists of the Phillips auction on June 28th, and was sold at 60,000 CHF. It is a prestigious and rare yellow gold watch, with a 39 mm diameter case, an argenté dial with three counters and a split-seconds device to measure intermediate times. Preserved in absolutely astounding and virtually new-old-stock condition, the present timepiece is a true time capsule. Displaying powerful and defined lugs, it is unspoiled and barely worn despite being over 70 years of age. It most notably features a split seconds mechanism - among the most prestigious and complicated of all chronograph movements.

 

MR PORTER launches the limited edition RESSENCE Type 1 Slim X Anniversary Edition

MR PORTER is pleased to partner with RESSENCE to launch the limited edition Type 1 Slim X 10th Anniversary Watch. To celebrate 10 years, RESSENCE has created a bold new take on its revolutionary Type 1 Slim – introducing the Type 1 Slim X. This is the first of four limited-edition RESSENCE watches, all limited to just 40 pieces: together they will comprise “Collection X”. A brand new colour: olive green, has been applied to the dial in two different finishes, serving as a subtle day/night indicator. Belgian industrial designer Mr. Benoît Mintiens founded RESSENCE in order to reimagine the elements essential to luxury watchmaking. The label’s name aptly fuses “renaissance” and “essence” to reflect that concept.

 
 

Product Launch

 

Patek Philippe unveils its new models

With the enrichment of the current collection by three models – the new Ref. 5303 as the first Patek Philippe minute repeater that presents the striking mechanism on the dial side as well as a reinterpretation of the legendary Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph and the redesigned classic Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph – the Genevan manufacture yet again leverages its virtuosity in the king’s class of watchmaking artistry.  These three timepieces represent a perfect meld of tradition and innovation. Paired with beautiful finesse in looks and features, they enrich the already extensive lineup of grand complications.

 

Blancpain introduces Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition

With the creation of the emblematic Fifty Fathoms diver's watch in the early 1950s, Blancpain played a leading role in the discovery of the splendours of the underwater world. Since then, the House has been actively committed to the exploration and protection of the oceans. The most recent initiative supported by its Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC) program is devoted to the study of the great hammerhead shark in French Polynesia. As a continuation of this project, Blancpain is now dedicating a diver's watch issued in a 50-piece special series – the Bathyscaphe Mokarran Limited Edition – to this majestic predator. This model will be available exclusively in Blancpain boutiques in New York and Las Vegas, USA.

 

H. Moser & Cie releases new bold model

True to its name, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red is a pioneering timepiece with a spirit of adventure. Equipped with an attractive yet durable steel case, this intrepid beauty is designed to tackle any situation, thriving as well off the beaten track as it does in daily life. For this bold-looking model, H. Moser & Cie. chose a brand-new dial, set to turn heads with its warm and vibrant tones: the Swiss Mad Red fumé. With its strong character, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red is designed to appeal to the connoisseur. Its dial is literally mesmerising. As rare in nature as it is in Haute Horlogerie, red is synonymous with life, power and passion. Protected by a domed sapphire crystal, the dial of the Swiss Mad Red fumé is equipped with faceted indices, topped with Superluminova®-filled dots, as are the hour and minute hands, which are partially skeletonised.

 

Glashütte Original presents Senator Chronometer Limited Edition

Memories of the famous Glashütte marine chronometers of the past come to mind when one looks at the Senator Chronometer - Limited Edition from Glashütte Original. The masterpiece, limited to 25 pieces, is presented in a newly designed white gold case whose bezel takes the characteristic concave shape of historic marine chronometers. Like its highly accurate predecessors of the 19th and 20th centuries, this chronometer, too, is distinguished by proven rate precision, perfect legibility and exceptional aesthetics. The year 2020 brings a particularly exquisite and precious follow-up model featuring not only a white gold case but a dial in solid gold and a gold-plated manufactory movement with refined decorative finishes.

 

Franck Muller launches Vanguard Skeleton Swiss Limited Edition

Paying homage to Switzerland, the colors that adorn this collection recall the pure white and intense red of the Swiss flag. The Vanguard Skeleton Swiss Limited Edition is housed in a hand polished Vanguard titanium case, with white enamel coating. Its features a white alligator strap with red stiches on the side that perfectly compliment the hypnotic red anodized aluminum bridges of the movement. This limited edition is available from now and exclusively in our emblematic flagship store in Geneva, with the possibility of shipping worldwide.

 

Dreaming of California by Czapek & Cie

Czapek & Cie presented the latest addition to the Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph collection, inspired by the very ?rst modern watch of the brand. The California Dreamin’ features a Californian style dial with a grené ?nish and it’s powered by the 5Hz COSC-certi?ed Czapek SXH3 caliber. Today, the Czapek Design Study Chronograph serves as an inspiration for the Faubourg de Cracovie California Dreamin’, a steel chronograph featuring a 41.5mm case and an anthracite electroplated brass California dial: the SuperLuminova® coated hour markers are in Roman numerals from X to II and Arabic from 4 to 8. The California dial is an unusual choice for a modern timepiece, whose origins are part of the ‘mysteries’ of watchmaking: nobody really knows why this type of dials are named after the West Coast state.

 

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic collection

Three unprecedented timepieces join the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic collection. The Baumatic BM14 in-house calibre embodies the full expertise and enthusiasm that has driven Baume & Mercier to create new models.  The bridges feature a beaded finish, while the baseplate is sand-blasted and snailed. The bidirectionally wound oscillating mass is visible through a sapphire caseback, openworked and decorated with traditional Côtes de Genève designs. These new pieces reinforce the traditional watch character of this elegant, timeless collection.

 

KUDOKE 2 - Nocturne

After the incredible success of the award-winning watch KUDOKE 2 presented last year, Stefan Kudoke now introduces an enchanting limited edition of this model in 2020. While the original KUDOKE 2 shines with a silver-white dial, this year‘s limited edition is grounded in a new galvano-anthracite dial that evokes the night sky of the extraordinary 24-hour display at 12 o‘clock. This watch face changes dramatically from light grey to black and white, depending on lighting conditions. The hand-engraved, domed sky disc is galvanically treated in an elaborate process with the colors of yellow gold and black and white rhodium. Polished hands together with applied rhodium-plated chapter rings form the frame that is at once contrasting and consonant with the nocturnal tones of this very special piece in the KUDOKE HANDwerk line. Matching the year, only 20 pieces of this special watch are available worldwide.

 
 

Exhibitions & Events

 

GJEPC Leadership represents Gem & Jewellery Industry concerns to Hon’ble FM

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council’s Chairman Colin Shah, Vice Chairman Vipul Shah, and Executive Director Sabyasachi Ray held a video meeting with the Hon’ble Finance Minister, Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman on 6th July, and made a presentation on the critical issues concerning the gem and jewellery industry. Some of the concerns presented during the meeting included, E-commerce policy for the gem and jewellery sector; making MyKYCBank platform mandatory for all gem and jewellery entities; sale of rough diamonds in India by miners to Special Notified Zones (SNZs); requested a clarification on Online Equalisation Levy for B2B international diamond auctions; reduction in import duty on polished diamonds, and Gold Monetisation scheme, amongst others.

 
 
 
 

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