Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve

Interviews

Wilhelm Schmid, CEO Lange Uhren GmbH: A. Lange & Söhne holds the number one position of German “luxury brands”

What are your brand’s “star” debuts for the SIHH 2017?

Our strength to explore new dimensions in the field of horological complications is ideally reflected in our debut collection. It consists of timepieces that are prime examples of a decidedly classical yet sophisticated approach to fine watchmaking as well as examples of our ambition to never stand still.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2017?

We are confident that our new timepieces will receive a lot of media attention and enjoy a high level of demand among watch connoisseurs.

Did your export figures increase in the Middle East for 2016?

Over the years, we have continuously expanded our position in the Middle East, and the last year was no exception. In 2016, we have seen a stable development in the region.

Describe your relationship with collectors in the Middle East?

Our customers in the Middle East are part of a growing worldwide community of knowledgeable watch aficionados who share a love for mechanical perfection and consummate craftsmanship. We maintain direct and close relationships with A. Lange & Söhne collectors in the region and many of them have visited our premises in Saxony.

How would you describe the fine watchmaking industry today and where would you position your brand?

When looking at the development of the watch industry over a longer period, there is good reason to be optimistic. After times of temporary weakness, it has always recovered quickly. We believe in the long-term and sustainable success of fine mechanical timepieces because they fulfil the desire for products that have a soul and represent a real value. Since ten years, A. Lange & Söhne holds the number one position of German “luxury brands”, ranked by the magazine “Wirtschaftswoche”. On a global scale, Lange also ranks among the most appreciated brands.

How do you see the growth potential of women’s complications?

There are an increasing number of women with a passion for mechanical watches. We notice indeed that more and more ladies express their interest in classical timepieces, not focussing on jewels or other design elements but rather on mechanical features.

What essential elements of horlogerie should people look for when looking to buy a good timepiece?

A good timepiece should embody a well-balanced blend of excellent and timeless design, innovative technology, ultimate precision as well as the finest of materials and highest degree of craftsmanship. Watches that live up these standards offer the best preconditions to maintain or even increase in value.

What are your brands priorities for 2017?

Our new manufactory building and the 2016 collection set key milestones that have proven our innovative power and future orientation. We will continue along this path in 2017. Our new models have already set the tone for this.

Product Launch

Roger Dubuis Ties with Pirelli

Roger Dubuis has announced its newest watch and it's a partnership with racing tire maker Pirelli. The two brands have teamed up to create the new and blue Excalibur Spider Pirelli with double flying tourbillon in a limited series of just eight pieces.

The watch is supported with a double flying tourbillon with the carriages placed side by side within a highly skeletonized movement, caliber RD105SQ which is made of 365 parts. The tourbillons both act as sub-seconds registers and are surrounded by seconds tracks that are inspired by speedometers. Fittingly, the power reserve is inspired by racing car fuel gauges. The case measures 47mm and is made of black DLC-coated titanium with blue rubber accents the official Pirelli color. The retail price of this watch is 280,000 CHF, the owners will receive an invitation to a two-day VIP motorsports event as guests of Pirelli.

Greubel Forsey unveils the New Universe of Mechanical Nano

Greubel Forsey’s research in Mechanical Nano has led to remarkable discoveries, validated by laboratory tests that point the way to this new universe. The technology of Mechanical Nano opens up limitless horizons, thanks to these intrinsic characteristics: requiring only a reduced number of working parts, resulting in a very much smaller volume with incredibly low energy consumption. Greubel Forsey announced that it now working on the first Mechanical Nano timepiece, which will be unveiled in the near future.

Jaeger-LeCoultre reveals Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time

Jaeger-LeCoultre has released a new addition to the Geophysic collection – the Tourbillon Universal Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre took the watch a step further by adding a flying tourbillon. The case is solid platinum and measures a whopping 43.5mm in diameter and 11.24mm in height. The dial is the familiar blue lacquered guilloché with a flattened image of the world as the focal point. There is an outer ring featuring 24 cities and a secondary ring outside that with 24-hour indication. The movement is the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 948, which is automatic with a solid 22-carat pink gold winding rotor and a 48-hour power reserve.

Parmigiani Fleurier redesigns the Toric Chronomètre

Parmigiani Fleurier completely redesigned the Toric, one of the brand's most iconic models. The Toric Chronomètre is evidenced by the certification number engraved on the PF331 proprietary calibre, assembled with components of the highest quality. The case is made from white gold or red gold, has been redesign. This hand-crafted finish consists of creating a unique textured background by brushing the surface of the dial with a mixture of salt and silver powder. This piece comes with a black Alligator strap.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase and Retrograde Date associates the Pure Lines

The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony moon phase and retrograde date is an invitation to raise our gaze skywards. This new timepiece, with its pure lines typical of the Patrimony collection, features a dial on which the cycle and age of the moon are reproduced on a display that will require no corrections for 122 years. Vacheron Constantin is combining this elegant complication with a retrograde date indication, graduated from 1 to 31 across the upper dial arc. Equipped with a Manufacture movement, the Patrimony moon phase and retrograde date is certified by the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, a sure token of excellence.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels™ Papillon Automate Brings Nature to Life

A world of bucolic poetry reveals itself beneath the glass of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels™ Papillon Automate dial, punctuated by a delicate butterfly settled on a flow. When the watch is not being worn, the butterfly is set in motion 19 time per hour at irregular intervals, reaching a total of up to a hundred beats. The rhythm speeds up when the watch is on the wrist, with the same number of beats being reached over a shorter period.

Panerai Manufacture Reproduces 1930’s Radiomir Brevettato

Officine Panerai introduced two Special Editions Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio models - PAM685 and PAM687. The case is made of stainless steel (AISI 316L) and it is the same classic size as that of vintage Panerai watches, 47 mm in diameter. The dial is protected by a Plexiglas crystal, while the sapphire crystal case back showcases the P.3000 hand-wound mechanical movement with its large, brushed finish bridges covering the greater part of the wheelwork, a large balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter and two spring barrels offering a power reserve of three days.

Cartier reveals its Complex Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon

The Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is the Cartier watch that combines the brand’s famed “mystery” concept with the audibly appealing chiming mechanism. The watch is houses the 9407 MC caliber with a patented flying double-axis tourbillon — with first rotation in one minute and second rotation in five. The watch measures just 11.15mm in thickness, which is the brand’s slimmest double complication to date. Cartier eliminated a dial and created the case of titanium for louder reverberation.

Montblanc unveils New TimeWalker Collection

The new Montblanc TimeWalker collection represents a strong contemporary expression of the professional sport chronograph with a 43 mm case size that has become a standard size for Montblanc’s performance timepieces. all the Montblanc TimeWalker models undergo over 500 hours of controls, with specific testing and general operating evaluation under extreme conditions. To also ensure sporting performance in terms of waterproofness, all the models are water-resistant to 100 metres.

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