Exclusive Interview with Guillaume-Alexandre Marx, Managing Director of Parmigiani Fleurier Distribution Middle East:
We Have Room to Reach 15% of Global Sales by the End of 2015
What are your brand’s “star” novelties for the SIHH 2015?
A Squelette edition of one of our best sellers, the PF Tonda 1950, available for ladies and gentlemen, which reveals the incredibly complex mechanism and features of this extra-thin model. Each bridge and main plate of the PF705 calibre movement has been openworked with extremely delicate internal angles. This work is carried out entirely by hand, showcasing the accomplished craftsmanship and keen eye for detail which are a key part of Parmigiani Fleurier's philosophy. Revealed in all its glory, the skeleton movement of the Tonda 1950 compliments the purity of the extra-thin model, showing its allegiance to a watchmaking tradition where simple lines are used to create timeless beauty.
What kind of impact does SIHH have on a premium brand such as yours in the Middle East?
SIHH remains one of the key periods of the year for us, internally, to get the latest briefings and informations from our HQ, but mostly externally, as it is a wonderful opportunity to catch up with our clients, partners and media contacts. Since PFD JLT covers a huge zone, namely Middle East, India and Africa, SIHH allows us to see all our key contacts for sales, marketing and business development in a mere 4 days. On a strategic level, SIHH sets the tone for the year to come – what novelties, expertise, partnership will be put at the forefront of our messaging that year.
What are your expectations at SIHH 2015?
Promoting what we have done in Dubai in 2014 – creating a subsidiary, opening a showroom and office, establishing a stronger brand presence in the UAE through marketing and communication activities – as a way to better support our existing clients, recruit more retail partners, expand our activities geographically and be more efficient in our branding and communication efforts.
What are the foreseen trends and directions with watches in 2015?
A focus on the know-how, the expertise, the unique craftsmanship that each timepiece encapsulates. Squelette or extra-thin movements, revealed, enhanced, magnified, for all to see and appreciate.
Any particular trend(s) that your brand is keen on in terms of movement and or designs?
In our case, a strong reference to our background in restoration, and how this unique know-how influences our product development. An expertise in restoration, coupled with the complete independence we enjoy at a corporate level, and a completely verticalized manufacture, means we are entirely free to explore new ways to watchmaking, new proportions, new and unseen before designs. This theme runs through our collection, haute horlogerie and pieces of exception lines, where beautiful timepieces of the past inspire a new generation of watches, all strongly driven by innovation and creativity.
When would we expect the SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East?
From May 2015 onwards
What are your priorities for 2015?
Consolidating our brand presence and activities in the Middle East, after we launched our fully-owned subsidiary in 2014& expanding to India as well as opening new POS and developing the existing POS.
What is the percentage of the women watches introduced compared to the masculine watches introduced? Are there any plans to change the current equation?
Our collection fully caters to ladies and gentlemen, with most of our models available for both ladies and gents. Our ladies watches sales reach 30% of overall sales.
How is your brand faring in the Middle East?
The Middle East represents roughly 10% of our global sales. There is still a lot of potential for us to develop, and now that our subsidiary is established in Dubai, we are looking forward to take full advantage of our presence on site to work on more boutiques, brand awareness and business development.
Do you propose to open more independent boutiques in the Middle East?
We are always working through our retailers in the region. Now, when it comes to mono-brand stores, we already have one in Dubai. At this stage, the main objective would be to improve this store, possibly change its location, rather than open more. Having said this, we are focused on opening several new retail corners in 2015 with our partners – including two with Mohammed Rasool Khoory in Abu Dhabi (Emirates Palace and Yas Mall).
What are the markets that you plan to focus on in the region to achieve your brands potential?
UAE remains our main focus, but we are also strong in Qatar and looking into developing our presence in Saudi Arabia and Kuwait.
Did your export figures increase in the Middle East for 2014?
If you are asking about Exports from Switzerland to the Middle East, yes, but we still have room to grow with an objective to reach 15% of global sales by the end of 2015.
NOVELTIES:
The First Naissance d'une Montre Prototype, A Concept By Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour &Michel Boulanger
The First Naissance d'une Montre Prototype, A Concept By Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour &Michel BoulangerThe First Naissance d'une Montre Prototype, A Concept By Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour &Michel BoulangerThe First Naissance d'une Montre Prototype, A Concept By Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour &Michel BoulangerThe dial of the “Naissance d'une Montre” reads co-signature "Greubel Forsey" and "Philippe Dufour," The un-hand-finished form is the first prototype of shown at SIHH 2015. The components are made entirely by hand-operated machines, only 11 watches will be made.
Greubel Forsey embarked on a project to teach one relatively young (and talented) watchmaker the skills necessary to construct a watch entirely by hand. They developed a program called Le Garde Temps, Naissance d'une Montre, and selected Paris-based master watchmaker Michel Boulanger to participate in the program. To ensure that things were done right, they brought in one of the most legendary watchmakers still working today, Philippe Dufour, to work with Michel, advising on hand-craft methods and techniques.
The New A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual
The new 2015 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph version comes in a 41mm wide 18k white gold case and matte gray dial. Inside the watch is the in-house made in Glashutte, Germany A. Lange & Söhne caliber L952.1 manually wound movement of total 556 hand-finished parts. Despite the low frequency, the movement only has a total of 36 hours of power reserve. The power reserve indicator is located above the left subdial - which is also used for the running seconds and the day of the week. The big date indicator is at the right subdial, tracks the minutes counter for the flyback chronograph, month, as well as an overlapping leap year indicator. Where the power reserve indicator sat on the Datograph Up/Down, A. Lange & Söhne has now placed a moon phase indicator.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande
Roger Dubuis has already revealed its unique Excalibur Brocéliande inspired by the famous legend of King Arthur, filled with fairytale romance epitomised in the mysterious forest of Brocélia. This enticingly eye-catching creation is issued in a 28-piece limited edition, with an ~3.44 carats of precious gems per piece. The flamboyant red strap complements a pink gold case with gem-set bezel, lugs and flange frames. The ivy foliage is comprised of semi-precious stones in autumnal colours, dotted along slender gold wire ivy branches delicately set with diamonds. The piece is further enhanced by the slimmer bezel and flange set with a double rank of brilliant cut diamonds, while a rose-cut diamond set on the crown makes for the finishing touch.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Episode 1
Engineered within Audemars Piguet’s acoustic research lab, this new Royal Oak Concept Episode 1 is the first chiming watch so acoustically considered as to become a sound concept in its own right. It has been sonically developed through an ongoing acoustic study programme in collaboration with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne) and it took three years to transfer that technological study into a watch concept. For the first time in the history of chiming wristwatches, this timepiece isn’t a minute repeater simply meant for the confidential use of its wearer. Instead, its unique sound becomes a powerful experience to be shared.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Gravées 14-Day Tourbillion
Vacheron Constantin enriches its Métiers d'Art collection with two new timepieces equipped with entirely hand-engraved movements. At the heart of a platinum case, calibers 2260/1 and 4400/1 are adorned with acanthus leaves, an inexhaustible source of inspiration since Antiquity. The Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Gravées 14-day tourbillion is developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin. The watch is equipped with a mechanical manual-winding tourbillon movement calibre 2260/1, with approximately 336-hour (14-day) power reserve. The plates and bridges of the watch are hand-engraved with “acanthus leaf” floral motifs using line-engraving and champlevé techniques. The back of the model reveals acanthus leaves engraved to a depth of 2/10ths of a millimetre.
The new Master Calendar of Jaeger-LeCoultre
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre new Master Calendar model displays the perpetual calendar by means of a long hand tipped with a red moon crescent sweeping around a scale around the dial rim graduated from 1 to 31. It also indicates the day of the week and the month in twin apertures at 12 o’clock.With a 39 mm-diameter, this10.6 mm-thick case is designed to adapt to the curve of any wrist. Its subtle discretion could easily make one forget the considerable efforts deployed by the master artisans in fitting an automatic movement with a full calendar inside such a pleasantly sized case. This concern for detail runs all the way to the very heart of the watch. The sapphire crystal case-back of the Master Calendar reveals the intricate workings of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 866 and its delicate finishes testifying to infinite patience.
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Greubel Forsey presented the new Tourbillon 24 Secondes in a case that is as slender as possible and yet able to accommodate the unique inclined tourbillon cage. By incorporating a dome into the sapphire crystal on the back of the timepiece, enough extra volume is created to allow the tourbillon cage to overlap the reference surface of the movement bridges. The dome is a new and intriguing element that draws attention to the lower tourbillon bridge.Completing the exceptional standard of decoration that applies to all 288 parts in the movement, the unique composition of colours and finishes creates a spectacular visual dynamic, with pride of place given to the sectorial 72-hour chronometric power-reserve indicator.Particular care has been given to the design of the hand-finished blued-steel hands, which immediately and precisely indicate the time. They have been lightened to the maximum degree and their form, in the shape of a lance, leads the eye straight to the indexes that are first engraved and then "oven-fired" enamelled into the solid gold dial.
The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph
Ralph Lauren introduces the Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph. Inspired by the instrument panel of Ralph Lauren’s legendary 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, the Automotive Chronograph represents the height of legibility and beauty. Ralph Lauren has partnered with Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. The movement, self-winding caliber RL751A/1, runs in 39 jewels, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offers a 65-hour power reserve. The Côtes de Genève and perlage movement finishing is a special decoration exclusive to Ralph Lauren.