Richemont reported 4% revenue in third-quarter 2012; Mouawad opens a new boutique in Doha; Bremont opens new head quarters in Oxfordshire

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Time Around the World

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Time Around the World

By Roberta Naas
 
Dating back to the dawn of time, the sun was the only indicator by which to estimate time. When it was directly overhead, it was noon. As the world’s people began to traverse the oceans, it became more and more important to recognize the existence of different time zones.

In 1883, standard time was fixed to prevent the differences of time that resulted in different localities around the world. In fact, it was the International Meridian Conference in Washington – in an effort to help establish guidelines for cohesive time zones globally -- decided to divide the Earth into 24 time zones according to longitude, with the Greenwich meridian as longitude zero (GMT). Each zone differs from the preceding and following zone by one hour. By referring to a map and making minimal calculations, seafarers and other adventurous travelers could calculate time differences, although these differences were of little significance to them at that time because travel was slow and communication was not instantaneous.

Many things have changed since 1884 when the standard took effect, including the number of zones in the world (some of which are on 15-minute or 30-minute time zone differentials). Recognizing the busy, world-travel paces in today’s lifestyles, the genius watchmakers at top brands have devised interesting and elaborate methods for the simultaneous readings of a second time zone, of multiple zones and even world-wide zones on a wrist watch.
 
Thanks to the creative innovations of watchmakers today, these coveted horological complications come in many forms. Essentially, a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watch offers either a second time zone on it, or a 24-hour indication with am/pm readout. Dual- and Triple-time zone watches offer alternative second or third time zone indications in a variety of ways. World time watches have the 24 different world time zones indicated on them (each zone referenced by a city name) and allow for instantaneous viewing of the time in any of the different zones in the world.

Not only do these timepieces provide a vast amount of information, but also they are doing so with new technology that makes the indications ever more inventive and easy to use, with many watches offering quick or instant-set buttons to allow for ease of changing time zones. Indeed, with operations that include city disks, day/night indicators and more, knowing the time from New York to Dubai and around the world has become almost as simple as a flick of the wrist.

Up until about a dozen years ago, most dual time zone watches were timepieces that featured either two faces on the main dial, one subdial on the main dial, or reversible dials (with the second time zone on the flip side of the watch). The past decade’s technology has allowed for more adventurous design, bringing forth the hidden hand, wherein the watch features traditional hour, minute and second hands, and has another hour hand tucked away beneath the top hour hand. The lower hand is the second time-zone indicator. Typically, to activate the second time-zone function, the wearer simply adjusts the lower hour hand, which is a different color than the others. The watch functions automatically until the wearer no longer needs the second time zone and then hides the hand away again. (Some of these designs also offer an instant set button that allows the wearer to change the hour of the second time-zone hand without moving the main hands.) Triple time zones have also become a reality, often with the third zone being read off of a digital display window or the bezel, as is the case with many 24-hour watches. These tools of the trade typically feature a 24-hour ring as the outer bezel, which indicates the time in third location.

World Timers have also come a long way so that today they feature disks that name the world’s key cities in each of the 24 zones, or have outer chapter rings or bezels that indicate this information. Throughout the past few years, several brands have even unveiled watches with 36 time zones on them – taking into account the areas of the world where 30-minute differences occur. In fact, Blancpain’s Villeret Time Zone 30 Minutes Half-Hunter watch is a half-hour time zone piece – a rare creation. This watch enables travelers to countries such as India, or Venezuela, where there is a half-hour time zone – to track the time as easily as one tracks it anywhere else in the world. The watch is simple to use with all adjustments off of the crown.

Also available are GMT or Universal Time watches that enable the wearer to calculate the time in any of the 24 time zones around the world. On wristwatches, GMT is indicated in a variety of ways, depending on the manufacturer, and typically requires some calculation on the part of the wearer.

Just unveiled at the 23rd edition of the Salon International d’ Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was a host of elegant new multi-timers. Among them: Richard Mille’s newest 50mm World Time watch (whose bezel operates the world time indication); Ralph Lauren’s Sporting World Time watch (which is created with an alluring blue dial and blue strap that make it at once both rich and chic); Cartier’s Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon Second Time Zone (four years in the making); Montblanc’s new TimeWalker World Timer (with northern or southern hemisphere engraving on dial).

Jaeger-LeCoultre, celebrating its 180th anniversary this year, has also unveiled its newest Duometre Unique Travel Time watch. In typical Jaeger-LeCoutlre style, this timepiece is a superb work of craftsmanship and technology. The Duometre Unique Travel Time houses Jaeger-LeCoultre’s revolutionary Dual-Wing movement and, for the first time ever in a wristwatch, enables the wearer to adjust the time in the travel time zone to the nearest minute. The regulator dial of the watch features a subdial at 2:00 to display the hour and minute hand, and a subdial at 10:00 to offer the hours and minutes (in a jump-digit format) for the second time indication. A distinctive globe in a subdial at 6:00 offers the day/night indication.

So, for those who travel frequently (or like to say they do): fear not; a multi-time-zone watch that is perfect for you, exists.

 
 
 

Market News

 

Richemont reported 4% revenue in third-quarter 2012

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Richemont reported 4% increase in their third quarter revenue that ended on December 31 2012. Richemont concluded that its wholesale channel was relatively weak, reflecting a cautious approach by the group’s retail partners in the watch business. Richemont revenue growth was observed across all segments, Richemont's retail sales jumped 9% and wholesale revenue was up 2%. Jewelry brand sale increased 4%, however, their watch division sales surged 9%.

 

Mouawad opens a new boutique in Doha

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Mouawad opened the doors of its newest flagship boutique at prestigiousLagoona Mall in Doha today. The new showroom, located on the first floor in the new luxurious retail destination Lagoona Mall. Visitors to the new Mouawad Lagoona Mall boutique will enchanted by the entire Mouawad repertoire as well as its latest collections, Papillon and Oriana.

 

Maitres Du Temps Partners with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

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Maîtres du Temps has announced recently its partnership with the leading retailer of choice in the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons to offer its extensive range of coveted haute timepieces. The secret compartment in the watch enables access to the indications without overpowering the visual statement of the timepieces and ensuring its aesthetic integrity, giving collectors who travel access to the second time zone and night/day indicators. Maîtres du Temps is available at selected Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons stores across the United Arab Emirates.

 

Bremont opens new head quarters in Oxfordshire

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Bremont has recently moved its new British watch making facility in Henley on Thames, South Oxfordshire. The beautiful oak framed building in the heart of the Chiltern Valley has been custom built to provide an ideal facility for the manufacture of their high-end Mechanical watches. With the successful opening of their Mayfair store last July, the new British based headquarters reinforces the ethos of the brand and marks an exciting future for British watchmaking. Due to changes at Basel, Bremont will not be exhibiting there in 2013 and will instead be holding meetings at their Head Quarters in Henley.

 
 

Company News

 

Chopard & Weinstein Company celebrate the 70th Golden Globe Awards

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Chopard celebrated the latest collaboration with the world of cinema. As the Official Partner of the Cannes Film Festival and founder of the Chopard Trophy honoring young acting talents in Cannes every year, The Swiss jeweler and watch maker will be the official partner of The Weinstein Company’s major 2013 events in connection with the most prestigious international awards ceremonies and film festivals. The collaboration started with an exclusive party held at The Old Trader Vic’s for the Golden Globe Awards, and will be followed by parties for the Academy Awards (t) the BAFTAs and the Cannes and Venice Film Festivals.

 

Alain Mouawad becomes the Guardian of the Mouawad Watch Division

Alain Mouawad, a fourth-generation member of the Mouawad family, developed an early passion for horology and the luxury watch business. Today Alain Mouawad has joined his two brothers, Fred and Pascal, in a watch making Venture. Alain is the new guardian of the Mouawad watch division. He presides over the manufacturing division in Geneva and that at Les Breuleux. Mouawad Blacksand’s new collection differs from the movements timepieces developed and manufactured in-house before.

 

Damas opens the first Folli Follie store in Abu Dhabi

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Damas has inaugurated the first Abu Dhabi branch of Folli Follie, opening up at Al Wahda Mall. Reflecting Folli Follie’s design philosophy and global style concept, the store adopts a fashionably stylish orange and white color scheme that brings out the exquisiteness of the stunning collections. The open and inviting format provides a comfortable ambience to customers as well as a refreshing shopping experience to fashion lovers.

 

DeLaCour introduces the City Leap Passion

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The City Leap Classic, The City Leap Passion has endless amplitude on its design containing a beautiful play of lights and colors. White diamonds underline the entire length of the case, interfering between its lugs and supported by a perimeter of diamonds around the dial. The center of this timepiece is paved with diamonds and accented by a variety of pear shaped colored stones (peridot, citrine, diamond and amethyst), are for all, a real ray of light. The City Leap Passion combines art with fine jewelry watchmaking expertise.

 

Faberge celebrates spring with opalescent pastels

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Fabergé celebrates spring with Les Palais, a collection of signature Fine Jewellery egg pendants in opalescent pastels. Inspired by the sumptuous summer palaces of Imperial Russia, Les Palais egg pendants bring a playful modernity and contemporary sophistication to spring. Each jewel is hand-crafted in gold and the finest guilloché enamel creating an exquisite iridescence which lends light and three-dimensional depth to each of the distinctive colours. Les Palais pendants are available in a palette of soft macaroon hues ranging from powder-pink to nude cream or turquoise lagoon with earrings to complement, referencing spring trends for metallics and candy colours.

 

Richard Mille announces its New Partner

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Richard Mille has recently announced their rally driver Sébastien Loeb who has joined the team of prestigious sports stars involved with the brand. In addition to this Frenchman’s huge talent – with 9 world championships under his belt! – Richard Mille was won over by his warm personality and down-to-earth approach. Richard Mille is delighted to have Sébastien Loeb in its team alongside other famous sporting talents, especially as Loeb reflects the spirit of the ‘RM Family’ perfectly.

 

Rivoli announced the first one-of-a-kind Personal Shopper

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Rivoli Group announced that it will offer the first one-of-a-kind Personal Shopper service to help their discerning customers choose the right watch that suits their personal styles. Finally there is a solution for all Dubai residents and visitors, who always wanted to own a premium watch but never knew which one to buy!. The Rivoli Personal Shopper service will be available at select Rivoli outlets, such as the exceptional boutique located within one of Dubai’s most famous monuments: the Burj Al Arab Hotel. A personal Rivoli shopper listens to the needs of customers and understands their lifestyle requirements and personal style.

 
 

Product Launch

 

Jaquet Droz shows a new face of the Petite Heure Minute

The Petite Heure Minute 35 mm Watch, Jaquet Droz forges an unconventional steel and mother-of-Pearl tribute to contemporary femininity. The workshops of Jaquet Droz have opted for a woman's Watch all in stainless steel. In pairing This métal with a new timepiece, It contrasts with the radiant dark Blue mother-of-Pearl and the light of the stars. The High quality mother-of-Pearl Is delicately worked and cut into a single disc in an array of light-catching hues That vary with the movement of the wrist: royal blue, ultramarine, cobalt or indigo. The eight stars, a signature of the brand, are scattered across the dial in a truly spectacular display, Much like the beauty of a night sky.

 

Raymond Weil introduces its new nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve

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The turning point between yesterday and tomorrow, between the past and the future. A magic moment that the nabucco collection is celebrating with mastery, highlighting the number 12, written this year in gold letters. The nabucco collection, known for its sleek design and its architectural proportions, has always played with the number 12, the only number which is not an index. A refined and exclusive timepiece, the nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve exploits a division of choice, involving the subtle blend of the modernity of steel with the lightness of titanium and carbon fiber.

 

ArtyA manufactured motorcycle

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Yvan has chosen another object of inspiration the “motorcycle”. This silver colored UFO, that took more than 1'000 hours to sculpt and customize, will no doubt hit the Geneva road. Some of the visible screws and bolts are decorated with in-house jewelry made for black collars, giving a very detailed gothic look to this post-apocalyptic machine. This moving sculpture was revealed at the Geneva Time Exhibition 2013(20-24 January).

 

Laurent Ferrier launches Calibre Micro-rotor

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A new film reveals the slightest details of this calibre developed by Laurent Ferrier. Its silicon double direct-impulse lever escapement fitted directly on the balance comes to life before our very eyes under the watchmaker’s nimble fingers. This is followed by a segment focused on the assembly of the pawl-fitted micro-rotor with its guilloché gold oscillating weight and its winding system equipped with a unique shock-absorbing system.

 

Omega launches fine jewellery collection

Omega has revealed the Griffes a feminine, frisky and glamorous collection. Its pieces convey certain playfulness and every piece are highlighted by the essential elements of the Constellation timepiece. Omega Flower is a feminine ladies collection that features the omega symbol discretely interwoven with a flower in the design of a piece of jewellery. The round “drop” shape of the captivating Omegamania Dewdrop jewellery collection is a creative interpretation of the omega symbol. A source of life and emotion. Omega’s iconic Aqua fine jewellery line traces its origins equally to the brand’s long connection to water and to the jewellery that has been such an important part of its history and heritage. The omega Aqua Swing collection reinterprets the iconic identity of the wave of the Aqua line.

 

Tiffany Goes to the Heart of Valentine's Day

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The most beautiful Valentines come straight from the heart of Tiffany & Co., the jeweler synonymous with love and romance. Tiffany celebrates Valentine’s Day with jewels of passionate pink diamonds, highlighting an unparalleled heritage in diamonds. The Tiffany Soleste collection includes a pendant and ring. The stones are assembled over time and exquisitely matched, delighting the eye with their beauty and perfection. The Tiffany Yours collection expresses emotion in a fashionable way.

 

Gucci Timepieces & Jewellery and Li bingbing launch new bamboo collection

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Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry hosted a press conference for retailers and national media to launch the special edition Bamboo watch and jewelry collection, in partnership with Chinese actress and supporter of environmental causes, Li Bingbing. The highlight of this collection is the use of materials from sustainable, renewable sources such as bamboo and the tagua nut, or vegetable ivory - an alternative to animal-based ivory. The Bamboo special edition has been officially launched in China, where Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is supporting a local reforestation project. Both of these environmental initiatives reflect the House’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and responsibility. Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry’s press conference and launch was held in the Pullman Resort, Lijiang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the northwestern portion of Yunnan province.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels new Jewellery Croire à la chance bracelets

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The Van Cleef & Arpels has often combined wood with gold and precious stones. Today, the Maison celebrates luck with new Croire à la chance bracelets made of three precious and rare woods: ebony, amaranth and violet wood, featuring yellow or pink gold engraved plaques. Celebrate love with a touch of luck, and mix & match the Croire à la chance bracelets with Alhambra Bois d’Amourette.

 
 

Exhibitions & Events

 

23rd edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

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The recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, which held on 21 to 25 January at Palexpo Geneva, came after another record year for the Swiss watch industry, which for the first time ever is expected to post exports in excess of CHF 20 billion. The SIHH confirms it is the foremost international gathering for the Fine Watch profession. A private and exclusive event for retailers, distributors and media representatives, the SIHH delivered on all counts with more than 13,000 visitors (+3%) from all five continents, of which close to 1,200 journalists.

 

Pomellato Opens New Flagship Boutique at the Dubai Mall

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Pomellato, the inimitable Milanese jewellery brand famous for introducing the concept of ‘prêt-a-porter’ jewellery, has opened the doors to its new boutique in Dubai. The store is located on the ground floor of The Dubai Mall.

 

Cartier fine watchmaking event in Riyadh

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The House of Cartier’s brought in again, for the fourth year in a row, its annual Fine Watchmaking rendezvous to Riyadh, at the Four Seasons, Kingdom Tower on the 15th of January 2013, notably presented was the most masculine, flamboyant and complicated Fine Watchmaking Collection, emerged with Cartier’s faithful clients making this event a unique memorable date.

 
 

Celebrity News

 

Salma Hayek wears Mikimoto at Independent Spirit Awards Luncheon

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The actress Salma Hayek wore a Mikimoto White South Sea Strand Necklace and triple row Akoya cultured pearl bracelet with diamond clasp to the Independent Spirit Awards Luncheon in Beverly Hills, California.

 

International Celebrities Wear Chopard to the 70th Annual Golden Globe Awards

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Jennifer Lawrence wore a pair of round-cut diamond drop earrings (8 carats), rose-cut white diamond cocktail ring (11 carats) set in platinum and pink diamond cocktail ring set in 18-karat white gold. While Marion Cotillard wore a multicolored spinel bracelet (33 carats) set in 18-carat rose gold, featuring over 1,100 orange sapphires (10 carats) and white diamond pave. She also selected an oval-cut ruby ring (21 carats) set in over 400 pink and white diamonds, and 18-carat white and rose gold. Kerry Washington wore Chopard’s green diamond cocktail ring (2 carats) set in rose-cut diamond pave and 18-karat white and rose gold. And for Golden Globe’s Host Amy Poehler wore Chopard’s diamond lariat necklace, featuring round and asscher-cut white diamonds (83 carats) set in platinum. She complemented her look with a pair of white diamond studs (10 carats), set in platinum.

 

Hollywood’s Brightest stars shine in Harry Winston jewels, at the golden globe awards

Jessica Chastain (nominee), wearing Diamond Carpet Bracelet and Diamond Emerald Cut Drop Earrings of Harry Winston diamonds, set in platinum. Hugh Jackman (nominee) and wife, Deborra-Lee Furness, wearing Rose Gold and Black Cufflinks and a 42MM Automatic MIDNIGHT by Harry Winston Timepiece in Rose Gold and Reflection by Harry Winston Diamond Earrings and Queen by Harry Winston 5 Row Diamond Bracelet. Jessica Alba, wearing Mrs. Winston by Harry Winston Diamond Cascading Drop Necklace valued at $5.8 million, Round Diamond Earstuds at 2 crts each and Diamond Pear-Shaped Cluster Ring, all set in platinum.

 
 
 
 

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