Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and creative director of Louis Moinet, talks about watches and sheds light on the 2020 Novelties at their recent exhibition ‘The Discovery Days’

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and creative director of Louis Moinet, talks about watches and sheds light on the 2020 Novelties at their recent exhibition ‘The Discovery Days’.

Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and creative director of Louis Moinet, talks  about watches and sheds light on the 2020 Novelties at their recent exhibition ‘The Discovery Days’.

Louis Moinet revealed a new concept "The Discovery Days" as an artistic commercial approach emphasizing its historical and creative values. Can you illuminate on this approach and how do you evaluate its feedback?

The world situation requires to show respect and empathy. It is not the time to try and sell watches, when people are so concerned about their health and life. We wanted to share our values, unique history and creativity. The feedback has been tremendously good, and we have made new friends all over the world and, despite an adverse environment, they are closer to us than ever!

This journey to the heart of the universe has been a major theme and at the centre of creativity of the LM timepieces and its creativity. How does the new LM collection reflects this philosophy?

Louis Moinet’s collections are of two types; ‘Cosmic art’ and ‘Mechanical wonders’. They all share four values, namely, unique story, art & design, creative watchmaking and exclusivity. Now, speaking about ‘Cosmic art’, it truly differentiates Louis Moinet. Our creations are based on meetings with charismatic cosmonauts and astronauts, as well as our very unique interstellar pieces. To offer extraterrestrial material is something very special. You have a piece of the universe in a Louis Moinet watch.

The newly launched MARS collection reflects the strong DNA of LM. Can you please explain the aesthetic and distinctive design of this collection?

MARS is a creation based on the red planet. Its dial very meticulously reproduces the engraving of the most famous Mars volcanoes. It is a limited edition, like all our other collections, because it incorporates a real Mars fragment at 3 o’clock, preserved in a safety sealed container. When you know the scarcity of Mars meteorites, you understand why it can only be created in a limited edition.

Louis Moinet invented the chronograph in 1816. In 2020 it transformed its expertise and DNA in the newly launched “Memoris Titanium” watch. What are the technical specs of this watch and how does it reflect the ingenious design within the traditional mechanism of LM?

It all began with a 100% ingenious design within which the traditional mechanism has been dissociated; automatic winding on the back, and the chronograph system on the front. This new, unique and distinctive vision makes it possible to admire the measurement mechanism at every interaction; start, stop, reset. More than 500 components had to be devised to achieve this incomparable feat. Memoris design is bold and contemporary. Orange is sandwiched between two shades of blue, creating a pleasing contrast with the polished grade 5 titanium case. To highlight the mechanical aspect of the creation, the counters have been manufactured in an avant-garde, entirely translucent material. The rules of comfort require harmony and attention to detail. Memoris has a particularly light case (only 31 gms) and our design studies have shown that the use of concave sapphire crystals enables optimal arrangement of volumes, while ensuring unrivalled wearing comfort. Finally, the fact that the chronograph functions are handled via a single push piece (at 2 o'clock) is an additional user-friendly factor for the wearer.
I am pleased to report that this creation was recently recognized with a ‘red dot design award’, one of the most important awards world-wide.

How does LM promote its bespoke fine watchmaking to the watch collectors in the Middle East region?

We promote it through direct contact with the most important people of your area. We favor a personalized approach, as we need to understand our customers’ needs well to fulfill them. It is the tradition of Louis Moinet to serve kings, sultans and aristocrats, and we are very happy to remain at the service of our esteemed clientele.

In the past years, LM has revealed several bespoke creations for acclaimed watch collectors in the Gulf region. How important is this region for LM?

Middle Eastern traditions and cultures are our most inspiring sources.  The region is of utmost importance to Louis Moinet. We love to come and discuss fantastic ideas with our friends and customers. The hospitality is always so warm and endearing that I never want to leave.

On April 30th LM unveiled a new website. What has been the feedback and traffic generated by this new website? Did your website incorporate an e-commerce platform? How important is an e-commerce platform for an independent brand such as LM?

Our website is part of our new visage, together with the black book, digital museum and the Hollywood-made ‘James’ Odyssey’ film trilogy. The introduction of the website has been very successful, twice as many visitors coming daily and spending twice as much time as before. We want to open the Louis Moinet doors and encourage our friends to be closer to us. 
It is vital today to have digital tools to facilitate contacts. It is not about e-commerce, though. Our customers are important, our products are personalized, we need to add the human touch!

Do you anticipate a delay in the delivery of your 2020 novelties due to COVID- 19 pandemic, and what are the measures you have taken in terms of production and timely delivery? 

For sure, it is a significant reason for delays. At least two months have been lost, not only for us but for the world in general. We are not greedy for quantity, we are greedy for quality. It’s difficult to change the nature of things, we can only adapt the best we can. Therefore we go step by step, doing our best and keeping in mind that ‘quality is number one’.

 
 
 

Market News

 

Swiss Watches market grows by 2 percent

Swiss Watches market which is estimated to be worth CHF50 billion at retail, and which grew by 2.6% according to export data provided by trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), we can clearly see an industry trying to find its future in ultra-niche and high-end products. The Swiss are still masters of the game at the high-end, with Swiss watches accounted for an estimated 53% of the worldwide watch market by value. But even within the Swiss watch industry the mix is changing in favour of the high-end. Swiss watch brands compete in a market that is dominated for 78.7% by the four largest groups: Swatch, Rolex, Richemont and LVMH with total sales amounting to CHF 39.8 billion. The facts, figures and analysis are based on the published yearly report on the Swiss watch industry by Morgan Stanley.

 

Richemont Group yearly results remain positive, yet toughly affected by COVID-19 crisis

Richemont Group has recently announced its results for the year ended 31 March 2020. On a yearly basis, the group recorded revenues of EUR 14, 238 million, up 2% at actual exchange rates and stable at constant exchange rate compared to the prior year. However, this doesn’t reflect the current situation in the market. Sales over the nine-month period from April to December 2019 had increased by 8% at actual exchange rates and by 5% at constant exchange rates, before the Coronavirus pandemic put downward pressure on the global economy. As expected, over the 4th quarter, operations were strongly affected by the COVID-19 crisis. The luxury industry, including the Swiss watch industry, is expected to be amongst the hardest-hit sectors. Consumer consumption has collapsed as many countries have been under complete lockdown.

 

AWJ first webinar interview with Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari SPA with Khalid Al-Saif and Abdullah Shaer

As part of AWJ magazine digital transformation strategy, we had an immense pleasure to host our first live webinar interview with Mr. Jean-Christophe Babin the CEO of Bvlgari SPA, last week, with the participation of the Middle East largest watch blogger Mr. Khalid Al-Saif (@patekcollector) and AWJ contributing editor Mr. Abdulla Shaer. During the live interview, Mr. Babin presented the Bvlgari’s new collection of fine watches and elaborated on the brands’ future directions and initiatives. This first session lasted for 60 minutes with live discussions and poll questions.
A series of similar webinar interviews and discussions is planned on weekly basis and an intensive program shall be announced by AWJ soon. Watch this space!

Let’s strive to remain home and united as one for a better future.

 
 

Company News

 

Queen Elizabeth II wears Boucheron during VE Day speech

Queen Elizabeth II wore a Boucheron aquamarine and diamond Double Clip brooch as she addressed the nation marking the 75th anniversary of VE Day at Windsor Castle on 8th May. The two art deco style pieces made from oval, baguette, round diamonds and aquamarines were purchased in London on July 31, 1937 by the Duke of Kent, the Queen's uncle. Part of the Royal Collection, these brooches were gifted to Queen Elizabeth II by her parents, King George VI and Queen Mother in 1944 on her 18th birthday.

 

Gucci announces opening of "No Space, Just a Place" Exhibition in Seoul

No Space, Just A Place is a multi-layered project powered by Gucci to support the rich cultural landscape and contemporary art scene in Seoul. Taking its cue from the complex history of independent and alternative art spaces in Seoul and Alessandro Michele’s reflections on eterotopia, the exhibition proposes a new definition of what an “other space” might be: a place to build a different, desirable future with new ways for humans to relate to each other and to their surroundings. This lays the foundation for a new perspective on the act of “being together” while not being a single entity. Every project is thematically tied to the idea of the alternative spaces as a utopian place in which to set new empowering narratives, dwelling on the understanding of otherness, the exploration of minoritarian identities and queer politics.

 
 

Product Launch

 

OMEGA presents the latest Trésor models

Slim yet big on style, the 36 and 39mm models, cased in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine gold, continue OMEGA’s fine tradition of women’s watchmaking. Eye-catching dials include domed 18K Moonshine™ gold with an embossed silk-like pattern, and white mother-of-pearl. On the steel models, all hands are rhodium plated, while the gold editions feature diamond polished hands in matching 18K Moonshine™ gold or 18K Sedna gold. The latest Trésor collection also offers a choice of leather straps in fantastic colours such as rhodium and green, as well as a brand new 36mm rose model with a nude strap. Each model retains the classic elements of the Trésor, including the 38 single-cut diamonds following the curves of the case and the additional diamond on the crown, placed within the OMEGA flower in red liquid ceramic.

 

Vacheron Constantin presents Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date

The Patrimony moon phase retrograde date model, presented in 2017 in white and pink gold versions, is one of Vacheron Constantin's signature watches. Its understated elegance and the originality of its display embody the Maison’s identity at first glance. Three years after its launch, this timepiece with its pleasing proportions is enriching the Collection Excellence Platine concept with a 50-piece limited boutique edition. Entirely faithful to the spirit of the Patrimony collection, drawing inspiration from the watches created by the Maison in the 1950s, this timepiece bears witness to the minimalist aesthetic approach with a concern for detail aimed at achieving perfectly balanced lines. The timelessly elegant 42.5 mm round case houses the self-winding Manufacture 2460 R31L calibre with its precision moon phase and retrograde pointer-type date display. For optimal user-friendliness, all function settings are performed via the crown.

 

URWERK releases UR-100 Gold Edition

This new creation is the fourth episode in the UR-100 intergalactic saga, recounting the adventures of an atypical time instrument written, produced, and directed by the horological studio URWERK. Approaching light speed, the UR-100 pushes the boundaries of technology, design, indications, and functionality. First and foremost, the UR-100 is slim – extra-flat for a satellite-geared watch – with angular contours; it’s an elongated octagon with three notched sides. The form uses subtle asymmetry, taking clues from Han Solo’s Millennium Falcon. This UR-100 is cut from a solid block of 2N yellow gold, its surface satin-finished to the same pale shine as the Star Wars droid. Topping the case is a sapphire crystal bubble reminiscent of the shape of the first URWERK models, the dome housing the control center of this intergalactic visitor.

 

Frederique Constant introduces the new Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown

Frederique Constant’s Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown offers a technical complication popular with fans of yachting and regattas: the countdown to the start of the race. Housed in an elegant 42 mm polished stainless-steel case, the new Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown presents an anthracite grey dial, playing on the colour harmony. Inspired by the most stunning examples of traditional luxury watchmaking, this new dial features a guilloché decoration. This age-old finish affords the light a regular pattern, where it can dance, stretch out and be reflected, like waves and swells, presenting an ever-changing appearance depending on the viewing angle. To complement this elegant symphony of tones, this new version comes with a matching stainless-steel strap made up of alternating polished and satin finished links, fastened with a folding buckle.

 

MB&F and L'Epée 1839 launches Starfleet Explorer

Designed by MB&F, the Starfleet Explorer is an intergalactic spaceship-cum-table clock crafted by L’Epée 1839, the last remaining Swiss manufacture specialised in high-end table clocks. Not only does it display the hours and minutes, it also features an animation in which three spacecraft perform a five-minute orbit of the station. The highly visible, superlatively finished in-house movement boasts an exceptional eight-day power reserve. The mechanism can be manually wound using a double-ended key serving to wind the movement as well as to set the time. Starfleet Explorer is launched as three limited editions of 99 pieces each in blue, green and red.

 

Noora Shawqi launches Maldives Collection

Drawing inspiration from the paradise island of Maldives brings forth Noora Shawqi’s latest collection. The Maldives Collection fuses elements of the island with contemporary designs for a unique twist to fine jewelry.  The patterns found on seashells are translated onto delicate necklaces, bangles and rings while exquisite mother of pearl is infused into each design emphasizing the rawness of the inspiration. While stackable rings and bangles offer versatile styling options. Embodying the unrivalled serenity of the island is expressed through a color palette featuring mother of pearl gems in soothing tones of white, black, pink and turquoise gemstones that resemble the ocean. 

 
 
 
 

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