Interviews

Exclusive interview with Mr. Stanislas de Quercize, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels

A Brand Par Excellence

Stanislas de Quercize, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, is happy with the progress of the brand. Why shouldn’t be? Van Cleef & Arpels is the brand of royals, socialites, aristocrats and celebrity- the cream of society. You name it and they own it – proudly. Its rich past and bright future tells the whole story.

Van Cleef & Arpels draws on a long tradition of fine watch-making to bring its fabulous new creations to life. It is always aiming to surpass itself in fashioning timepieces unlike any others. De Quercize shares with us time which moves to the pace of happiness and emotions. Below are the excerpts from the interview:

On what foundation has been built the success of 104-year-old Van Cleef & Arpels? Is brand adapting to the new consumer trends and preferences?

In 1896, Estelle Arpels, daughter of a dealer in precious stones, married Alfred Van Cleef, who came from a long line of Dutch craftsmen specialized in cutting precious stones. In 1906, they registered the name “Van Cleef & Arpels” and opened their first boutique on Place Vendome. Our role since then has been to find inspiration in beauty and interpret it with our creativity, select what we call the best Pierre de Caractere, and craft unique pieces of jewellery thanks to our Mains d’Or. That is precisely this combination which makes our Maison a real signature of style, recognizable across our various collections which explore the diversity of our world.

Are you happy with the brand’s performance for 2010?

Yes, sure. As we say VCA also stands for very creative artists which are best shown by the creativity displayed in our high jewellery collection Les Voyages Extraordinaires premiered during the Biennale last September: the success around this collection kept the adventure going with the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva last January.

What is your vision for Van Cleef & Arpels – especially in the Middle East?

Jacques Arpels used to say ‘We only want to offer the best to our clients’. It means to offer the best design: You can recognize a Van Cleef & Arpels from metres away just like with a Picasso, the best stones. We call them Stones of Character and they have this rare ability to make one’s heart beat faster. Finally, the best craftsmanship with our Mains d’Or. Our clients in the Middle East have a sharp eye for quality, and as they are becoming more and more connoisseurs of our Maison. Van Cleef & Arpels has a strong presence in the Middle East and a promising future.

Do you plan to open new exclusive Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques in the Middle East?

Our Maison just opened a boutique in Salhia, Kuwait City, last November and one in Doha, Qatar, in January.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery timepieces are themed and tell a story. Could you please elaborate on these innovations?

Van Cleef & Arpels draws on a long tradition of fine watch-making to bring its fabulous new creations to life. In fact, the Maison has been creating exceptional watches since 1910, always aiming to surpass itself in fashioning timepieces unlike any others.

Born from the imagination of Van Cleef & Arpels, Poetic Complications unveiled in 2006 a new way to perceive High Watchmaking: the discreet precision of the complication movements is combined with the creative virtuosity of the Maison’s workshops. Van Cleef & Arpels thus bestows an intimate dimension to these precious timepieces, that of time which moves to the pace of happiness and emotions.

What are Van Cleef & Arpels novelties for S 2011? What are your expectations?

Van Cleef and Arpels is always aiming at creating timepieces whose inspirations are linked to the Maison’s heritage and creativity but at the same time keeps on exploring new Metiers and developing new technical innovations. The extraordinary dials illustrate this idea since new Metiers d’Art are introduced in the Timepieces every year, the most recent being paillone enamel and vallone enamel.

In this SIHH 2011, Van Cleef & Arpels has decided to spend a little longer on one of the Les Voyages Extraordinaires of Jules Verne: Five weeks in a balloon.

A retrograde minute is indicated by the balloon’s anchor. Positioned on the right of the dial, it descends from zero at the top to sixty at the bottom, and then returns to its starting point at the end of the sixtieth minute. The hours are indicated on the left of the dial by a bird in flight that moves upwards, returning to start again after twelve hours. Beyond the technical feat, this special use of complications gives meaning to Van Cleef & Arpels time. The anchor is a symbol of stability, retaining the memory of a precious moment fixed in The Poetry of Time. The flying bird is a symbol of hope: hope that this precious moment will arrive, or hope for renewal in permanent movement.

What did Van Cleef & Arpels overcome global financial malaise?

The act of purchase is linked to an emotional effect. Feelings are not affected by an economical crisis; our clients still fall in love and have special occasions to celebrate. All throughout history, men and women have worn jewellery to protect themselves. Jewels represent a part of eternity. I would add that the purchase of a jewel or a high-end watch may answer a need for reassurance as well; a unique occasion to link pleasure and patrimonial investment.

The brand has been associated with some of the most glamorous women of the past and present; how helpful has this association with celebrities been for the brand?

Our Maison Van Cleef & Arpels has always been the jeweller most closely associated with beauty and elegance, and today it continues to fascinate the world’s most beautiful and exceptional women.

From its very beginnings, such women have sought after its designs. The Maison has been an important presence at royal coronations, and played its part in the engagements and weddings of some of the most famous lovers of our times. Our jewels have been treasured by legendary Hollywood screen sirens - Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner; adored divas - Maria Callas; world-famous socialites, aristocrats and royalty – Jackie Kennedy, Princess Grace of Monaco, Princess Fawzia of Egypt, Queen Sirikit of Thailand, Princess Soraya of Iran and the crowning of the Shah of Iran; and contemporary stars and actresses such as Ryoko Hirosue, Julia Roberts, Scarlett Johansson, Uma Thurman, Eva Mendes, Anne Hathaway, Cate Blanchett. All these beautiful women have worn Van Cleef & Arpels. Their beauty and talent have made them all “ambassadors” of the Maison.

Market News

UAE remains a major market for Gems and Jewellery

UAE remains a major market for India’s gems and jewellery exports, according to international gem expert. UAE has had a good demand for gems and jewellery items in 2010 and Dubai has seen a rapidly growing industry in diamonds and coloured stones. Ian Harebottle, Chief Executive Officer of Gemfields, predicted that the coloured stones market in the UAE will expand faster than other jewellery category in the next five years.

Christie's to celebrate its 10th sale season in the Middle East

After last year’s sale in October, Christie's will be celebrating their 10th sale season in the Middle East on April 19 and 20 with their jewellery and arts sales. Christie’s is looking forward to sharing an exciting range of spectacular pieces that will be up for auction. Christie's 2010 sales results totaled $51.0 million (£32.9 million), up 157 percent over 2009.

Antiquorum auction in Hong Kong achieves excellent results

Antiquorum has conducted its first auction of the year “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” at the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong on 26 February. The auction achieved excellent results totaling HKD 37'337’125. A remarkable 88.5 percent of the 452 timepieces offered were sold representing 132.47 percent by value. In addition to the strong in-room presence, the auction enjoyed active Internet bidding, in addition to the many telephone and commission bidders.

Middle East carriers achieves 11.7 percent demand growth in January

According to the latest statistics released by the International Air Transport Association (IATA), the global industry watchdog, Airlines in the Middle East achieved a demand growth of 11.7 percent in January compared to the same period of 2010. The region's economy looks positive with a predicted 4.2 per cent GDP growth which is likely to sustain growth in the air traffic market.

Company News

OMEGA as the title sponsor of the Dubai Desert Classic 2011

With OMEGA as the title sponsor of the Dubai Desert Classic 2011, the brand created the Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronometer with an 18 Ct red gold case and a brown leather strap. Alvaro Quiros, the winner of this prestigious event took the Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronometer together with the Arabian coffee-pot shaped tournament trophy, following a thrilling event which saw some of the toughest competition the European Tour has ever seen.

A. Lange & Sohne wins two coveted prizes in the Golden Balance 2011 poll

This year's vote for “Goldene Unruh 2011” (Golden Balance 2011) has resulted in two prizes for A. Lange & Sohne: In the top category “Watches priced over 25,000 Euro” the winner was the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALEN­DAR. While the 1815 MOON­PHASE from the anniversary collection “165 Years – Homage to F. A. Lange” was awarded the second prize in the category “watches priced up to 25,000 Euro”.

Celebrity stars wears Chopard at the 83rd Annual Academy Awards

Celebrity stars wore Chopard at the 83rd Academy Awards which took place on February 27, 2011 at Hollywood's Kodak Theatre in Hollywood, Los Angeles. Among the celebrities are: Colin Firth selected a L.U.C XPS watch, Javier Bardem chose a limited edition L.U.C Regulateur watch, Jennifer Lawrence in Chopard’s diamond earrings paired with bracelet, Penelope Cruz in diamond chandelier earrings and a pink sapphire ring, Mandy Moore in a pair of diamond earrings and ring and Giuliana Rancic in diamond earrings and ring. 

RITMO MUNDO on the red carpet of the Academy Awards

During the 83^rd Academy Awards ceremony (commonly referred to as The Oscars), Jason Kennedy, one of E! Entertainment’s top hosts, made sure he appeared on the red carpet sporting RITMO MUNDO’s PUZZLE watch in black. The timepiece was the perfect triple threat accessory since it added savvy to Kennedy’s attire, gave him the option to toy with the puzzle face cover, all while telling time in style.

Piaget hosts Ladies Lunch in Preparation for Spirit Awards

Piaget hosted an intimate lunch at the Soho House in West Hollywood to celebrate its fifth year as a principal sponsor of the Film Independent Spirit Awards.  Guests included friends of the brand from Los Angeles and London, where Piaget just opened a new flagship such as Heather Graham, Rosario Dawson, Minnie Driver, Lucy Punch, Alice Eve, Lisa Love and Louise Roe. 

Phillips-Van Heusen announces Licensing Agreement with Ritmo Mundo

Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (NYSE: PVH) and Ritmo Mundo have entered into a licensing agreement under which Ritmo Mundo will market and distribute watches for men and women under PVH’s IZOD brand in North America. The new IZOD watch collection is designed to capture the sport-inspired lifestyle for which the IZOD brand is known. The agreement provides for an initial term of five-years, with a three-year renewal at PVH’s option.

Neil Lane Jewelry at the 83rd Annual Academy Awards

Neil Lane Jewelry was present at the 83^rd Annual Academy Awards. Reese Witherspoon wore a diamond and platinum bangle and bracelet, emerald diamond and platinum ring, emerald and diamond earrings. Halle Berry posed with diamond and platinum drop earrings. Jennifer Hudson in fancy colored diamond ring, diamond long basket earrings and wide diamond bracelet. Mila Kunis wore diamond and Platinum Cocktail Ring, diamond and Platinum Straight line Bracelet, diamond and Platinum Bangle and diamond earrings.

Pelikan partners with Porsche Design

Pelikan International Corporation Berhad and Porsche Design Group have signed a cooperation agreement for long term cooperation. On 1st January 2011, Pelikan took over the production and sale of the fine writing instruments from the Porsche Design luxury brand. As a worldwide exclusive Pelikan and Porsche Design presented the new P’3125 Slim Line range of writing instruments for the first time, as well as the two exclusive fountain pens in the P’3105 Pure range.

Eberhard & Co. celebrates the 10th anniversary of its Chrono 4

This year, at Baselworld 2011, Eberhard & Co. will celebrate the 10^th anniversary of its Chrono 4, the 1^st chronograph in watchmaking history with its counters in a straight line. Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1887 by Georges-Emile, Eberhard & Co. presented its first pocket chronograph in 1919. 80 years of technical innovation followed, culminating in 1999 with the Chrono 4 project. After 2 years of research and development, the Chrono 4 was presented at Baselworld 2001.

Product Launch

Raymond Weil presents Maestro - The Elegance of a Chronograph

Raymond Weil has presented its new Maestro Automatic Chronograph watch. With its fine hands at the centre and on the three counters at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, the maestro Chrono has now taken its place in the present and future. The timepiece is equipped with a 41.5mm case; the color of rose gold like the sun setting on the infinite line of the horizon, recalling eternity, the maestro Chrono appears timeless.

Romain Jerome unveils its New Website

RJ Watches has unveiled its brand-new website: www.romainjerome.com. Compatible with all browsers and multimedia instruments, the parallax system together with clear, simple navigation ensure a dynamic and perfectly readable site that enables users to get to know the brand in an entertaining way. The Collections, Distributors and Latest News are now easily available at a click, thereby strengthening ties with aficionados of innovative and contemporary watchmaking.

Saint Honore introduces the Worldcode Automatic

Saint Honore has introduced the new Worldcode Automatic version of the Worldcode watch. With subtly contrasting tones and polished and brushed steel finishes, the Worldcode Automatic recaptures the watchmaking codes of the Chronograph model with power and virility: 41 mm round case; steel bezel finished in shades of brushed steel, titanium, pink or yellow gold; black or white dials, clous de Paris motif or “carbon” dials for a sportier touch; superbly streamlined metal bracelet.

Exhibitions & Events

Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels

In support of Set in Style, Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry will be exhibited at the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum in New York from February 18 to June 5, 2011. Organized by Sarah Coffin, Curator and Head of the museum’s Product Design and Decorative Arts department, this exhibition examines and showcases the principal creations of Van Cleef & Arpels that have influenced the history of design in the 20th century.

Noor Fares to join the panel of Fashion of London Season 1

09twelve in association with Trader Vic's will be hosting its first spectacularly stylish, utterly avant-garde and visionary fashion event at London Hilton Park Lane on 11th March 2011. Among the panel of Fashion of London Season 1, as designer judge will be Noor Fares, a young designer of the jewellery line N.oor.  

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