Talking Italian Jewellery, design and craftsmanship with Vhernier Deputy General Manager – Isabella Traglio; Casio seizes 14% of amazon.ae Watches & Accessories category sales

   
 
 

Interviews

 

Talking Italian Jewellery, design and craftsmanship with Vhernier Deputy General Manager – Isabella Traglio

Vhernier Jewellery recently launched the Coucher De Soleil collection that represent the the DNA of the brand in terms of simplicity, precision and usage of new material such as the bronze. Can you shed more the lights on this collection and its inspiration?

Vhernier was born from the desire of creating contemporary jewellery. We’ll only create a jewel if it is really new and different from anything else existing. Inspiration can be stimulated by many things; it can come from the image in a book, or by looking at a crab walking on the sand, or from a sculpture; in any case there is always a detail, for example a curve, a twist, or a color, which strikes us, from which the whole creative process starts and which is maintained in the jewel. In the case of the Coucher du Soleil collection, everything was born from the desire of reproducing a warm, soft light, like that of the sunset, which is one of the days’ most beautiful moments. We reaserched a lot with materials that could bring that feeling, and with shapes and dimensions that adequately portray this precise moment of the day. The material that seemed the most suitable to honor this atmosphere was bronze. This collection was no easy task and it took us two years of research, spent studying how to achieve utterly flawless shapes from bronze casting, and how to forge the perfect metal band. This was a very time-consuming process, as no corrections can be made to bronze while it is being worked. 
The pieces of this collection are made of vertical elements, in rose gold and bronze. Onto the bronze we placed diamonds, because diamonds stand out much more on bronze than on gold. These elements, connected to one another, all handmade, all smelted one by one, are twisted. A further challenge of this collection, on top of forging the metal, was in combining all the twisted vertical elements together, so that they can be perfectly united and at the same time perfectly elastic. 
We’re so proud of this collection, of its lights and colors; the color shifts from light, reflected by gold, to night, or in any case, a darker moment which is represented by the bronze. Take the cuff, for instance: as it turns, it reflects light, continually. It’s a beautiful light, a warm light, a soft light, like the one of the sunset.

What impact do you expect for the Coucher De Soleil collection to have on sales and especially in the M.E?

This collection has been very successful in the countries that received the creations first, such as Italy. Our customers love the shapes and above all the easy werability of the jewels, given especially by the bronze which is a very light material; although more decorative than is typical of Vhernier’s customary approach, yet this collection still features the clean, understated aesthetics which is our signature. Here in the Middle East, where we are launching right now the collection, it has aroused a lot of interest and we have already received orders. Its being so different from everything reconfirms our identity as an innovative brand both for the shapes and for the materials used, and its success is a further recognition of the fact that customers are more and more looking for contemporary and innovative jewellery.

Your jewellery is manufactured in the famous region of Valenza which is one of the most important gold jewellery regions in Italy. What best separates Vhernier from the other Italian counterparts in your region?

At Vhernier we never get tired of experimenting: it is part of our belief in innovation and of our nonconformist spirit.
The great challenge of contemporary jewellery is to make pieces that are closer to our way of living. For an Italian brand, it is a matter of identifying how to combine innovation with the great tradition of craftsmanship of this country, at the same time maintaining one’s own identity. We have chosen to follow this path by creating something new, with unconventional designs and materials used in an innovative way. And, obviously, we do so always by relying on and by improving the extremely skilled hands of the best Master Craftsmen in our ateliers located in Valenza. We like inventing “the jewel that does not exist yet” and for so doing we begin from the skills of our artisans and go further, finding together a way to craft the new pieces. The preservation of a local heritage combined with innovation is one of the values we stand and strive for.
Few years ago we wanted to create a contemporary gorget: light, soft and totally new. After an almost 3 years long research we created the Blue Velvet, a necklace made of titanium; the metal is shaped into delicate thin blue coloured waves profiled with the most beautiful diamonds. A unique combination, a never before seen piece that epitomises our bold and creative style.
Creating the jewel of tomorrow requires time, patience and the risk of the unknow. We’re definitely courageous, not only in the choice of materials and shapes, but also in our decision of researching a lot to create something that is not already seen. Research is long, involves a lot of risk taking, but it’s what makes jewellery relevant, today.

You have built a reputation of continuously exploring different materials as part of your tradition (such as titanium in your Velvet collection and recently in the Coucher De Soleil collection), while focusing on unconventional designs. How did this strategy helped in building a strong identity for your brand? 

Since the very beginning Vhernier jewellery has been almost as a "form of resistance" to fashions and platitude: we have always refused to follow codes set by others, and instead we have created new ones.
These codes are our own: soft shapes, bold pieces yet rigorously essential, clean. Always with a sense of movement. Creations are often a combination of precious materials with non precious or even non-ritual ones. Colours are bright and bold, because jewellery must also be joyful. These codes helped in defining a Vhernier style, which is immediately recognizable.
What is also very important is that we’re not creating and researching just for the sake of it. To be contemporary, a piece of jewellery must be wearable. Hence all efforts are in creating something that is totally new and at the same time totally wearable, ergonomic.

In 2018, Vhernier celebrated the 20th anniversary of the Calla necklace, one of your signature collections. Does the Calla collection remain to be the main pillar among your collections? and why?

The Calla necklace represents the absolute essence of contemporary jewellery, according to us. To be contemporary, a jewel must be wearable; must be adequate in any situation, and must make a woman look more beautiful, always. From the moment it was launched the Calla necklace has brought a great innovation, mainly for its great wearability. Which is due to its simple, clean line, its almost ancestral form, which suits any face and turns very well on any neck. And also for the combination of different materials, which make it perfect for any time and occasion: gold with ebony, gold with kogolong, or the most beautiful diamonds combined with titanium.
Given the success it encountered and the fact that it is Vhernier’s most emblematic piece, its shape has remained untouched. What we added, to celebrate its 20th anniversary, are materials and new colours combined with diamonds. Such as the "Eyeliner" pave: this pavé we have conceived, which is characterized by a very complex realization, is like a carpet of large and small stones and excites for the apparent randomness with which the diamonds are set. With this new pavé we have added to the poetic rigor of the Calla a new sensuality and exceptional modernity. Because of its understated shape, the Calla necklace has proved an ideal subject for experimenting with an unusual material such as titanium and in 2019 the collection was enriched with bracelets, earrings and rings that adapt to the wearer’s body, yet still retain their aesthetics and recognizable shape. For the first time, the conical elements have been crafted in titanium profiled with diamonds or in titanium and gold and have been curved, allowing them to smoothly embrace wrists, fingers and ear lobes, with a more delicate touch.

How important is the bridal jewellery and the bespoke orders for Vhernier. Any orders you would like to talk about that you have received from the Middle East region?

Both are certainly important, especially in the Middle East. Either it’s more a customization, with customers asking to adapt one of our existing designs - for instance changing the colour of the stones or the shade of gold, making the chains longer or shorter- or it’s a bespoke - where we create from scratch according to the customers will – the co-creation is extremely engaging. More and more customers want to be part of the creative process. It takes some time as there are some necessary steps: first there is design team that must translate and interpret the customers’ desires; then comes the assessment of the feasibility, and then begin the tests with waxes, and all the fittings with the customer. It is truly a job done together, customer and design team, and it’s a wonderful experience.

Could you please profile Vhernier Jewellery buyers in the Middle East?

Customers in the Middle East are extremely knowledgeable: they recognize when a piece is well crafted and only want the best; it’s very rewarding for us, as all our creations are made by the most expert Master Craftsmen using exclusively the best materials. We love the fact that they appreciate our pavé, which is made with the best diamonds we can find on the market: never less than F colour, VVS for clarity and excellence in cut, with excellence in symmetry and proportions. 
They also love our fluid, organic shapes and above all the bright colours of the gemstones we highlight with our famous Trasparenze like the ones featured in the Freccia collection we’ve created exclusively for Dubai which combines diamonds with opal, quartz and rock crystal in a contemporary and bold design. More and more they’re turning to unusual materials, such as titanium paired to diamonds as in our Calla Midi collection, which has been a success in the region. This shows that customers in the Middle East are extremely updated and curious and do are not afraid to explore innovative jewellery. 

What is your expansion plan in this region? Will you be present soon across the Gulf region?

Vhernier is increasingly appreciated for its unique and bold identity. The success we are having is bringing us new opportunities; we will be opening a Vhernier boutique in Kuwait City at The Avenues, within couple of months. 
We aim at bringing a growing audience to appreciate contemporary jewellery, one that’s different from everything else that’s currently on the market. We are eager to increase our presence in the region. 

 
 
 

Market News

 

Casio seizes 14% of amazon.ae Watches & Accessories category sales

Between January 24 to February 20, the amazon.ae ‘Watches & Accesories’ category totalled 2.72M AED, with an increase of 14.81% compared to the previous period. The average selling price for this category grew by over 2.48%, to 208.59 AED. The top brand, Casio, held a significant 14% share of the category market, followed by Emporio Armani (7.6% market share) and Michael Kors (7.2% market share). Within the category, Citizen had the highest-paid ad spend, claiming 24% of the total category ad spend.

 
 

Company News

 

Harry Winston launches new 2021 Campaign dedicated to Love

The House of Harry Winston, the legendary “King of Diamonds,” and international luxury brand announces a new 2021 marketing initiative, focused on the idea of love. The campaign, aptly titled “Love is…,” explores the various meanings of love and how it relates to the House’s core themes throughout the year. The concept of “Love Is…,” will be woven throughout all of the Brand’s communication channels, including advertising, marketing, public relations and social media, and will have dedicated creative for its various product segments.

 

Jean-Claude Biver and WISeKey announces the first NFT auction in the luxury watch space

Jean-Claude Biver and Switzerland's WISeKey International Holding Ltd (SIX: WIHN, NASDAQ: WKEY), a Swiss cybersecurity company, are leading the way in announcing the first historic NFT auction of a luxury watch. The auction took place on March 31, 2021 on the leading Open.Sea NFT MarketPlace, which is already active in the sale of artworks. To mark the history of this first NFT sale of a luxury watch, Jean-Claude Biver has symbolically chosen the famous "Bigger Bang All Black Tourbillon Chrono “Special piece”, a historic piece for the major role it played in paving the way for today's new trends, a watch that has marked Hublot history, an emblem, a symbol of success, a cornerstone, a source of inspiration that has made it Jean-Claude Biver's favorite watch.

 

Casio partners with 1915 by Seddiqi & Sons

Casio continues to extend its presence in the UAE as it partners with 1915 by Seddiqi & Sons to bring the latest G-SHOCK lineup to the brand’s passionate fans in the UAE. The partnership introduces a wide range of watches from Casio’s popular G-SHOCK brand, including two exclusive editions available for purchase in 1915 by Seddiqi & Sons only, a one-stop destination for latest trends in watch fashion, jewellery pieces and accessories from internationally acclaimed brands and designers. G-SHOCK watches GM-5600CX-4 and GM-6900CX-4 series will be available at all 1915 by Seddiqi & Sons stores in the UAE.

 
 

Product Launch

 

Bell & Ross releases the new BR 03-93 GMT

Bell & Ross has made aviation, particularly aeronautical instruments, its specialty. Its designs very often match specifications created by professional users. 2021 is the year of further strengthening the bond with its core business and 1st passion, Aviation. It is also the year Bell & Ross rethinks its GMT Instrument and launches a new version. True to its iconic square flagship model, the new BR 03-93 GMT replaces the existing version. Redesigned, more modern, more functional, more readable. This “tool watch” goes back to basics in terms of design and shape which were influenced by two keywords: functionality and legibility. Its black sunray dial contrasts with its large white photoluminescent numerals and indexes. This color scheme is ingrained in Bell & Ross’ DNA. It echoes the colors used for on-board flight instruments. Cockpits are in fact dominated by black, which prevents reflections, and white, which guarantees optimal reading.

 

Glashütte Original introduces new SeaQ in reed green

The new SeaQ brings the spirit of the brand very first diver’s watch to life, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969. It combines history with modernity by taking up the original look of the Spezimatic and giving it a daring new interpretation for the wearer in the 21st century. Although designed to ensure safety at great depths underwater, the SeaQ is perfectly at home on land as well. With German precision at its heart, it passed the most rigorous tests required for certification as a professional diver’s watch. This sporty timepiece is compliant with the DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 standards for diver’s watches and thus meets the German and international standards of quality. Whatever challenges may lie ahead – one can always rely on the SeaQ. Its water resistance of 20 bar ensures that the SeaQ is well equipped to handle variations in pressure – just like the sporting gentleman and active woman of today.

 

URWERK presents the UR-100V "Blue Planet"

URWERK’s horological Skunk Works launches a series of 25 time - and space - measuring instruments into orbit. UR-100V “Blue Planet” tracks the earth and our solar system: it’s a 24-hour invitation to interstellar travel and the pleasure of savoring time. Blending form and function, calculation and imagery, and theory and actuality, the UR-100V is adorned in blue: blue for the steel case, blue for the atypical movement, blue for the orbital carousel. A blue recalling our planet earth. Against this uniform blue background, the fluorescent yellow and green arrowhead hand is a shooting star.

 

De Bethune presents DB27 Titan Hawk

It was in March 2018 that De Bethune’s manufacture introduced the latest in-house self-winding caliber; the Auto V2, the beating heart of a timepiece with a modern twist. Indeed, the DB27 Titan Hawk draws its inspiration from the design and technology of its predecessors while adding an innovative touch. Slim lines, a green microlight dial, sandblasted steel minute hands with hand-polished steel tips, a microlight case middle, and brushed lugs and open back. A watch that stands out not only for its sleek design but also for its entirely manufactured movement. Focusing on the essentials, the DB27 Titan Hawk is equipped with the latest AUTOV2 caliber, hour, minute, second, which features a single barrel providing 60 hours of power reserve. The last titanium balance with white gold inserts remains visible on the back of the watch.

 

Introducing the new limited edition DELMA Heritage Chronograph

In 1946 Delma released its first chronograph at a time when wristwatches were previously seen as exclusive professional instruments for aviators, racers and military men. The Heritage Chronograph LE bicompax chronograph joins the collection in 2021 in invigorated yet classic form. Limited to only 75 pieces per model in recognition of this milestone, it maintains essential characteristics of the original and features a Tachymeter and Telemeter, now powered by an automatic movement. Now comprised of a 3-hand, as well as bicompax and three counter chronographs, it demonstrates the timeless nature of a quintessential timepiece, improved over time with the innovation of new technical features and materials while the design and quality remain eternally modern.

 

Introducing Ferragamo Racing

Perfectly balancing sporty character and pure elegance, the man’s chronograph Ferragamo Racing expresses the essence of Ferragamo’s contemporary aesthetics. Black or dark blue, the guilloche dial is highlighted by the bezel’s polished surface, while the two counters enclosed in the double Gancini logo design an equally subtle and unique motif. The black leather strap balances with classic refinement the sporty soul of Ferragamo Racing, while other details, such as the embossed “F” on the crown and the double Gancini logo on the buckle, further emphasize its identity.

 

Pomellato launches Brera 2021 collection

For 2021, Pomellato celebrates its Maison’s singular style with striking new Brera jewels, crafted for the chic fashionista. Enriched with Italian flair and masterful craftsmanship, new Brera creations include an ‘ear cuff,’ dangle earrings, and two between-the-finger rings. With absolute distinction, Brera jewels are sculpted for the woman who dares to start the conversation, in audacious Italian style. Asserting her unique fashion statement, the Brera woman brings a youthful aura to the fine jewelry world. In dramatic designs the Maison has never made before, Brera redefines Pomellato creativity. The Brera woman embraces this fresh approach, her jewels both contemporary and chic.

 

Presenting the exclusive Around the World LV chain Links Necklaces

Originally inspired by a traditional links necklace, it was presented at Virgil Abloh’s very first show dressed in precious materials, ceramics or set with turquoise stones. This season, a limited series of the LV Chain Links necklace is available in an exceptional edition unveiled at the pop-up store dedicated to Virgil Abloh’s icons for Louis Vuitton. Twelve cities, twelve necklaces, twelve months throughout the year, a specific necklace will be released in a city around the world, in a limited, numbered edition of twelve pieces only. The necklaces will be available in Paris in January, in Miami in December, passing by Shanghai, Tokyo, Dubai, Los Angeles, London, Seoul, Singapore, Chicago, Milan and Hong Kong. And for each destination the jewel will feature a unique and distinctive pop colour combination. April 2021 will showcase the Dubai exclusive chain.

 
 

Celebrity News

 

Gillian Anderson attended the 27th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards wearing jewelry by Chopard

On 4th April 2021, actress Gillian Anderson attended the 27th Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards wearing jewelry by Chopard. Gillian wore a necklace featuring 43.11 carats of pear-shaped diamonds from the Green Carpet collection and a ring featuring 1.32 carats of diamonds set in 18-carat white gold from the Precious Lace collection.

 

Tracee Ellis Ross wears Tiffany & Co. at the 2021 NAACP Image Awards

Nominated for both Outstanding Actress in a Motion Picture for “High Note” and Outstanding Actress in a Comedy Series for “Black-ish” Tracee Ellis Ross wore Tiffany & Co. by legendary designer Elsa Peretti®. Ross appeared in a bold Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti® Snake necklace and iconic Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti® Bone Cuffs on each wrist in 18k gold. Introduced over fifty years ago, the groundbreaking Bone Cuff design is sculpted to conform to the wrist.

 
 
 
 

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