Interviews

Exclusive interview with Laurence Nicolas, President of Dior Watches and Jewellery

Dior’s timeless creations

Companies are best described by their mottoes. But few stay loyal to them. Luxury watches and jewellery maker Dior is not among those few. Universally-acknowledged designs and creativity are hallmark of its collection. Dior has been forcefully loyal to Monsieur Dior’s motto that “genuine luxury requires genuine materials and the craftsman’s sincerity.” Laurence Nicolas, President of Dior Watches and Jewellery, is strengthening this bond further since taking over the unit’s in 2008. Below are excerpts from the interview with Nicolas.

How significant is Dior Watches and Jewellery segment in the group’s multi-product portfolio of perfumes, cosmetics and other exquisite fashion accessories?

I would say a significant and growing part.

Apart from heading the Fine Jewellery, you took over Dior Watches also in February 2008. How do you synchronize the two lines in terms of creativity, position and retail network?

Our collections are created by designers in our Parisian studios for Timepieces and under Victoire de Castellane’s artistic direction for Fine Jewellery. For both categories, our inspiration comes from the roots of the Haute Couture House and its first designer. Both categories are distributed in Dior Boutiques, either stand alone, such as Vendome, or amidst the brand universes as in Dubai Mall.

Ceramic is an essential part of your watches. When and how did I come in to use for watches? Do you feel it’s high time to migrate into another fusion of material?

Monsieur Dior used to say: “Genuine luxury requires genuine materials and the craftsman’s sincerity.” Ceramic was the only material that made the production of an intensely black and homogenous material possible without any apparent steel structure between the links. In the end, the important thing was to be able to create that structure. We may well compare this work to the one carried out on the Lady Dior bag, whose essential feature of the Lady Dior is the lambskin, structured by the hand of man, in order to create the Cannage pattern.

You recently revealed Dior VIII that pays a strong tribute to the Dior Couture. What other influences have defined Dior VIII design concept? How much of the Dior VIII is La-Chaux-de-Fonds manufacturer?

Eight was Christian Dior’s lucky number. A superstitious man, he opened his house on 8th of October 1946, Avenue Montaigne, in the VIIIth arrondissement of Paris and called his first collection “En Huit” (In Eight). Since then, the 8 also evokes 8 Place Vendome, showcase of the Jewellery and Timepiece collections but also the 8 sides of the pyramid and the 8 sides of the Cannage pattern. 

It evokes, via the very structure of its bracelet, one of the fundamental aspects of the House of Dior, that is to say the architectural work on a garment so dear to Monsieur Dior. Indeed, he used to say: "I dreamt of being an architect; as a couturier, I have to respect the principles of architecture.”  

Like the Lady Dior handbag, with its graphic design, construction and Cannage calfskin, this timepiece’s Dior personality can also be found in:

* The brilliance and sensuality of the material which gives the wristwatch its femininity.

* The demanding requirements and know-how of a House where the inside must be as beautiful as the outside, with visible oscillating weight, sometimes lacquered in a bright colour: “Elegance is an ensemble, where the invisible is as important as the visible” (Christian Dior).   

All our timepieces and thus Dior VIII are entirely Swiss made and Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior in La Chaux-de-Fonds are finding the best partners to match the best watchmaking craftsmanship and give birth to our creative ideas. It’s the same thing as when Haute Couture, that is made in Dior’s ateliers in Paris, is working with the best feather makers or the best embroiders.

Over the past six decades, how has the House of Dior made watches and jewellery relevant to their times?

By an amazing creativity mixed with a really strict craftsmanship: a Parisian one for Fine Jewellery and a Swiss one for Timepieces. Our challenge is that creativity makes craftsmanship evolve. If I can give you two examples: for the last High Jewellery collection that will be presented in July in Paris, the techniques that have been used have never been done in any other Fine Jewellery brand. It was already the case for Belladone Island collection in 2007 where the most expert Parisian workshops we worked with, had to create new tools and invent new techniques to answer our creative purpose.

For Timepieces, it is the same approach where technique must be the way to give birth to creative concepts. On Dior VIII, it is especially the case in the Grand Bal versions (coming in November) because they are equipped with the “Dior Inversé” caliber (“Dior inverted” caliber). This is a functional oscillating weight in gold with a lace effect, embroidered with diamonds pleated with mother-of-pearl. This calibre is a technical feat because the oscillating weight is in openwork and, as the design of each model is different, requires a total recalculation of the inertia of each weight for each model.

Do you intend to use a prominent figure as brand ambassador for watches and jewellery division? Have you ever thought of appointing an Arab celebrity to represent your brand?

The Timepiece of our Couture House had to be represented by a woman. Charlize Theron being the image of the perfume “J’adore”, she was the natural choice for us. For Fine Jewellery, our ambassadress is our creator Victoire de Castellane. With regard o appointing an Arab celebrity, yes we do it regularly for key events in the region. For example, we used to work a lot with Yousra.

What is Dior’s strategy to promote jewellery and watches in the region? Do you plan to set up more exclusive boutiques in here?

Dior Fine Jewellery and Timepieces is following the strategy of the brand in term of Dior boutique openings.

Could you please profile Dior watches and jewellery buyers in the Middle East?

Middle Eastern customers are very expert in stones and horology, and know very well what they like. They are looking for timeless creations, with the best craftsmanship. We also often create made-to-measure pieces for special events or customers of the region.  

Market News

Global Brands set eyes on Local Market

Named as top shopping destination in the world, a growing number of global brands are creating some strategies on how to get closer to their increasing Middle Eastern consumer base. The trend, while not new, is a sign of the Middle East's growing status in the global luxury market. Some international brands are embracing Emirati and locally-based personalities to be their brand ambassadors and to boost the image of the brand in the UAE and beyond. Local endorsement proves to be a useful vehicle to build the brand awareness and create the desired brand image speedily on local market.

Joint Venture Agreement between Swatch Group and Saleh Mohammad Alzouman Sons Co. Ltd. Saudi Arabia

The Swatch Group Ltd and Saleh Mohammad Alzouman Sons Co. Ltd. (Kingdom of Saudi Arabia) announced that The Swatch Group Ltd through its affiliate Technocorp Holding Ltd has taken a 33.3% participation of the total share capital of 60 million Saudi Riyals of the Alzouman General Trading Co. Ltd. in Jeddah (Saudi Arabia). Alzouman General Trading Co. Ltd., a company of the Alzouman Group Saleh Mohammad Alzouman Sons Co. Ltd., distributes Swatch and Flik Flak brands, mainly throughout its own stores at prime retail locations in Saudi Arabia. Mr. Mohammad Saleh Alzouman, Chairman and CEO, and Mr. Abdullah Saleh Alzouman, Deputy Chairman and COO, will continue to manage the company and develop the activities of the two brands.

Chopard to officially open its offices in the Middle East soon

Chopard the world renowned Watch and Jewellery brand will soon reveal its Middle East Offices. This regional operation will be based in Dubai and according to close resources it should be officially announced by the last quarter of 2011.

Qatar named as Richest Nation on Earth

According to the recently released 2010 List by Global Finance, a leading US business magazine, Qatar became the wealthiest nation on earth in 2010 after it steadily pushed up its way on the global rich list, aided by its massive gas wealth. The small European state of Luxembourg was the second richest while Kuwait and the UAE followed Qatar as the wealthiest countries in the Arab region. The report noted that Qatar is now the largest gas exporter in the world and its proven natural gas resources of 25 trillion cubic metres are the world’s third largest after those of Russia and Iran.

Company News

HUBLOT celebrates the opening of its boutique Place Vendome

The opening of the Hublot boutique at 10 Place Vendome marks the latest event in the brand's fantastic expansion to all the major luxury shopping hubs across the world. Inaugurated on the evening of the 14th June 2011 in the presence of Alain Delon, the President of the Place Vendome committee Beatrice de Plinval and Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver, with a Swiss-themed ambience of cows, fondue, Alpine horns, Swiss wine and Gruyere double cream meringues, 10 Place Vendome is an exceptional location, set on two levels, at the heart of the world's luxury sector, reinforcing the Swiss watchmaking brand's position as one of the sector's biggest players.

Cartier Time Art Exhibition

Cartier will host a worldwide traveling exhibition of its timepieces, showcasing more than 100 items from its historical collection and 20 contemporary fine watches, the largest display of Cartier watches to be seen in public. The exhibition will also encompass timepieces that highlight the brand’s technical and aesthetic creativity, including a Tortue single push-piece chronograph created in 1929 and a contemporary Santos 100 Skeleton watch. One-hundred and fifty-six vintage Cartier watches will be part of the exhibit, including wristwatches, travel clocks and chatelaine-watches. The exhibition will be directed by the award-winning Tokujin Yoshioka.

Chopard at the PuristSPro’s 10th anniversary event

Chopard participated in IGOTT-2, the PuristSPro’s 10^th anniversary three day event held in Las Vegas, featuring a day exclusively dedicated to Chopard. Chopard celebrated 10 years of the PuristSPro with a 15 year retrospective of the L.U.C Manufacture, a go-kart excursion, a presentation given by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and an evening at the Ferrari dealership. The event brought together the industry’s most distinguished brands, independent watchmakers and personalities for three full days of exclusive presentations, discussions, and events to celebrate the art of fine watchmaking.  

Jaeger-LeCoultre becomes the official partner of Shanghai International Film Festival

Jaeger-LeCoultre has recently announced that it has become the official partner of the 14th Shanghai International Film Festival (SIFF). This year's festival has attracted 1,519 films from 102 countries and regions. All of them are applying to compete for the top Golden Goblet award. The cooperation between Jaeger-LeCoultre and SIFF will last for three years, during which both sides will work together to restore a number of Chinese classic films and support young and prominent Chinese film directors.

Breakfast with Tiffany

TIFFANY & CO, the world's premier jeweler and America's house of design is celebrating the opening of “TIFFANY & CO” regional office in Dubai on Tuesday 21^st of June 2011. The event will be held under the theme “Breakfast with Tiffany” in the company’s office in Dubai “Emirates Towers” 34^th floor between 10 am and noon.

DeWitt as Official Timing Partner of Guards Polo Club

For the second consecutive year, DeWitt is proud to be the “Official Timing Partner” of  Europe’s leading club, the Guards Polo Club. Held on June 8^th, the Harcourt Developments Queen's Cup semi-finals, sponsored by DeWitt, was the occasion for Mr Jerome de Witt to welcome some 40 VIP guests in the Royal Box for a presentation of exclusive timepieces. This dazzling timepiece, an Academia Chronostream in rose gold and tantalum, displays the miniature logo of the Guards Polo Club, meticulously hand-reproduced on its dial. The first piece of this special series was presented by Mr. de Witt to Milo Fernandez-Araujo, the most valuable player of the Queen's Cup final.

Largest Gc Boutique officially inaugurated in Jeddah

Al-Dawliya for Watches has inaugurated its flagship Gc boutique, the largest in the world thus far. In the presence of his Excellency Mr. Hans Stalder (Consul General of Switzerland), Sayed. Taha Ali Al-Haddad (Managing Director of Al-Dawliya), and Mr. John Marcheschi (President of Sequel International) the Jeddah Gc Boutique opened its doors to a 63 Sqm space dedicated to the fine collection of Gc Watches & Jewelry. The newly opened boutique carries a wide range of luxuriously crafted Gc Watches and Jewelry, as well as an exclusive collection of Special Edition and Limited Edition timepieces.

RJ-Romain Jerome rocks the watchmaking scene at Selfridges

RJ-Romain Jerome has chosen the legendary Selfridges & Co. department store in London, an exceptional address that opened over a century ago and has become a truly global ambassador of luxury. A temple of luxury now inhabited by the “Titanic DNA”, “Moon DNA” and Eyjafjalljokull DNA” collections, along with an exclusive timepiece specially introduced by RJ-Romain Jerome to celebrate the occasion. Loyal to its explosive creative streak, this resolutely 3rd millennium watchmaking has designed a watch featuring fine yellow stripes. The pure, understated design and the flawless black shade reflect the colour signature of the great British retail institution.

Christophe Claret receives the Jury Prize for Outstanding Innovation

Presented as part of the Couture Design Awards, the Couture Time Jury Prize for outstanding invention or innovation category was presented to Christophe Claret for the 21 Blackjack watch during the fabulous Encore Ballroom at the Wynn Las Vegas for the inaugural presentation of the Couture Time Jury Prize. The jurors included John Reardon, head of the Watch and Clock Department at Sotheby’s in New York; Keith Strandberg, International Editor at Watch Journal; veteran watch journalist Roberta Naas; watch collector and TimeZone.com forum moderator Sam Yukon; and Nick Stellino, a celebrity chef and watch collector.

F.P. Journe at Charity donation ceremony for Japan

F.P. Journe in collaboration with Christie’s has announced the extraordinary sales result of the Centigraphe Sport Number 001 with the final price soared to HK$ 3,620,000 /US$ 465,170 during the Christie’s Hong Kong Spring auction. The fund donation ceremony took place at the Embassy of Switzerland in Tokyo on June 3rd, 2011, in the presence of his Excellence the Ambassador Mr. Urs Bucher, Mr. François-Paul Journe, Ms. Yuko Fukagawa from Christie’s Japan, Mr Richard Bliah, founder of the franco-japanese FERE foundation, and the representative of Medecins du Monde.

LOUIS MOINET at the Polo De Paris

On the occasion of an exceptional tournament to be held on June 27th 2011 at the famous Polo Club de Paris, LES ATELIERS LOUIS MOINET SA, in its capacity as official sponsor alongside other prestigious brands, will have the honour of presenting a team wearing the brand colours. It is thus within this well-reputed setting that the Louis Moinet polo team will be defending the firm’s colours, and Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Les Ateliers Louis Moinet SA, will also present the brand’s latest new models to a gathering of some 350 prestigious guests.

Ladoire's Black Widow hits the Jackpot in Las Vegas

The sultry Black Widow has struck yet again. During the inaugural presentation ceremony took in the fabulous Encore Ballroom at the Wynn Hotel/Casino in Las Vegas, Ladoire’s Black Widow received the prize for best "Watch Architecture". With its distinctive asymmetrical case, open-dial architecture, discrete time indications and bespoke strap and buckle, it’s not hard to see why Black Widow snared the award, which took into account excellence in case, dial and/or strap design. Presented as part of the Couture Design Awards, the prize-giving ceremony on the 4th of June in Las Vegas was the culmination of the Couture Time exhibition and is the only contest of its kind in the USA.

Robb Report's "Best of the Best 2011" Pens

Montegrappa has announced that the editors of Robb Report, the USA's most prestigious luxury journal, have selected Montegrappa Icons Tribute to Muhammad Ali Knockout Edition as the "Best of the Best" Pen in their just-published signature June issue. This 23^rd annual "Best of the Best" edition represents an entire year's search for the luxury world's most exceptional new products and services. The Knockout Edition honoured by Robb Report is an exclusive version of the gold-trimmed pens, set with diamonds in the cap's end-piece. Only 37 in total will be produced, the client selecting either fountain pen or roller ball.

Olivia Wilde wears Carrera y Carrera to Chrysalis Butterfly Ball

During the 10^th Annual Chrysalis Butterfly Ball held at a private resident in Los Angeles, California, Olivia Wilde wore Carrera y Carrera "Gardenia" 18k White Gold and Pearl Stud Earrings. Based in Madrid, Carrera y Carrera is one of Spain's premiere jewelers. Created in limited quantities, each piece is a work of art that merges intricate goldsmith techniques with precious stones.

Product Launch

Vacheron Constantin launches two models of Overseas Collection

Vacheron Constantin is enriching its Overseas collection in 2011 with the launch of two new models representing the future of this elegantly sporty and technical line. The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar “Boutiques Exclusive” signals the introduction of “high complications” into the collection while the Overseas Small Model Date Self-Winding dedicated to women is distinguished by a mechanical self-winding movement and an eminently contemporary new design. This new Overseas ladies’ watch is notably distinguished by its 36 mm-diameter case in 18-carat pink gold.

The Ceramic by Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz has presented its latest three models in ceramic. Scratchproof, inert and produced with exceptional expertise at extreme temperatures, the ceramic of the case symbolizes the values of purity, durability and refinement so dear to Jaquet Droz. The Grande Seconde Ceramic Black displays an elegance that is intended to last: the 44 mm watchcase is made of resistant ceramic, whose color and radiance will never fade. With its self-winding double-barrel mechanical movement, the Grande Seconde Ceramic Mother-of-Pearls appeals to the best in Jaquet Droz tradition. Last but not least, a complication that transcends Time, the Perpetual Calendar Ceramic marks the passing of the days of every month, whose number changes in leap years.

Bell & Ross presents the BR 01 RED RADAR

This year, Bell & Ross is offering a new interpretation of its radar display, making it more analogous to the original instrument. Inspired by Air Traffic Control Radars, Bell & Ross proudly present the BR 01 Red Radar. The BR 01 RED RADAR analog display is uncannily similar to radar on air traffic controls. Its graphics feature the sweeping effect of a light beam on an actual radar screen. Despite its apparent simplicity, the BR 01 RED RADAR is highly sophisticated. The technical challenge posed by its design and production required a concerted effort from the best watchmaking engineers. The timepiece is limited edition of 999 pieces.

Pomellato unveils Tango Gold Collection

Pomellato has unveiled its latest Tango Gold Collection, the perfect accessory for a classic style. Navy blue and white, the fresh and timeless classic, has a perfect new partner in Pomellato’s Tango rose gold cuff. This beautiful bracelet of impressive proportions, with giant flat rose gold chain links is still wonderfully feminine, with its chic simplicity.  Equally chic is the elegant rose gold chain-link ring, in the same style.

Priyanka Chopra celebrates womanhood with ASMI

LIALI Jewellery prides itself in presenting former Miss World and leading Bollywood actress Priyanka Chopra as the new face of ASMI, a collection of fine diamond jewellery that features the four important phases in a woman’s life. ASMI, a Sanskrit word which means “I Am” features diamond jewellery that has contemporary, delicate and feminine look that is distinctly evocative of strength and grace. LIALI unfurls the collection with 140 designs made of original diamonds set in 18k yellow gold.

Exhibitions & Events

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2011

This year, the world's largest timepiece event, the Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair will take place on September 7 to 11, 2011 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre 1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong. Organized by the HKTDC, the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd, and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades and Industries Ltd., the fair will showcase both Hong Kong and international brands. In 2010, the fair posted a successful result attracted a total of 700 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions; they covered the spectrum of the industry, including complete watches and clocks, parts, components, equipment, machinery, packaging and display, retail supplies and technologies, and trade-related services.

Antiquorum's June New York Sale announces outstanding results

On 8^th of June 2011, watch aficionados came together for Antiquorum's summer sale of Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, which totaled a remarkable $4,500,075. The all-day sale held in Antiquorum's New York City auction room featured an exceptional collection of 351 luxury timepieces, of which 118 percent were sold by value. The two highlights of the sale were the Vacheron & Constantin Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Piece Unique and the Audemars Piguet Grand Complication Piece Unique specially made for Arnold Schwarzenegger.

31st MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show

The 31^st edition of MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show will be held from October 4-8, 2011 at Expo Centre Sharjah. The show will also build on the huge success of its spring edition this year, when it recorded 53,340 visitors during its five-day run, a six percent rise over the previous spring edition. The event which has already seen an exhibitor retention rate of nearly 90 percent is expected to occupy a total exhibition area of 16,000 square metres and host more than 450 master jewelers from around the world.

The New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show 2011

US Antique Shows, a major producer of antique shows in North America, has announced that The New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show will be returning to the Metropolitan Pavilion on July 22-25, 2011. This year will mark the 5^th Anniversary of the ever-growing New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show and will host more than 100 of the world’s most distinguished and prominent dealers of antique jewelry and watches.  As such, a number of new exhibitors will be added for variety and an expanded selection. In addition to the new exhibitors, the show will display well-known brands such as Harry Winston, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Patek Phillipe, Tiffany & Co., Rolex and many others. 

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