Market Report

Skeleton Watches by Keith W. Strandberg

With the incredible popularity of mechanical watches, it’s only natural that owners enjoy admiring the turning balance wheel and the movement of the mechanics – pinions, wheels and tiny gears. Many watches have exhibition backs, but that’s not enough for some people – and that’s why skeleton watches have become so very popular.

Skeleton watches range from watches with dial-side openings (partial skeletons, really) to watches with no dial, showing the entire movement. Exposing the movement in most cases means decorating the parts, as utilitarian movements are typically not particularly attractive (aside from brands like Greubel Forsey, Montblanc Villeret and Geneva Seal movements, where all surfaces are finished beautifully, whether or not they are visible).

Focus on the Movement

Because the movement is on display, it’s important for skeleton watches to showcase the movement in the very best way. Says Guillaume Tetu, CEO, Hautlence, “The key consideration is to create a kinetic show in the watch, playing with light and finishing. The goal is to open a maximum of surface to see the mechanism and play with the light on the surfaces of the movement.”

A skeleton watch is all about the beauty of the movement, and can often mean skeletonizing a complication, like a chronograph.

“Besides the thinness and finishing of the movement, the aesthetic of the movement is so important because it is entirely visible,” says Larry Pettinelli, president, Patek Philippe NA. “A skeleton allows the wearer to appreciate the beauty and complexity of the movement.  For Patek Philippe, it is the hand craftsmanship and finishing of each and every element that brings this work of art to the highest level.”

Most high end companies choose to highlight their best movements in their skeleton range, liked Zenith’s famous chronograph, the El Primero.

“The Open concept within Zenith’s El Primero Chronomaster collection is the realization of technical prowess: to make the regulating organ visible – the main characteristic for Zenith as it uncovers the very essence of time and reveals, in the opening on its dial, the 36,000 vibrations of its movement: the legendary El Primero,” says Philippe Dufour, president and CEO of Zenith. “The purpose is definitely to reveal the beauty and speciality of the movement and see a mechanical watches’ ‘heart’ beating.”

Armin Strom (Armin Strom AG) made his name skeletonizing movements, making each watch a piece unique. “The purpose of skeletonization is to make the movement and its functions as transparent as possible,” details Strom. “To remove all unnecessary parts of a watch plate. This however never affects the function of a movement.”

The Work Involved

Skeletonizing a watch involves intensive work, as all the surfaces visible to the eye have to be finished, decorated and polished.

“From research and development to final quality control, the entire timepiece can take over three years to complete,” details Patek’s Pettinelli. “Patek Philippe’s Caliber 177 works so well due to the extra thin movement (just 1.77 mm high), it has a traditional shape and has four main bridges that lend a landscape for beautiful hand finishing.  The Caliber 240 featured in the men’s Ref. 5180/1G is an equally great example for skeletonizing due to the four bridges (barrel, train, automatic and balance wheel) that showcase hand crafted engraving. It is important to note that a skeleton timepiece does not feature a dial, which allows for an incredibly thin profile.”

“There is considerable work involved in skeletonizing as it involves several additional work-steps on the dial and also on the movement – both have to be perfectly coordinated one to the other,” explains Zenith’s Dufour. “This might seem like just a cut-off of the dial but actually it is a meticulous micro-engineering tasks as much as art as it has to be harmonious with the design of the dial.”

For watches that are specifically designed to be skeletons, the groundwork needed to realize a beautiful watch is painstaking and difficult. “A very specific study is needed to prepare the piece, a lot of thought to find the chemistry between the design, manufacture and the work required,” says Benjamin Muller, owner of M. Benjamin. “The complexity of maintaining an implementation of the elements while maintaining a solid architecture so as not to weaken the building. Openwork skeletonization involves elements of the movement of plates, bridges -- but the game is to keep enough material so that these elements can be reliably assembled and durable.”

Just about any movement can be skeletonized, but to be supremely beautiful, a movement should be designed to become a skeleton.

“A lot of watches can be skeletonized, but if you really want to have a result, you need to design it specially for the skeletonization,” acknowledges Hautlence’s Tetu. “As skeletonization can weaken the movement, you need to respect mechanical rules, and you need to leave enough material.”

Scarily Popular

Skeleton watches are becoming ever more popular, as customers really want to see their mechanical movements on display. “Skeleton watches continue to be a novelty for our brand based on their unique aesthetic and the length of time it takes to produce a single timepiece,” says Patek’s Pettinelli. “The production remains incredibly limited.”

There’s definitely something special about having a skeleton watch on your wrist. It doesn’t just give the time, it offers a little bit of “watch joy” whenever you glance at your list. In fact, watch lovers can get lost in the beautiful movements on display.

“For mechanical watch aficionados, skeleton watches are a delight and very popular, but lovers of design are more and more attracted to the exceptional design of skeletonized watches,” explains Zenith’s Dufour. “We can count all our skeletonized watches amongst our Top 10 bestsellers like the El Primero Chronomaster collection, the El Primero Tourbillon collection and also the Academy Christophe Colomb collection.”

If you don’t have a skeleton in your collection, now might be the time with all the great options on the market. If you do own a skeleton watch, wear it and enjoy it!

Market News

Experts foresee job growth in UAE next year

A recent report says that Saudi Arabia is expected to generate the maximum number of jobs in the region in 2012. According to some experts, Saudi will be joined by countries like Qatar and the UAE in pushing up the market. “Saudi Arabia, followed by Qatar will be at the forefront of job creations taking recent employment trends into account,” said Hasnain Qazi, Middle East Business Manager at Huxley Associates. “KSA, Qatar and the UAE seem to be the countries with the highest expected growth, which of course will influence the job market positively. In this, one should take into consideration the increased emphasis on nationalization programmes, that give a priority to nationals for several positions, especially in the governmental and semi-governmental sectors (which seem to be leading the way for growth at this period),” explained Konstantina Sakellariou, Partner, Marketing & Operations Director at Stanton Chase.

Fine Writing Brings Luxury and Leaders Together at the G20-G8 Summit

On November 3 and 4, Waterman and Parker in France have sponsored the 2011 G20-G8 Summit in Cannes, France. During the annual event, the top 20 nations in the world met to discuss economics and work in financial cooperation. The invitation reflects the brands’ dedication to driving consumer awareness and maintaining a long term relationship with the French community, and offered them the chance to reinforce relationships at the highest level of government, while gaining invaluable international visibility. The more than six thousand attendees, including journalists, ambassadors, ministers and administrators, received Waterman and Parker pens, which allowed them to experience the brands’ renowned craftsmanship and design.

Company News

Vertu unveils its latest smartphone, Constellation in Beirut

Vertu, the market leader in luxury mobile phones, has unveiled its latest smartphone, Constellation. Created to seamlessly complement and enhance a discerning lifestyle, the Constellation touchscreen model strikes the perfect balance between an unparalleled art of craftsmanship and modern technology offering an unrivalled range of category leading exclusive services. Vertu prides itself on being a pioneer of delivering relevant, tailored luxury information and services direct to a mobile handset through Vertu Concierge and continue to expand this proposition to deliver an unparalleled customer service. With global experts based in city hubs around the world, Vertu Concierge provides dedicated and independent lifestyle assistance, 24 hours a day, worldwide, in eight widely spoken languages.

Hublot pays tribute to Brazilian famous architect Oscar Niemeyer

As Timekeeper of the forthcoming 2014 FIFA World Cup Brazil™, Hublot is starting its countdown to the event by celebrating the country's capital, Brasilia, and paying tribute to its creator, Oscar Niemeyer. Architect of the futuristic city, symbol of modern Brazil, one of his country's most celebrated figures and recognized as one of the most well-known architects of the 20th century, Oscar Niemeyer has agreed, quite exceptionally, to work with Hublot. In his honor, and to celebrate his 104th birthday at the end of 2011, a special series named "Aero Bang Niemeyer" will be created, limited to just 104 pieces. At a private reception on 29th November 2011 at Mr. Niemeyer's residence in Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Rick Delacroix, President of Hublot Latin America, will have the honor of presenting him with the watch that bears his name, with the number 104/104.

Girard-Perregaux supports Andrea Bocelli Foundation

Girard-Perregaux is proud to partner up with Andrea Bocelli, the world’s highest selling solo artist in the history of classical music, in the launch of his new foundation, the Andrea Bocelli Foundation, with a 2011 Benefit Gala on December 9^th. The foundation will be launched at a fundraising event produced by Studiomusica and Jo Champa presented by the Grammy Museum Foundation and will be held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel in Los Angeles and will seek to raise funds and awareness for its efforts to fight poverty around the world and to help people overcome barriers caused by illness, discomfort or disability. The Gala will feature a dinner and performances by Andrea Bocelli himself as well as David Foster, Heather Headley and Anna Maria Martinez.

Richard Mille extends the warranty on all RM watches from 3 to 5 years

Following the unique personalized service provided on the internet site which allows each Richard Mille owner a privileged and permanent contact with the brand, Richard Mille now includes a 5 year warranty on all his watches. Richard Mille’s strategy is based on producing no more than 2500 watches a year. This policy enables him to accompany his clients and dedicate all the attention they deserve from a high end luxury watch brand. With this in mind and confident in the level of quality associated with his watches, Richard Mille has therefore decided to extend his warranty to 5 years. This extended warranty will be applied as soon as the watch has been serviced before the end of its 3rd year by an official Richard Mille agent.

GRAHAM announces new brand Ambassador

GRAHAM is proud to welcome Giles Kristian as its new brand ambassador. Prolific, generous and fearless, Giles Kristian is the brilliant author of one of the most epic trilogies: RAVEN. Described by Random House as ‘one of the most exciting authors of our generation’, Giles Kristian burst onto the literary scene in 2009 with his debut novel, Raven Blood Eye. This action packed story about a young man’s coming of age amongst a band of Viking warriors was published to critical acclaim and became a bestseller. Living in a world of adventures and courage, Giles was naturally attracted by GRAHAM timepieces. According to him, they bear the same conviction and strength as his characters. GRAHAM is undoubtedly at the heart of action.

Montegrappa at the Abu Dhabi Chequered Flag Ball

On 11 November, the star-studded Chequered Flag Ball returned to Abu Dhabi as celebrity guests and the great and good of Abu Dhabi society kicked off a weekend of glitz, glamour and Formula 1. Montegrappa was this year's Platinum Sponsor, and the evening was attended by the Montegrappa Middle East team, Montegrappa CEO, Giuseppe Aquila, who flew in specially for the occasion, and Abdullah Al Sayegh, from Al Sayegh Jewellery, Montegrappa's retail partner for Abu Dhabi. Although this took place on the special date, the 11^th of the 11^th of 2011, the UAE has a bigger date looming, the 2^nd of December 2011, when the country celebrated its 40^th Anniversary since unification of the 7 Emirates in 1971. Therefore, this special occasion was marked by the first public unveiling of Montegrappa's UAE National Day pen, a Limited Edition pen celebrating the 40^th year anniversary of the unification of the UAE.

Glam Rock features on USA TV Show

The Price Is Right, USA TV Show which has 2.5 million viewers, show cased Glam Rock Watches which aired on October 12th and October 18th (Sobe and Miami Collection). On both dates Glam Rock received a 10/15 second of description, logo and product presence on the show.

MB&F Geneva 2012

In addition to the complete MB&F Collection including the new Legacy Machine and HM4 Limited editions this year, MB&F will be presenting its just-opened brand concept store: The MB&F M.A.D. Gallery from January 14 till 20, 2012. Visitors can either come directly to the Gallery or to the Hotel de la Paix where MB&F will provide a shuttle service to the Gallery.

Product Launch

Piaget presents the Dragon & Phoenix Collection

By associating its 40 professions, Piaget is creating a unique watch collection representing a pinnacle achievement in its ongoing quest for excellence. Piaget has successfully married its numerous skills in crafting a stunning collection encompassing more than 20 models, magnificently reinterpreting the imaginary world of Chinese imperial symbols and forming a collection more that ever destined to inspire and nurture dreams. In honor of the Year of the Dragon and the rich gifts to the world represented by Chinese thought and culture, Piaget proudly presents the exceptional Dragon and Phoenix watch collection.

A. Lange & Sohne's 2011 SAXONIA Watch Family

This year, A. Lange & Sohne redefined the SAXONIA. The four new members of the elegant timepiece family share an expressive face and inimitable charisma. With their timeless design and compelling inner virtues, the SAXONIA AUTOMATIC, SAXONIA, SAXONIA THIN, and SAXONIA DUAL TIME reflect the traditions of Saxon watchmaking artistry and craftsmanship. The argente-hued, solid-silver dial is framed by a gently chamfered bezel that showcases slender baton hour markers, solid-gold lancet hands, and a minute scale reduced to the bare essence. The finesse of the perfectly finished self-winding movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback of the watch. The four new SAXONIA models clearly pay tribute to Saxony’s heritage in craftsmanship and precision horology.

Patek Philippe launches its digital campaign

Subsequent to the successful launch of the institutional print advertising campaign, Patek Philippe extends its institutional communication strategy into digital media. The institutional print campaign runs alongside the world-renowned corporate “Generations” product campaign and reinforces the Patek Philippe core brand values: family heritage, highest level of craftsmanship, and constant innovation. The first chapter of the digital campaign and the microsite will start with the “Acoustics” theme and use the headline from the current print campaign: “Of course, the acoustics of all minute repeaters have to be tested. In our family-owned watch company, the President does it.”

Parmigiani introduces the new Tonda Annual Calendar

Parmigiani has introduced the new Tonda collection with its timeless round shape (diameter 40 mm, thickness 11.2 mm). The development of this new complication is based on the brands PF 331 automatic movement, with the incorporation of a new additional Parmigiani module, creating the PF 339 Annual Calendar. Manufactured in Fleurier, in the Parmigiani Fleurier dial production unit, the face of the Tonda Annual Calendar can be either silver or charcoal grey and features a delicate grained decoration or a barley grain in the centre and a black or silvered opaline ring. The case is available in rose gold or white gold and is also manufactured at Parmigiani . This new exceptional timepiece is then finished with a Hermes alligator strap.

Exhibitions & Events

The 22nd Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH)

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), a foremost event for watches and watchmaking now in its 22nd year, will be held from January 16th to 20th, 2012 in Palexpo, Geneva. Year after year, some 12,000 retailers, journalists and brand representatives travel to this exclusive, invitation-only event for a unique opportunity to view the latest timepieces by the eighteen exhibitors for which the SIHH is a showcase for artistry and expertise, daring and innovation. Once again, the SIHH will transform 30,000 square metres at Palexpo, Geneva into a welcoming, business-focused venue where exhibitors can confirm their creativity and identity.

5th edition of IIJS Signature

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) has organized the 5th edition of IIJS Signature, 2012 to be scheduled from January 6th-9th, 2012, at NSE Grounds, Goregaon, Mumbai. IIJS Signature 2012 will see many exciting new features. As before, this is a show that focuses on the sourcing requirements of retailers. The products on display are of the finest quality and contemporary design, housed in well-defined segmented sections for precious jewellery and loose diamonds & colored gemstones - a veritable treasure chest for retailers from across the country and overseas. Also, an International Pavilion - for leading overseas manufacturers of loose stones and precious jewellery will be constructed in the venue.

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