Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve - Day 3

Interviews

Exclusive interview with Wilhelm Schmid, CEO Lange Uhren GmbH

- The TRIPLE SPLIT emphasises our expertise in developing innovative chronographs

- Customers are more attracted by the style of a brand than the latest craze

- The key to success will be to anticipate the needs of upcoming generations of customers

What are your brand’s “star” novelties for the SIHH 2018?
This year, our focus will be on the TRIPLE SPLIT. The first split-seconds chronograph that allows measuring lap times up to 12 hours sets a new benchmark for fine mechanical watchmaking and emphasises our expertise in developing innovative chronographs. Further highlights are the 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange” with stoppable jumping seconds – a tribute to our late company founder – and the SAXONIA OUTSIZE DATE. All three timepieces are equipped with newly developed manufacture calibres.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2018?
With seven debuts and three new calibres we are well prepared for the fair. We expect our new timepieces – especially the TRIPLE SPLIT – to attract a high level of attention among media, dealers and connoisseurs alike.

What are the foreseen trends and directions with watches in 2018?
The watch market is fundamentally different from fashion or accessories. New trends take time to emerge and the development of a new timepiece is a long multi-staged and technology-intensive process, which may take years to be implemented. In the fragmented watch market, leading trends are hard to detect. Customers are more attracted by the style of a brand than the latest craze. In the top segment of the collectors’ market, innovative complications and consummate craftsmanship will continue to be in high demand.

What are your brand’s priorities for 2018?
Our new timepieces are once again characterised by ingenious mechanical solutions, elaborate functionality and striking designs. In keeping with Walter Lange’s motto to “never stand still” we will continue to expand our knowledge and come up with fresh ideas that inspire our customers.

How does your brand approach technology as part of the future of fine watchmaking?
Driving technology advances in fine mechanical watchmaking is one of the pillars of A. Lange & Sohne. The TRIPLE SPLIT is a prime example of this approach. The integration of a rattrapante hour counter increases the measuring range by a multiple and makes the split-seconds chronograph truly usable.

In your opinion, what is about to change in the watch industry (markets & consumer attitude)?
In the past, the watch industry has demonstrated an incredible ability to adapt to changing conditions. I have no doubt that it will also seize the opportunities of the Digital Age. The key to success will be to anticipate the needs of upcoming generations of customers. I am convinced that if the current trend towards digitisation continues, there will be a higher demand for consistent watches that create a bond between the consumer and the people who have made them by hand with skill and passion.

How would you describe your brand performance during 2017 in the Middle East? Did your export figures increase?
On the whole, we can be satisfied with our performance in the region. The Middle East has always been a promising market for A. Lange and Sohne with a continuously growing customer base of watch collectors and enthusiasts.

Product Launch

Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Edouard Bovet Flying Tourbillon

This year marks 200 years since the departure of Edouard Bovet for China, a distinguished milestone in Bovet’s exceptional history and the ties that bound the brand to China for two centuries. To mark this anniversary, Bovet unveils an impressive complication developed and manufactured entirely in-house: a 10-day power reserve, triple time-zone watch with hemispherical Earth maps and flying tourbillon. As a vertically-integrated manufacture, Bovet even produces its own hairsprings at its sister company Dimier. Beyond its impressive list of complications, the watch is a fascinating 3D mechanical microcosm in constant motion: the play of movement, volumes, contrasting materials, colors and finishes is striking.

Richard Mille launches the RM 07-01 in Gem-Set Black Ceramic

With a wide range of models already available, the Ladies’ collection certainly allows any woman to find the right watch for her wrist, however, Richard Mille continues to add to the variety of materials, gem settings and bracelets with an exclusive gem-set ceramic. With this unprecedented marriage of diamond and black ceramic, the brand illustrates its indefatigable determination to develop its offerings for women who are as much fascinated by technicity as by beauty. In addition to its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, black TZP ceramic possesses an extremely fine grain, ensuring a perfect finish with a matte effect. The latter is the outcome of a long and delicate process of milling and micro-shot peening, whereas showcasing the complex shapes of the bezel and case bottom requires the intervention of a finisher, who polishes each angle by hand.

IWC unveils five new limited-edition Portugieser watches

IWC Schaffhausen unveiled five limited-edition Portugieser wrist¬watches as part of the Jubilee collection to celebrate the company’s 150th anniversary. The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” is one of the most technically sophisticated watches in the collection and combines a constant-force tourbillon with a simple moon phase display for the very first time. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years” brings a perpetual calendar together with a tourbillon on the dial for the first time ever. IWC is also launching a Portugieser with a perpetual calendar in the design of the Jubilee collection and fitting the Portugieser Chronograph with an IWC-manufactured calibre. An anniversary edition of the Portugieser Hand-Wound is also being launched for fans of hand-wound watches.

Girard-Perregaux presents Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon

A true technological and aesthetic revolution, the Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon epitomises the contemporary approach to horological complications adopted by the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. Crafted in titanium so as to chime with greater intensity, this 48 mm-diameter model powered by a mechanical manual-winding calibre houses two of the most challenging horological complications: the minute repeater and the tourbillon simultaneously gravitating around three axes.

Christophe Claret launches Maestro Mamba

Christophe Claret is a born provocateur, now venturing into the perilous wilds of the African jungle by placing the voluptuous undulations of one of the world’s most dangerous snakes at the heart of the Maestro watch. Agile, swift and incomparably aggressive, the green Mamba appears ready to strike anyone who comes within reach of its toxic venom. Wrapped around the movement, its undulating hand-engraved body creates a powerful contrast between the tangy green brilliancy of its scales and the matt black shade of the movement. Surging from the intricacies of the movement, between the hours and minutes hands, the MEMO function indicator and the sprung balance, the Mamba defies all challengers with its piercing eyes.

F.P Journe introduces Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

The case of 44 mm diameter and 12 mm thick encloses the new monopoussoir split second chronograph movement with a very large date, made in 18K rose Gold for the Platinum and the red Gold versions and in Aluminium alloy for the Titanium version. The precious metal bracelets are assorted to their respective case. Two new bracelets in Platinum and red Gold with matte finishing have been developed while the Titanium bracelet is identical to the existing lineSport version. Rubber inserts are fixed on the case and the bracelet links to protect the watch from frictions on smooth surface like bumpers of ancient automobiles. The links attached to the case are also articulated to adapt to the different wrist sizes with an adjustable folding clasp in length of approximately 5 mm.

Vortex Gamma Tron by Hautlence

For the Vortex Gamma Tron, Hautlence has chosen a revolutionary composite material hailing from the automotive and aerospace industry: HLLightColor. Charged with ceramic nanotube particles, HLLightColor can be body tinted rather than coated with colour. It can also be made phosphorescent, something which immediately appealed to Hautlence, with the brand using it to accentuate the architectural lines of the case and further underline the references to the graphic universe of science-fiction classic TRON, from which the Vortex Gamma Tron takes its name.

Romain Gauthier presents Insight Micro-Rotor Lady

Insight Micro-Rotor Lady’s hour-minute subdial and small seconds are crafted from mother of pearl exuding a gorgeous iridescent sheen, indications powered by an in-house calibre that boasts a bidirectional micro-rotor made from 22k gold. The front of this oscillating weight is spectacularly decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds of varying sizes. Framed by a cut-out in the mainplate – also adorned with mother of pearl – the sparkling micro-rotor turns fluidly and noiselessly between two bridges, each fitted with a friction-minimising, wear-resistant ruby bearing. However subtly and in whichever direction the micro-rotor swings, it efficiently winds a serially operating double mainspring barrel that, when fully wound, provides a generous 80 hours of power.

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