Reporting live from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve - Day 2

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Exclusive interview with Alexander Schmiedt, Brand Director MENA

- The FIFTYSIX collection will re-interpret the heritage of the maison.
- Vacheron constantins business developed very positively in the Middle East in 2017.
- Clients today expect watches with an identity, watchmaking substance and a fair value.
What are your brand’s “star” novelties for the SIHH 2018?
2018 will be an important year for Vacheron Constantin with the launch of an entire new collection. The FIFTYSIX collection will re-interpret the heritage of the maison in a new, and fresh way and will offer our clients a complete new choice of style and value in addition to our existing families.

What are your expectations at SIHH 2018?

We are expecting a positive development for 2018. The maison has developed very strongly in the Middle East since 2016 despite a difficult business environment. Despite the fact that I don’t expect the overall situation to drascitclaly change, I am convinced that we will be able to continue and even accelerate this trend in 2018 

What are the foreseen trends and directions with watches in 2018?
Vacheron has never worked by following trends but always tried to create watches that felt right for our maison. Funnily enough, by doing this we have in the past contributed- if not created- what later was called “a trend”- for example with the Metiers d Art and classic watches with Patrimony in the early 2000s.
We believe that what clients today expect from a brand are watches with an identity, watchmaking substance, an authentic story- and a fair value. We are convinced that with the new FIFTYSIX we will meet all these demands. 

How would you describe your brand performance during 2017 in the Middle East? Did your export figures increase?
Vacheron constantins business developed very positively in the last year. This was driven by the strong product innovations- the astronomy theme with the Celestia as a highlight- as well as the Overseas collection which continued to sell very well for clients in the Middle East.
What are your brand’s priorities for 2018?
Vacheron Constantin has and will be a brand for the real connoisseurs- the people who go beyond where everybody else stops, who live their passions, who appreciate things that not everybody else has- and who dare to be different. Hence, our priority we will continue to focus on making connoisseurs- be it existing or potential clients experience the spirit of Vacheron Constantin: in our communication, in our Boutiques, at the POS of our partners- and wherever else they get in contact with our maison.  
How does your brand approach technology as part of the future of fine watch making?
Tradition and innovation are the 2 sides of the same coin- and have always been at the core of Vacherons identity.
Hence, we will embrace new technologies where we can improve the performance of our maison- for example to speed up and improve the product development process with 3D prototyping and 3D animations of technical and aesthetical designs.
We are using new technologies where they create value to communicate with our clients in faster and more personalized way.
We will however, not compromise the passion of our craftsmen and the traditional ways to create our watches as this is a form of art- and art, beauty, creativity  and human expression cannot be replaced by an technology.  

In your opinion, what is about to change in the watch industry (markets &consumer attitude)?
There are a lot of changes due to the ever faster development of new technology in communication, production, travel and so on- and I don’t want to list them all here.
I believe however, despite- or maybe even because life around us develops in this ever faster pace- people will come to appreciate the things that last. The more technology evolves with Artificial intelligence and ubiquitous connectivity- the ultimate luxury will become something that is made by a person for a person with all his/her dedication and passion. And this is a very encouraging thought as this has been what we have been doing since 1755.    

 
 
 

Company News

 

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2018 kicks off with a grand Geneva event

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2018 kicked-off with a grand event organized in downtown Geneva at the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices on the banks of the Rhone. SIHH President Fabienne Lupo, along with the Councillor of Canton of Geneva Pierre Maudet, Mayor of Geneva Rémy Pagani, the exhibiting watch Maisons presented by their 35 CEOs, more than 400 guests, clients, collectors, retailers, journalists and watch industry personalities, as well as a number of eminent local personalities, congregated to celebrate the passion for Fine Watchmaking in a particularly festive spirit. Guests were welcomed at the entrance by “Musique à Rollers” featuring young musicians combining acrobatic feats on roller skates with impressive musical techniques based on well-known arrangements.

 
 

Product Launch

 

Ferdinand Berthoud launches Chronomètre FB-1R.6-1

With its original regulator-type display and its ultra-resistant carburized stainless steel case, the Chronomètre FB-1R.6-1 enriches the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud collection. This new presentation radically transforms an exceptional timepiece whose complications, together with the quality of its construction and production, remain true to their underlying philosophy. Its FB-T.FC.R tourbillon calibre with fusee-and-chain transmission can be admired through a sapphire crystal case-back and two lateral portholes, offering a unique view inside this outstanding chronometer.

 

The Cartier Libre collection

The Cartier Libre collection was born of a desire to play with the Maison’s signature watch shapes. They are stretched, shrunk and transformed into objects of fantasy with unbridled creative license. Cartier Libre appeals to the Collectionneuse, the figure of the watchmaking collector. Hitherto unseen shapes echo the Baignoire and Crash watches. Their proportions are disrupted, volumes accentuated and lines lengthened. Seeking to disrupt the Cartier repertoire, these are adventures in extravagance where precious materials and contrasting colours are breathtakingly feminine and minimalist in design. The aesthetic that emerges is like no other. It defines categorization. The Cartier codes are present; whether visible or perceptible only to the eye of the connoisseur, they are the ultimate guarantee of authenticity.

 

Excalibur Spider Pirelli collection by Roger Dubuis

Characterised by privileged exclusivity, rampant virility and shared commitment to providing money can’t buy experiences, the “Perfect Fit” partnership between Roger Dubuis and car tyre legend Pirelli is rooted in the fact that exclusive service is a must for those seeking to make a lasting imprint on scorching tarmac. In 2018, the proudly unmistakable features and trademark colours of the Excalibur Spider Pirelli collection give way to sleek black titanium and pristine white accents, reminiscent of the tarmac of which this iconic tyre company is king. On this special Pirelli edition of the best-selling model equipped with Calibre 820SQ, the fluted titanium black DLC skeletonised bezel is complemented by a crown over-moulded with white rubber and matching white stitching on the strap.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the new Polaris Collection

Inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a new collection to join the brand’s existing pillars. Not just a single homage to a historical reference, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection takes the spirit of Memovox Polaris and applies it to today’s man of action with a full range of timepieces: a three-hand automatic, a chronograph and a chronograph world time, as well as two models with a stronger vintage feel: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. Combining the high manufacturing know-how of Jaeger-LeCoultre, where all mechanical movements are made in-house, with the robustness, design aesthetic and sporty elegance today’s man demands, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris is destined to become the symbol for an active lifestyle.

 

A. Lange & Sohne launches TRIPLE SPLIT

The TRIPLE SPLIT is the first mechanical split-seconds chronograph in the world that allows multi-hour comparative time measurements. Additional rattrapante hands on the minute and hour totalisers make it possible to stop lap and reference times of events that last as long as twelve hours. At the same time, it has broken the house record of the DOUBLE SPLIT, which in 2004 allowed the first comparative measurements with an aggregate duration of 30 minutes and since then has defended its unique position. With a precisely jumping rattrapante minute counter and a continuous rattrapante hour counter, the TRIPLE SPLIT multiplies the measuring range of the rattrapante function by a factor of 24. This covers many more diversified and interesting applications: for instance, the TRIPLE SPLIT can compare the times of two opponents in a Formula 1 race, a Tour de France leg or a marathon.

 

H. Moser & Cie introduces the Blue Lagoon

Following on from its Cosmic Green dial, H. Moser & Cie. is introducing Blue Lagoon, the classic turquoise of an island paradise. The Venturer Concept Blue Lagoon is the perfect showcase for this new dial, named in honour of its vibrant colour. It marks the first time that H. Moser & Cie. has offered a Concept version of its 39-mm diameter Venturer case. With neither logo nor indices, the effect is understated. The dial takes pride of place, making a statement of minimalist luxury which is immediately recognisable and unmistakable.

 

The Cape Cod by Hermes

Cape Cod welcomes new versions. The first features a rhodium-plated dial, polished to create a mirror-like effect and coated with a precious translucent lacquer. It is available in two versions – Large Model and Small Model – with a single or double tour Milanese mesh bracelet. Two other variations are also introduced, in Large Model version only, with a single or double tour étoupe or Malta blue strap. The dial of the first features a black gold treatment, while the second is blue lacquered. “Anchor Chain” motifs are applied to the dials of these two models – a detail that once again emphasises the spirit of the Cape Cod, which is all about nuances and subtle discoveries.

 

HYT introduces H20

Liquid matters. This fundamental truth is the inspiration, essence and driver of the H20. The new watch by HYT offers radical perspectives on time, through mesmerizing 3D transparency, plus a shape resembling a smoothed stone that has weathered time to perfection. It showcases the essential HYT union of art and science, mirrored by the capacity to defy gravity and measure the passage of time beautifully using fluids. This technology joins forces with a mechanical movement in a coherent whole, symbolic of a fundamental, fascinating fusion of time and space. What it boils down to is a unique timepiece that respects, facilitates and treasures the flow of time.

 

Franck Muller presents the new Vanguard™ Slim

The new Vanguard™ Slim collection embodies a new avatar with its symmetric and ultra-thin case. Featuring a deliberately unique design while introducing a brand new automatic movement, this new model asserts its new personality and remarkable balance proportions through its elegant slim case. The master watchmakers of the manufacture ‘Watchland’ have once again achieved a work of art by reducing the thickness of the case to the maximum while preserving all the features of style, accuracy and technicality of an authentic Vanguard. Our dedicated teams have faced this challenge by minimalizing the in-house automatic movement’s thickness, making this movement just 2.60mm thick.

 
 
 
 

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