Excerpts from the interview with Antonio Calce - CEO Greubel Forsey; Jewellery & Watches Industries growth forecast till 2025; BASELWORLD is back in 2022

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Excerpts from the interview with Antonio Calce - CEO Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey has built incredible value into the brand that you can’t imagine since its establishment when Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey teamed up and launched Greubel Forsey in 2004 in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

In 2020, Antonio Calce was appointed the CEO and Executive Board Member of Greubel Forsey after spending some 27 years in the Swiss watch industry.

Recently, AWJ met with Mr. Calce who is determine to create more brand awareness and value perception to Greubel Forsey globally and explained his next big expansion plan for 2021 and beyond. 

Excerpts from the interview with Antonio Calce - CEO Greubel Forsey:

In 2020, you were appointed as the CEO & Executive Board Member of Greubel Forsey after spending some 27 years in the Swiss watch industry. Obviously, the industry is currently facing some challenges. What “is or are” the current challenge(s) for you as the CEO of Greubel Forsey at the moment? In other words what are your priorities for the brand? 

When I joined Greubel Forsey, one year ago, Robert and I had some long discussions and we shared the same position on the fact that all the beautiful creativity and products needed to be incorporated in a strategic border in order to have a better maturity. The first step for us is to rethink our product offer. We should develop products that fit into a new price segment, between 200’000 to 300’000 CHF with more modernity in terms of design, case and bracelets, while maintaining excellence in our calibers.
Finally, we are working on improving our brand awareness by elaborating a strong marketing strategy. Foundations are here, we just need to put all those new ideas in place. 

During the recent Watches & Wonders show you revealed the new GMT with GF first steel strap. Is this just the beginning of more sports watches with variety of steel straps and sports directions?

We will not only stick to sport watches because we are not a sports brand. However, as mentioned before, what we want at Greubel Forsey is to work on more modern and contemporary watches.
The product offer that we will have these upcoming months will be a big evolution and will have a strong impact on our distribution. 

Do we expect more releases from GF during the course of the year?

Yes, you can! For example, there will be a big launch in November in preparation of the 2022 strategy and in the near future a big evolution in our ethical choices.

We have seen watch brands creating high complications linked to the engines of luxury car brands. Given your mastery in high complication movements, can you reveal any future plans of such a car association? 

It is not planned for the moment. We are first reinforcing the marketing and communication department. In the past, we weren’t using the word “marketing”. However, now we are working on a real marketing plan with strategical launches for 2022. We are recruiting people in the team, for example, a PR Officer started beginning of June, a Digital Manager a few months ago.
The major move we will do in marketing now is to reinforce our presence on digital. This is why we are going to do a digital campaign on Instagram, with small movies. This campaign will cover more than 15 cities worldwide such as Dubai, Mexico, Los Angeles, London, Shanghai and many more. We want with this campaign to increase our brand awareness and reach potential customers. Then, in September, we will launch a brand new website with a user experience that we do not have for the moment. Next year, we will organize big events for our major launches, and the entire communication for these will be reworked. It was important in the past to capitalize on craftsmanship, but today, the younger generation wants to feel emotions towards communication. Customers want to live experiences, and you cannot find this in a communication that is focused only on hand finishing. It will always be part of our DNA, but we will communicate differently about it.

We have witnessed a new genderless trend in the market. GF appears as a very masculine brand. Isn’t this too segmenting for your development?

At Greubel Forsey, we have always been focused on manufacturing exceptional calibers, and it led us to create imposing timepieces. When you know how everything is implemented in our Garde-Temps, it is just amazing. However, we are working on some new products and we will launch our first chronograph, measuring 36 millimeters, in 2023. We will also be using nano technology in 2024 for our 20th anniversary and we would like to integrate it to our lady collection. 

Where would be the next big expansion plan for the brand?

The major change that will be done is that we will increase our volume without compromising the quality of the finishing, and this is a big challenge for Greubel Forsey. Then, what will be important following this change is to work on our distribution. Today, we have too many POS and we are planning to reduce them by half in the upcoming years in order to open some flagships instead. Robert Greubel and I are convinced that with the new product offer and the new communication strategy, this goal will be possible to reach. 

Second hand, re-sale, auction is a big topic among your targeted audience. How do you ensure your watches keep their values?

We hear more and more about second hand, and at Greubel Forsey we follow this topic very carefully because our timepieces are considered as art pieces! We don’t think that our products have a limited longevity, in the contrary, we think that the value of our watches do not phase out through the years. It is a very important subject and this is why we are working on a special page on our new website, where we will promote second hand Garde-Temps. It will be available at the end of the year, stay tuned! 

How important is the Middle East markets for Greubel Forsey? And how important is to create a personal relationship in promoting such a high-end watch brand? 

The Middle East market is one of the most important markets for our brand. We have a good presence in this region and a good clientele with whom we have a strong relationship. We will continue to sustain this extraordinary relationship and further build and satisfy the high-net-worth individuals, watch lovers and watch connoisseurs in this important region.
 
 
 

Market News

 

Jewellery & Watches Industries growth forecast till 2025

Business of Fashion and McKinsey have collaborated on five annual State of Fashion reports analyzing the global fashion industry and the trends shaping it. This report is part of a special-edition series and takes a deep dive into fine jewellery and watches over a five-year time horizon. Through extensive executive interviews, analysis of public and private companies, and proprietary insights, the report identifies six seismic shifts that will shape value pools in the fine jewellery and premium to ultra-luxury watches industries through 2025. With combined annual sales of more than $330 billion, fine jewellery and premium to ultra-luxury watches are an important part of the global luxury economy. As uncertainty caused by the COVID-19 pandemic rippled across the globe and short-circuited demand, the fine jewellery and watches industries suffered revenue declines of 10 to 15 percent and 25 to 30 percent, respectively, putting further strain on slow-to-adapt players and crystalizing emerging trends in the market. According to McKinsey & Company the Jewellery and Watches industries could grow globally at 3-4 % per year for fine Jewellery and 1-3% per year for watches between now and 2025.
 

BASELWORLD is back in 2022

BASELWORLD was held for the last time in 2019. Now it is back in March/April 2022, and it will be very different as revealed during an online press conference by BASELWORLD Managing Director Michel Loris-Melikoff. Instead of focusing on the spectacular appearance of luxury brands in the watch, jewellery and gemstone sector, the new BASELWORLD will primarily be a B2B platform in the mid-range luxury segment. The future concept combines trends in the experience marketing market with the needs of the entire community in the mid- and high-end segment of the watch, jewellery and gemstone industry.  
 

LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc Paris to open its doors this September

Bathed in light, from intimate hideaways to big city wonders: 72 accommodations - 26 rooms, 46 suites - and 4 restaurants. Cheval Blanc Paris comes to life thanks to passionate visionaries, artisans and artists. Remodelled by architect Edouard François, the listed building’s décor was reimagined by architect Peter Marino in the style of a Parisian residence, with the help of exceptionally skilled artists and craftsmen.  Along with their brigade, Arnaud Donckele, Chef of the gastronomic restaurant, and Maxime Frédéric, Pastry Chef, invite diners to embark on a journey of flavours. The Dior Spa Cheval Blanc Paris boasts 6 treatment rooms for bespoke rituals, a gently rippling swimming pool and state-of-the-art exercise facilities. Cheval Blanc Paris will open on September 7, 2021.
 

Gold and jewellery recommence from Italy

The gold-jewellery market is confidently looking at the coming edition of VOS Vicenzaoro September - The Jewellery Boutique Show, the international jewellery show organized by IEG - Italian Exhibition Group, live at last, from 10th to 14th September 2021, in Italy, at Vicenza, together with T.Gold, the show for machinery and the most innovative technologies applied to jewellery processing, and VOVintage, the event specifically for high-quality vintage watches. Fope, Roberto Coin, Crivelli, Bros Manifatture, Unoaerre, Graziella Group, Chrysos, Karizia, World Diamond Group are among the big names already booked in. The VBI - Vicenzaoro Buyer Index, which periodically tracks the attitudes of a representative panel of jewellery insiders from all over the world, highlighted in June that confidence in future business has more than doubled compared to last year.  Growing equally fast is the willingness of buyers from the Middle East and North America, as well as Europe and Italy, to take part in a physically-attended VOS.
 

The Luxury Closet raises $14 million growth capital

The Luxury Closet announced it has secured a $14 million equity capital raise in a round led by GMP Investments, with participation from regional and international investors including HB Investments, Nazer Group, MEVP, and MLM Investment Company. The capital raised will accelerate The Luxury Closet’s already robust global growth with the company set to magnify its presence in markets outside the UAE and execute on a clear strategy to be a leader within the international high-end luxury resale market. The resale industry has witnessed remarkable growth in the past few years with companies like The Real Real, Poshmark and Thredup debuting on the public stock markets. The rise of pre-owned luxury fashion marks a shift amid the sustainability movement. Consumer patterns are shifting towards a more conscious and sustainable approach to fashion. 
 
 

Company News

 

Bvlgari presents “Magnifica” High-Jewelry show in Milan

Bvlgari continues to seduce and fascinate with its new “Magnifica” high-jewelry collection, officially unveiled during the Roman jeweler’s Brand Event, staged for the first time in Milan on June 3-4. A celebration of Italian magnificence, the show is introduced by all-time most successful classical artist of all the time, legendary tenor Andrea Bocelli offering his own unique interpretation in the Italian language of Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy / Inno alla Gioia”. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II does not only serve as the spectacular stage for Bocelli and Venezi’s performances, but also stands out as the exclusive catwalk for a movie-like runway show interpreted by an outstanding diverse casting of supermodels: Lily Aldridge, Vittoria Ceretti, He Cong, Blesnya Minher and Solange Smith.
 

Chopard at the 2021 '1000 Miglia'

For the 34th consecutive year, Chopard served as world sponsor and official timekeeper to the 1000 Miglia rally. The 2021 edition was flagged-away beneath the warm Italian sun on Wednesday 16 June, with 341 cars reaching the finish line four days later on the Viale Venezia, after conquering the 1,000 miles of the course. Once again this year, Chopard Co-President and long-standing 1000 Miglia competitor Karl-Friedrich Scheufele demonstrated his unwavering passion for driving classic cars by taking his place on the start ramp, behind the wheel of the distinctive, strawberry-red Mercedes-Benz 300SL 'Gullwing'. Beside him was motorsport legend and long-term friend of the Maison Jacky Ickx, six-times Le Mans winner. 
 

Greubel Forsey to completely eliminate animal leather from its straps

Greubel Forsey announced that it will completely eliminate animal leather from its straps. Starting January 1, 2022, 100% of Greubel Forsey straps will be crafted from high quality plant-based materials. This is a first for the brand, and a first in the watch industry. This decision represents a paradigm shift in the industry. Greubel Forsey does not compromise on quality and today, the Atelier yet again confirms its convictions. Indeed, “the technical offer for plant-based straps is mature, and our clients are by nature forward-thinking and welcoming of innovation. We want to be in line with their world vision and we are delighted to write a new chapter of responsible and sustainable High-end Watchmaking” says Antonio Calce, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Board Member.
 

A. Lange & Söhne exclusive brand Salon in Geneva

A. Lange & Söhne is opening an exclusive brand salon in June 2021 in the historic city centre of Geneva. It will give customers the opportunity to explore and purchase captivating timepieces from the tradition-steeped Saxon manufactory by appointment in a personal atmosphere. The new sales concept at the centre of Swiss precision watchmaking is a first for A. Lange & Söhne. In individually arranged consultation appointments, watch lovers can further familiarise themselves with the models they are interested in and have the special features explained in detail. In addition, the extraordinary location is also suitable for small-scale customer events.
 

Antiquorum to present Rare Trio of Royal Oak Models for Monaco Auction

Considered the very first luxury steel sports watch, the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak will celebrate its 50th anniversary in just 6 months. In anticipation of this milestone, Antiquorum has gathered a very special and rare trio of Royal Oak models for its upcoming auction at the Hôtel de Paris in Monte Carlo, Monaco, on Wednesday, July 21st, 2021. The Royal Oak has taken many forms since its creation in 1972 and has become a deeply sought-after model on the vintage watch market. During this auction in Monaco, two rare Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars in great condition will go under the hammer, as well as an “umarked” steel Royal Oak with black tapisserie dial from 1976, entrusted to Antiquorum from the original owner.  
 

Presenting the “KB2” clock created by Philippe Lebru and Alain Silberstein

For more than 30 years, Philippe Lebru and Alain Silberstein have been two of the not-to-be-missed figures of French mechanical watchmaking.  In March 2021, they joined forces to launch the “KB2” clock (short for Kontwaz Bauhaus 2); a fun, refreshing co-creation. Its dial and hands play on primary colours and geometrical shapes, sufficient on their own to assert the inimitable style that brought Alain Silberstein his international success. Just 88 “KB2” clocks will be released, exhibited and brought to sale, in the springtime at UTINAM gallery in Besançon, at the M.A.D. mechanical art galleries in Geneva, Dubai, Hong Kong and Taipei and via their e-shops.
 

Maurice Lacroix welcomes Spanish professional badminton player Carolina Marín

Maurice Lacroix welcomed Spanish badminton player, Carolina Marín to the ML Crew. Carolina, a multiple world champion and Olympic gold medalist, joins a group of talented individuals from around the globe who share an affinity with the Maurice Lacroix brand. Carolina Marín was born in Huelva, Spain but has spent many years living in Madrid. Here she hones her badminton skills and trains in the gym twice per day. In her childhood, Carolina enjoyed flamenco and badminton, but at the age of 12 she had to choose and elected to focus on the latter. She is clearly driven, manifest by her decision to leave her friends and family, aged just 14, and pursue her dream of Olympic glory. Carolina received a gold medal at the Olympics in 2016 and won the world championships in 2018.
 

Introducing Klaudyna Rzad London

Klaudyna Rzad is an eponymous, statement jewellery brand founded by the talented designer, Klaudyna Rzad. Bringing to the forefront quality and distinctive simplicity, the label focuses on creating timeless, unisex jewellery pieces. Best described as strong and utterly arresting, each piece in the collection transcends the barriers of time and trends. The contemporary luxury label focuses on creating statement tennis bracelets from diamond-cut, round 14-Carat gold beads; which are adjustable and versatile. This is coupled with an ethos to create pieces which are morally and ethically made as per Italy's jewellery manufacturing regulations. Based on playfully maximizing the natural qualities of materials, the brand's designs focus on the simplest and purest of forms. 
 
 

Product Launch

 

Hope Probe Tourbillon by Louis Moinet

Hope Probe Tourbillon is a new one-of-a-kind creation dedicated to the extraordinary UAE space mission. Based on a technology exclusive to Louis Moinet, this satellite tourbillon® contains an authentic meteorite fragment from the Moon and genuine Martian meteorite dust. Beautifully depicted on a blue dial, the map of the Northern hemisphere constellations is crafted using a special miniature painting on mother-of-pearl technique. The green tourbillon carriage, measuring an exceptional 13.59 mm in diameter, is balanced by means of a Mars planet rotating around it and incrusted with genuine Mars meteorite dust. A hand-painted depiction of the Hope Probe appears on the black aventurine front plate, inlaid with a genuine lunar meteorite fragment – as too is the black rear plate featuring a hand-painted UAE astronaut.
 

TUDOR unveils Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze - Boutique Edition

Bolstered by its experience using bronze, TUDOR continues its exploration of this emblematic material with its characteristic ageing, boldly opting for a total bronze look. A new colour palette, based on a rich "brown-bronze" tone, adorns the dial and bezel of a divers' watch whose naval inspiration can be seen in every detail. A timepiece with an uncompromising design, available exclusively in around fifty TUDOR boutiques throughout the world, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model also offers high technical performance thanks to its Manufacture Calibre MT5400.
 

CHANEL presents Electro Capsule Collection

In the 1990s, this music genre offered a world that was radically different and original, reflecting the night scene and the atmosphere in which it emerged. Electronic music moved beyond the confines of the music world and gave rise to an authentic aesthetic culture. Performance became all-encompassing, a sensory, graphic experience transcending the effects of sound. Inextricably linked with the venues in which it unfolded, Electro culture grew into a fully-fledged artistic genre.
CHANEL Electro Capsule Collection features the J12 ELECTRO, the Première ELECTRO, the Première ELECTRO Box, the Code Coco ELECTRO and the Boy·Friend ELECTRO.
 

Presenting the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth

Richard Mille is determined to support the stunning event through trying times. Richard Mille presents a new 80 limited pieces edition, the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth, a proof of its long-term commitment to one of the world’s leading regattas, through thick and thin. Every edition of Les Voiles has seen the winner receive a Richard Mille watch. With no event this year the brand deemed it the obligation of Richard Mille to donate all the proceeds of the sale of an RM 60-01 to local causes in St Barths. The brand is in talks with the authorities to decide together which projects could benefit from this whether it be for local health facilities or environmental projects.
 

NORQAIN launches its two new Independence 21 Models

NORQAIN has launched two striking new additions to our Independence collection – one with a scratched midnight blue dial and the other with a skeletonized movement. A tribute to NORQAIN’s passion for watchmaking, a key ingredient in the family-owned brand’s recipe for success, the skeletonized Independence 21 model is a notable premiere. It is the first NORQAIN timepiece with a skeletonized movement. Underscoring its exclusivity, only 100 pieces of this impressive timepiece will be produced. Every single model of this Independence 21 timepiece is one of a kind. Each one of the 200 midnight blue dials is brushed by hand, which results in a unique scratched pattern that cannot be duplicated – no two pieces are alike. The exceptional timekeeping quality of each watch is the same, thanks to the Manufacture Calibre NN20/1 with 70-hour power reserve.
 

Fabergé introduces the Visionnaire DTZ Dynamist Watch

Fabergé has introduced the latest addition to the Visionnaire collection, the DTZ Dynamist watch – a new creation fusing the energy of movement with an element of surprise. The Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ Watch was previously honoured with an award at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), within the category ‘Travel Time’, for its outstanding craftmanship enabling dual time zone functionality. This new Visionnaire DTZ Dynamist features a movement developed exclusively for Fabergé by Agenhor, one of the top names in the horological industry; this extraordinary timepiece merges modern technology with Fabergé’s heritage and quest for innovation. The contemporary design boasts a case comprised of ceramic and titanium, complemented by a classic black fascia.
 

Moritz Grossmann presents two limited edition models featuring manually crafted gold hands

Moritz Grossmann has unveiled two new models, the HAMATIC VINTAGE and the TOURBILLON, both featuring handcrafted 750/000 rose gold hands for the first time. The exquisite dials of the two models come in a deep black and beautifully accentuate the fine gold hands. Framed by a rose gold case, the result is a supremely elegant ensemble and the perfect embodiment of Grossmann’s watchmaking artistry. Limited to eight pieces worldwide, the special edition HAMATIC Vintage features a ‘black-or’ dial with long, slender index hands in solid gold. The delicate tip of these hands lends a charming touch to the time display. This new eight-piece limited edition of the Grossmann TOURBILLON also boasts hands made of 750/000 rose gold. Shaped like an elongated rhombus and ending in a wafer-thin tip, the hands have the instrumental character that is the hallmark of the manufactory. 
 

Alpiner4 Automatic

Alpina is now adding two new variations to the Alpiner4. Both incorporate the clean aesthetic of the original designs, allowing 4 pieces of essential time measurement information to be displayed: hours, minutes, seconds and date. The two new dials are totally exclusive. They have been adorned for the first time with horizontal lines and enhanced by a sunray-brushed finish to diffuse the light over their entire surface. With this latest aesthetic development, Alpina continues in its quest to achieve perfect readability, creating a pattern that ideally diffuses the light. Whether recessed or raised, every surface catches it differently and guides it towards the hour markers, crown and date. Helping to open-up the dial and make it easier to read, this technique adds a third dimension to a dial that was until now a flat surface. The two new variations share the same 44 mm diameter, luminescent applied hour markers and luminescent hour and minutes hands. 
 
 
 
 

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