The year 2010 was an interesting one in terms of Timepieces- and time in general. The industry has witnessed much turbulence wrought by the continuing economic recession. Nevertheless, resilience is the name of the game and the trade continues to impress with ingenious and innovative new watch models.
Our New Jersey, USA-based special correspondent Roberta Naas, an acclaimed industry expert and a keen observer of the premium watches and fine jewellery scene, presents the latest industry trends and directions in 2010.
A Return to Roots
Perhaps first and foremost, 2010 can be seen as a year wherein many brands returned to their roots. Most went to archives and reflected on richer, safer, more storied pasts – pulling design inspiration from those times and creating classic, retro collections that offer clean, non-ostentatious looks. This trend crossed all price points, from the average retails to the high end brands.
The important thing about returning to the archives for many brands is that it gives a lot of latitude in terms of watch materials, shapes, sizes and pricing. In many instances, brands are able to recreate vintage looks in steel for less expensive prices – an important element for world markets that are still soft. Many brands this year introduced new opening price points in an effort to attract new buyers and keep buyers who are more reticent to spend their usual high-ticket prices.
Among the more alluring retro or vintage watches to strike a chord this year are the Vacheron Constantin Heritage, F.P.Journe’s Classic, and the impressive Patek Philippe Patek Philippe Annual Calendar with Chronograph, Ref. 5950 with engraving on the dial, and A. Lange’ & Sohne’s 1815 series. Also drawing inspiration from its roots and offering classic styling of impressive proportions is TAG Heuer with Carrera Caliber 1887 Chrono and Montblanc with its Villeret, Star and TimeWalker series.
Black Beauties
In juxtaposition to the classic looks, this year also saw an amazing wealth of extremely creative visionary, even futuristic, timepieces in terms of materials and designs. This was the year of PVD (physical vapor deposit) and DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) like never before. While PVD has been around for years and was the preferred method for going “black” – the new DLC treatment is taking the limelight at the higher end. This process results in a hardness of 4000 to 5000 HV (Vickers) and makes the surface basically impervious to scratches. Essentially a diamond coating is deposited on either titanium or steel via an ionic bombardment of carbon under vacuum (which then turns to diamond surface).
Because of the popularity of the rich black look on timepieces today, this has become a hot trend as we move into the new decade. All black watches are being created as dress watches, sport watches and even stealth watches by brands such as Perrelet for its Turbine XL, Hublot and even Christophe Claret for his DualTow Night Eagle.
Following closely behind the all-black trend is the black-with-a-hint-of-color look – as a lot of the brands unveil black with luminous and color treated hands and markers in red, blue, orange, yellow and lime green.
Innovative Moves
While the black DLC and PVD trend was especially popular in the sport arena this year, so, too, were ceramic and titanium watches. Additionally, a number of brands turned to other high-tech materials for durability and even aeronautical influences. Such materials included some new alloys, as well as the beloved carbon fiber, magnesium and palladium to a lesser degree. In terms of types of timepieces the sport area was ripe with all sorts of chronographs – particularly monopushers and watches with dual-readout indicators as opposed to the traditional three-eyed subdial versions.
Moving to the higher end and more complicated watches, a wealth of new inventions and design developments graced the timepiece annals. Of particular note are the emergence of chains and trains as opposed to traditional gears, wheels and teeth. Ladoire, Lange & Sohne, Breguet, Dewitt and a few others all unveiled watches whose movements offered either chain fusee’ systems or belts.
Other innovative designs that arose out of the need to create different methods of displaying time came from brands such as MB&F with the Horological Machines nicknamed Thunderbolt and Owl, Hautlence with the new round HLQ, Christophe Claret with the recently released Autumnal DualTow and Ulysse Nardin with the Freak Diavolo.
Complicated Times
Certain genre’s in the complicated watch realm enjoyed particular recognition this year – including the tourbillon (once again) and the perpetual calendar. Tourbillions that continue to surprise and delight come from brands such as Greubel Forsey whose double and triple tourbillons and tourbillons at 30 degrees are true technical marvels, Zenith with the Christophe Columb that features an independently spinning tourbillon case set within the dial, Concord, whose C1 tourbillon is pulled out of the movement on to the case side and Piaget, whose Tourbillon Relatif continues to be reinvented in new modes, such as the Jazz version that features a musical motif on the dial. The Tourbillon Relatif separates the tourbillon carriage from the rest of the movement and suspends it on the minute hand. The tourbillon spins once per minute on its own axis and the entire carriage makes its way around the watch dial once per hour – making this a visually stimulating beauty and a technical marvel.
There are a host of others, and more and more continue to emerge – with mystery settings and innovative new move-around-the-dial innovations. Now that Hublot has purchased BNB movement Manufacture’s machines, designs and taken on its former CEO and 30 craftsmen, the brand is currently production its own tourbillon watches in very limited numbers in a major move for the brand.
Another innovative category in the complicated realm is perpetual calendars, as more and more brands find new ways to indicate moon phases, leap years, day, date and month indications and even celestial and hemisphere readouts.
Women’s Wonders
For women, it was a very interesting year as many brands returned to the concepts of beauty and brains – offering of femininity in design and mechanics in soul. In other words beautiful cases and dials emerged, often themed to emulate nature - florals, fauna, wildlife and romantic themes – translated in all metals – with rose gold being the predominant choice. Of particular note are several stunning series such as Chopard’s high jeweled Animal World collection (including an owl, polar bear, monkey and other wilder beasts), Cartier’s series (of lions, elephants and more), and even Ulysse Nardin’s Tiger and Safari pieces.
Geometric designs also played an important role this year, as well, with ovals, rounds and unusual shapes coming into play. Cartier continues to be a leader in unusual case shapes, as does de Grisogono and Piaget.
There was also renewed focus on mechanical watches for women, with many brands offering collections designed specifically for women rather than adapting men’s lines. One such brand was Omega with the unveiling of the LadyMatic series, and Corum pulls out the stops with its Miss Golden Bridge. Van Cleef & Arpels sent hearts soaring with the romantic retrograde Pont des Amoureux, and Girard-Perregaux continues to dazzle with new Cat’s Eye versions.
Gemstones and diamonds were omnipresent this year, as well, despite the concept of a soft economy. Often there were just diamond dials, but many brands continued to boast completely bedecked timepieces with diamonds and gemstones mixed, and with beautifully set baguette pieces. Among the most alluring: Hublot, Dior and Franck Muller with its new Four Seasons watch.
Expansions
Finally, watch companies continue to invest in research and development, in expansion of world boutiques, in partnering with athletes, celebrities and world ambassadors and in supporting philanthropic causes to better the earth and its people and resources. So despite the economic trends, the watch industry embraces a positive future.