Interview with Gaia Repossi, Artistic Director of Repossi Joailliers
fiogf49gjkf0d How would you describe your personal style? How does that manifest in your designs?
I would simply say that my style might be personal – that’s the best way to describe it. My work does not reflect a style but linearity in design that should last and be able to be continued.
Does your experience in art ever influence what you do with the jewelry? In what way?
Yes, of course. I treat my jewelry as sculptures, with an awareness and respect for the craft and the reality of the body, with a constricted sort of perfectionism adapted on the ergonomy of the body shapes.
Are there specific women you have in mind when you're designing, or is it more an idea of women in general?
It's more an idea of a silhouette, even more than a woman. It is more an imaginary universe around which the collection is developed and the references come before the shape and the actual silhouette that is a patron I work on.
How do you uphold the tradition of your family's house while still bringing in this artistic, cool, young spirit?
By still using the traditional crafts and asking them to evolve with new techniques and shapes make the whole combination evolve. The very new collections and pieces are new difficult challenge for the atelier, as well as for the market. Although renewal is essential, I would not approach my work in a different way. It would lead to stagnant designs and people would lose interest. It's important to promote these crafts and give them a chance for continuity beyond the necessity of evolving designs as well.
What is your favorite jewellery piece?
Rings, I think; they draw elegantly on the hands like no other piece. I am very proud of the Berbere ring of course. Cuffs have always been a medium of expression I always like to approach in wide and loud shapes.
In your opinion, what jewellery piece boosts a woman’s femininity?
A piece that elongates and follows the symmetry of the body. A jewel is not gracious and takes out a woman's femininity when it's bulky and suffocates or visually hides what matters the most – the woman wearing it.
What should every woman have in her jewellery box?
A double ring, a posh Berbere ring or a four row diamond Berbere ring. Some rose gold because it will look like a second skin jewel and will sparkle in a subtle way. And if she is not into rings, a simple Berbere small ear cuff.
In your opinion as an artist and a female, what are the best jewellery designs?
I like tribal or ancient references because there was this awareness we've lost in the western cultures of the symmetry of the body. Also, jewels which are interesting for their shapes or design more than for their value.
You have studied anthropological studies, what culture has influenced your work the most?
African and Northern African, mostly the nomadic Berberian tribes for their almost sensual appeal as well as their very radical modernity in terms of body ornament which I find elegant and refined.
Have you ever been to the Arab world, did the Arabian culture and art influence you with anything?
Yes, the Moucharaby Islamic influence and Mughal architecture were a true revelation to the point that I now enjoy patterns from industrial fences whenever the reference comes to my mind. And as I told you previously, the nomadic tribes were indeed an inspiration.
How did your designs evolve since you joined your family’s Jewellery house?
I tend to lighten the weight obsessively; the lines are purer, but they might be very complex again.
Did you have another choice than joining the family business?
I always say I would have been a renowned painter growing up. I used to paint passionately.
What part of the design process do you enjoy the most?
I would say the final result because I don't have peace before the item is not good enough. But I also enjoy the first part before it's even in process because that's when I see it [visualize it].
Do you wear your designs?
I wear the rings everyday yes, for some reason the ones that became the best sellers. Those feel timeless and work the most.
What are the upcoming trends?
I would say cleaner lines, graphic and complex patterns and wider stones set in a very complex way, we should be presenting soon. Also, fresh colours among the metals and profile variations among my favorite pieces.
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