Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Interview with Mr. Nicolas Garzouzi, CEO Middle East, Audemars Piguet

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Garzouzi: No compromise on quality


Nicolas Garzouzi, CEO of Audemars Piguet for Middle East, says the brand is doing extremely well in the Middle East. The biggest market in the Middle East is the UAE followed by Saudi Arabia; Kuwait and Qatar are also very interesting markets for us and the Sultanate of Oman has a very big potential as well, says Garzouzi. Excerpts from the interview:

You have been with Audemars Piguet for quite a long time. What brought you to the Audemars Piguet brand?

After I graduated in 1992 from HEC in France, I joined the Lebanese distributor of Audemars Piguet in Lebanon. Since I first met with Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus more than 10 years ago, it was love at first sight. Few years later in 2003, we founded Audemars Piguet Moyen-Orient sal, a subsidiary of Audemars Piguet Holding, distributing AP in the Middle East, Africa, and the Caspian Sea markets.

How is Audemars Piguet faring in the Middle East – particularly the Royal Oak?

Audemars Piguet is doing extremely well in the Middle East – even in Dubai, which is more a tourist market, and in Saudi, which is more a domestic market. Like most markets worldwide the Royal Oak and its extreme, the Royal Oak offshore line, represent the bulk of the business. In the sports watches segment of the high-end market, we are but far the leaders of the industry whether in the Middle East or elsewhere.

Which of your watch models are the most popular in the Middle East? And Why?

The Royal Oak offshore line is the most popular model in the Middle East because of its recognizable unique design, virile and sexy look, and surely reliable movement.

How popular are the Haute Joaillerie time pieces in the region?

We manufacture very few pieces of high jewellery watches set with top Wesselton flawless diamonds, Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds or Ceylan sapphires. We also create exceptional pieces made to order for royal courts both for men and ladies.

Do you intend to open more independent Audemars Piguet boutiques in the Middle East?

Middle East currently is the smallest region in the world that concentrates such a number of AP boutiques. We indeed have 6 AP boutiques and will soon open our 7th in Doha.

Could you please describe the Audemars Piguet customer profile in the Middle East?

75% of our customers are men. They are successful, free spirits and educated.

What is your favourite Audemars Piguet watch?

The one that I am wearing, a Jules Audemars time equation in pink gold exhibiting in addition to its perpetual calendar functions, the sunset and sunrise for Beirut city and bearing my initials.

Which Middle Eastern market is the biggest for Audemars Piguet? What are the markets that you think Audemars Piguet still have a lot of potentials?

The biggest market for Audemars Piguet in the Middle East is the UAE followed by Saudi Arabia; this is reflected in the statistics of the Swiss watch federation. Both Kuwait and Qatar also are very interesting markets for us and the Sultanate of Oman has a very big potential as well.

What kind of impact does SIHH have on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?

We consider our relationship with retailers to be a very important pillar for continual success. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2013 offers a valuable opportunity for us to enhance this relationship and create tighter bonds with our partners.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2013?

SIHH concentrates more than 50 per cent of our retail orders. The region is doing well in spite of the crisis and we expect to have a growth over 10 per cent over last year at SIHH.

What are the foreseen trends and directions in 2013? Any particular trends that your brand is keen on in terms of movement and or designs?

As we take pride in our unique know-how, we will be focusing in the coming period on returning to the basics of time making. As we build on such solid ground, we will be able to guarantee the exceptional quality that has always characterised our timepieces.

What are Audemars Piguet “star” novelties for this SIHH?

Every year, novelties are launched at the SIHH to push the boundaries of watch making a little bit further. In 2013, the world will be pleased to discover the ROO GC and the Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph.

When would we expect SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East? Will you display the new collection at the Doha Jewellery and Watches exhibition in Doha in February 2013?

Novelties are delivered simultaneously worldwide in our network of boutiques. Doha fair comes too short after the SIHH; yet we will bring some novelties but their delivery date is 1st semester 2013.

What is the AP’s new resolution for 2013 in the region?

Quality, quality and quality.

 
 

Interview with Mr. Richard Mille, CEO & Founder of Richard Mille Brand

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Richard Mille: Looking beyond horizon

Richard Mille, CEO and Founder of Richard Mille Brand, says upcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) exhibition is important for the brand. “It is going to be a spectacular show for us with some amazing timepieces to share with everyone,” says Mille. Below are excerpts from the interview with the CEO:


What is impact of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?

SIHH is extremely important for us in every way; it is the one time in the year that we are all together and have the opportunity to talk and get up to date with clients from all over the Middle East. Of course, presenting our new models to our clients is very exciting, but this combined with the time for personal contact makes it even more important for us to be there.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2013?

My expectations are high, buoyed by not only the fantastic results we have had already through 2012, also because of the excitement around our new models; it is going to be a spectacular show for us with some amazing timepieces to share with everyone.

What are the foreseen trends and directions in watches in 2013? Any particular trends that your brand is keen on in terms of movement and or designs?

My personal trend, as always, is to continue being independently creative and not to be too concerned about what is happening around me. It seems the more that I follow my own instincts, the greater the interest is from the public.

What “star” novelties will be showcased at the SIHH?

I am afraid that you will have to come and visit us to see them yourself; in the end what I can say is that all of my watches are stars. My most favourite watch is always the newest watch that I am working on, and right now, I am already working on the future pieces for 2014!

When would you expect SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East?

Let me answer you in depth, because this a question that everyone asks me, each and every year, and of course, I am deeply flattered that people want their new timepieces as quickly as possible - I appreciate this and understand it well. But you know, even I don’t have the supernatural powers to rush my watchmakers; and making watches requires a lot of handwork, solitude, skill and concentration. So the only realistic answer I can give you is that it will take several months. It is really important to note that the new pieces at SIHH are the first trial prototypes, and afterwards there can be small changes that I might prefer in some small details of hands, dial, etc. This is the beautiful process of being an active, independent and creative brand; it also requires time. I understand this is a source of frustration, but I am sure you understand that forcing people to work faster than they can is not a way to produce the highest quality, and I must respect my own striving for perfection as well as these artists in their work.

Which of your watch models are the most popular in the Middle East? And Why?

Hard to tell in a simple manner; I would venture to say that we have sales across the board that are similar to other parts of the world, except perhaps that we sell more jewellery pieces in the Middle East than elsewhere. Precious stones enjoy a lot more attention there and many people seem to love the sparkle and colours they add to my timepieces.

What are the challenges that you are facing as watchmakers/retailer in the existing global and regional circumstances?

Actually the only problem we have, if you can call it that, is to produce more watches to fulfill demand, and because of the high level of work we produce, it is not a simple task to increase production, even a small amount.

 
 
 

Product Launch

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication, a contemporary 44 mm-diameter titanium and ceramic watch teamed with a rubber strap, features powerful, generous lines.

The watch is an expression of thetalent and mastery exercised by the watchmakers united within the workshops of theManufacture. Within this impressive horological accomplishment, the 648 parts sharing the 8cm3 space allotted to the movement are finished with exemplary care. Contemporary finishessuch as sandblasting are designed to highlight more traditional treatments such as beveling orhand-drawn flanks. To reveal the exceptional nature of this model, the parts composing thisexceptional art are partially visible through the transparent sapphire dial and by a fittedexhibition back. This contemporary horological work of art remains a creation made individually andexclusively to order by a single artisan who will devote over 700 hours of patient craftsmanshipto every single watch.

 

Greubel Forsey presents the Quadruple Tourbillon Secret

With its full dial concealing the intricate ballet of a quartet of tourbillons below, the Quadruple Tourbillon Secret offers the ultimate in discretion and refinement. Behind the blackened gold dial, an exceptional movement with superlative fine finishing features two double tourbillon systems linked by a spherical differential playing out a micro-mechanical ballet.Hinted at by the sub-dial indications, but visible only through the lateral window on the case band and through the display back.Quadruple Tourbillon Secretis exclusivity assured by a unique edition of eight pieces in 5N red gold and eight pieces in platinum.

 

Richard Mille TOURBILLON G-SENSOR RM 036 JEAN TODT LIMITED EDITION

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The world of automobiles is a constant source of inspiration for Richard Mille, who worked closely with jean Todtto develop a watch capableof offering a tangible solution to road safety problems. They developed a mechanism capable of interpreting the physical constraints felt by the body during rapid decelerations to make drivers aware of the dangers linked to the road. This is how thecreation of the Tourbillon G-Sensor RM 036 Jean Todt came about.The RM 036 features a tonneau shape houses the RM036 caliber, atourbillon movement made entirely of grade-5 titanium and ARCAP, with a carbon-nanofiber baseplate.The manuallywound mechanical caliber features hours, minutes and seconds combined with a brand-new complication:a mechanical G-sensor.The G-sensor system was developed and patented by Renaud Papi exclusively for Richard Mille, andtranslates the movement of a small internal mechanism to an indicator, thereby enabling the wearerto visualise the forces.

 

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

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The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours version of the much admired Nicolas Rieussec Collection is named after the noted French watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussecwho invented the chronograph. The 43mm watch features an ingenious indication of day and night placed exactly at 12 o’clock. The numerals on the hours disc are hollow, showing another disc underneath. This second disc is part grey and part blue. It moves under the hour indicators to indicate day or night. The Arabic numeral cutouts spin on a disc and are indicated by a red arrow. The disc rotates at a varying rate using a special twin cam mechanism. The day - which is a new addition to the watch - and date are indicated at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively. The Rising Hours is powered by a Montblanc MB R220 automatic movement that is visible through the sapphire case back. It has a power reserve of around 72 hours. The watch is available in steel or rose gold and a limited edition of just 28 pieces in platinum. The watch comes on a choice of either a strap or a bracelet.

 

Jaeger –LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

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Inspired by its 19th century perpetual calendars, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches one of its finest complications within the Master Grande Tradition line: the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel.

The watch, equipped with a flying (or cantilevered) tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, has been created in complete respect for the noblest watchmaking traditions and is in tune with the quest for absolute precision treasured by the founder of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Within a large 42 mm platinum case, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 beats to the rhythm of a flying tourbillon and is equipped with a cylindrical balance-spring, forming an ensemble guaranteeing exceptional precision timing performances. The tourbillon is a major feat in itself. The watch is issued in a 180-piece limited series.

 

Roger Dubuis: The year of the Excalibur

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Roger Dubuis will focus this year on the Escalibur Collection and introduce five new creations; among them is the Excalibur 42 Tourbillon Squelette.The round case of the model in diameter of 42 mm is made of 18-carat rose gold. The case is equipped with a toothed bezel. The crown, located at the 3 o’clock position, decorated with the brand’s logo. The model has no dial; on the black flange, there are inserted 12 gold screws, which serve as hour-markers. Indication of hours and minutes is carried out by means of the central hands made of gold. At the 7 o’clock position is a tourbillon, which gives a delightful appearance to the watch.

 

Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time

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Ralph Lauren added a new watch to its Sporting collection, the World Time watch with a rotating disk engraved with the names of 24 world cities, each representing one of the world’s major time zones. The disk works with the second time-zone subdial at 6 o’clock (which also has a day-night indicator) to indicate the time in another zone.

The Sporting World Time contains automatic Caliber RL939, developed for Ralph Lauren by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The big, 45-mm case is made of brushed stainless steel and has three crowns: one at 3 o’clock for time setting and winding; one at 10 o’clock to operate the city selector disk; and one at 2 o’clock for date setting and correction.

 
 
 
 

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