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Case Design Can Make all the Difference By Keith W. Strandberg
Lovers of fine timepieces all too often focus on the movements with all their complexity, complications and finishing, but we all need to be reminded not to discount the importance of case design.
The case, after all, keeps it all together and, with the dial, is the first thing we, and admirers of our watches, see. Depending on the model, the case can be almost as complex as the movement inside.
Getting A-Round the Case
It’s true that about 90% of all watches are round.
What isn’t true, however, is that all round watch cases are the same, and some of the most interesting watches and cases are decidedly NOT round.
“Round is the most traditional shape -- it is timeless and goes through all generations,” acknowledges Olivier Romang, TAG Heuer Brand Manager. “It is interesting to note that most smartwatches launched recently are square – which underscores the influence of smartphones on the design. The design of a case is very important, as it will be one of the most recognizable part when it is worn on a wrist. The case is made of two major elements: the case and the bezel. Very often, the latter brings the ‘signature’ of a brand on top of the case.”
Hautlence is known for its iconic TV screen shape, which is a function of the display. “For Hautlence, the shape is the result of our display mechanisms, so it's interesting to work first on the idea, and then design the shape around the movement,” says Guillaume Tetu, co-founder of Hautlence. “The case is the first thing you will see on the wrist, even under your shirt, you can feel the strength of an iconic design with its details, and it's important for us to have a different style than everyone.”
Hamilton has a history of doing different kinds of case shapes, with great impact. “Hamilton is a watch company with a culture of very special case designs,” says Sylvain Dolla, president, Hamilton Worldwide. “The most iconic case would be the Ventura, with its triangle shape. When working with costume designers in Hollywood, they always look for interesting watches, which add character to a role and can also complete a whole costume. A great example is the Ventura in ‘Men in Black,’ where the watch melts with the uniform of Will Smith and Co. A special case shape also has a big impact on the presentation in the store, while being placed on a display it attracts the attention of the customer. »
Case shapes and design:
Coming up with an interesting case can really put a brand on the map. Look at the iconic shapes of the Hamilton Ventura, the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet, the Santos from Cartier and others.
“The case is an important way to differentiate ourselves, design wise,” says Bruno Grande, Managing Director and GM Private Label, Jean Richard. “We hope our new watches will become iconic and an expression of our extremely high quality. The case is also an expression of the style and personality of the owner.
“Our cases are very complex, but what is complex on one side means flexibility on the other, and we wanted a maximum flexibility so as to integrate and exchange several materials in our case providing a unique combination of colors and materials,” Grande contineus. “The finishing of each piece of the case is possible and this is also an indication of high quality products.”
Artya has come up with some interesting case shapes in recent years, most specifically the Son of Sound, which is a guitar-shaped case.
“Today many people don't want to look like another sheep in the crowd,” says Yvan Arpa, founder and owner of Artya. “So, we thought it was time to start setting trends rather than following them. To talk to this segment of the watch consumers it is important to be able to propose some cases that will stand out from the crowd. New brands need to propose some alternatives to what exists in the market -- it is vital to work not only on movements but as well on inventing new shape of cases. For Artya, the guitar shaped Son of Sound needed three years of development, but really stands out and has become an iconic watch with a shape and a wonderful look never done before in this industry.”
The Future of Case Design
Cases continue to get more complicated, with interesting design details. “With so many different watch brands available, we need to make sure each product looks distinctive,” says Edouard Meylan, CEO, H. Moser. “This has forced designers to be more creative and lead to more parts in a case. Also, ensuring shock and water resistance of the movements is not an easy task and requires many more specialized parts.”
As round is the most recognized case shape, don’t expect consumer tastes to swing away from round anytime soon, but that won’t stop companies like Carl F. Bucherer from pursuing other case shapes.
“Without doubt, it is very important for every company to differ from the competition,” says Sascha Moeri, president, Carl F. Bucherer. “But there are many ways to stand out from the crowd: quality, a long heritage, outstanding skills. Hence, a different case shape is not compulsory, but of course, it attracts attention. The interesting tonneau shape of the Patravi T-Graph for example is borrowed from the traditional art of watchmaking, and consciously creates an idiosyncratic counterpoint to its modern dial design. The models of the Alacria line also amaze by their extraordinary shape: With its filigree, rectangular form and its concave case the Alacria is a perfect tribute to feminine grace and beauty. And if you take a look at our new vanguard ladies collection Pathos, you will see that even a round shape can be designed in a very interesting way.
“We will not stop continuously striving after new, surprising developments that are groundbreaking for the watch industry,” he continues. “Our long heritage is an amazing base for new developments, because the sophisticated combination of tradition and future trends is indispensable to develop new impressive products. For example the Pathos collection reflects our long experience in the creation of outstanding ladies´ timepieces, but does also have a completely new design approach. The extraordinary case with its filigree garland is an innovative design concept that impressively reflects the multifarious feminine character. We are planning to continue with our progressive approach – as our claim says ‘Bound to tradition – driven by innovation.’
So, next time you see a watch that you like, have a close look at the case.