Volume of worldwide sales orders reinforces health of flourishing fine watches sector
Introduction & Logistics:
The six-day 18th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) which kicked-off on Monday, 7 April concluded in Geneva on Saturday, 12 April 2008 on an extremely successful note with healthy increment in visitor numbers, media attendance and size of order books reminiscent of a vibrant watch and jewellery industry.
The 16 participating brands reported satisfactory sales deals at the private, exclusive, by-invitation only event, was well above the 2007 levels and even surpassing expectations for 2008. SIHH 2008 welcomed close to 14,000 visitors from around the world, registering an 8 % increase over corresponding SIHH 2007 statistics.
Extending over 24,000 sq. m., this ‘Cite de la Haute Horlogerie’ (City of Fine Watches) showcased current collections and new models, a tribute to the creativity and ingenuity of the master designers, watchmakers and jewellers.
The central theme for SIHH 2008 was ‘Fine Watchmaking Celebrates Sport’, the 14th in the continuing series. It was staged by Dominique Flechon, fine watch historian (& Director of Research & Study Centre of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie-FIHH), also drew more visitors than before. Designed and staged by the Foundation’s cultural wing, it trained the spotlight on the shared philosophy of fine watches and sport by emphasizing the fundamental values of precision, elegance and perfection, which have always dominated world-class sport globally.
In a break with tradition which has conventionally seen SIHH held concomitantly with Baselworld, SIHH 2009 will be held from 19 to 24 January.
Media Coverage:
A high level of media exposure was ensured with the presence, according to the organizers, of 1,450 especially invited media representatives, including MPParabia. The figure was up 10 % over the 2007 media representation number.
Highlights of newest, individual-brand collections: (listed in alphabetical order)
A. Lange & Sohne
A. Lange & Sohne has rewritten a new chapter in the history of the ‘whirlwind’ (tourbillon) with the new ‘Cabaret Tourbillon’ and the first stop-seconds feature ever implemented in a tourbillon calibre. The new ‘Cabaret Tourbillon’, a perfection of the model first unveiled in 1997, is reminiscent of the luxury and charisma of the Art Deco epoch. The collection now debuts with the balance in a rotating carriage. It has a power reserve of 5 days (120 hours) when fully wound.
Also on display was the re-designed Grand Lange 1, which is available in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum with matching monochrome solid-silver dials in champagne, argente and rhodie.
Alfred Dunhill
The British entry to SIHH 2008 displayed the latest in their fine writing instruments collections. These included the Sentryman Swarovski Black Diamond, Bull Dog and Flying Scotsman models. The limited-edition Sentry Swarovski, with its 18-carat gold nib and iridium tip, is a blend of luxury, style and innovation and its production is restricted to 250 units. The Bull Dog, also limited to 350 pieces, has a sterling silver top (collar) and a pawed cap clip. The Flying Scotsman, also limited to 250 units, is a tribute to the famous steam locomotive in the world.
Audemars Piguet
Master watchmaker Audemars Piguet made an impact with the Royal Oak collection, which was highlighted by the Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon & Chronograph, the Royal Oak Offshore Jewellery Collection, & the Ladies’ Royal Oak Offshore Ladycat Chronograph in pink gold. The Millenary series included the Black & White Ladies’ Watch collection; the Montre Millenary Pianoforte Watch & the Jules Audemars 30th Anniversary Perpetual Calendar.
Baume & Mercier
The ‘ilea’ Collection from Baume & Mercier was the brand’s star attraction. The round, 30 mm, polished & satin-finished steel case of the ‘ilea’ has the bezel sculpted at the 6.00 and 12.00 o’clock positions and set with full-cut, Top Wesselton, VS quality diamonds. Furthermore, the dial is mother-of-pearl set with 8 diamonds with ‘curve’ décor, silvered flange with oval opening, Arabic numerals in rhodium-plated appliqué and Dauphine-style rhodium-plated hands. The watch with triple-folding buckle is water-resistant to 30 metres.
Cartier
The big news coming out of Cartier was the conferring on the brand of the much-sought-after Geneva Seal, enacted into law in 1886 and one of the oldest professional labels. This puts the House of Cartier squarely into a select club of elitist watch manufacturers who are certified to display the prestigious Geneva seal. The Cartier 9452 MC Calibre, an exceptional flying tourbillon, was the recipient of the Geneva Seal.
Cartier’s repertoire at SIHH 2008 included the Ballon Bleu De Cartier Flying Tourbillon, the Le Cirque Animalier De Cartier, The Cartier Libre, Roadster, Pasha Seatimer and Santos De Cartier collections.
Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux (GP) held a Press Conference to announce and unveil the revolutionary, patented ‘Constant Force Escapement’, a new breakthrough in the field of chronometry. It has unprecedented precision, exceptional design, constant amplitude and rate and completely new architecture produced using new technologies. This novel innovation will be incorporated in future GP models.
The Girard-Perregaux Bi-axial Tourbillon is described as ‘a spectacular watch making phenomenon. Fitted with rare mechanisms and sophisticated designs. This modernism is the culmination of a quest stretching over 140 years for precision in time measurement.
Girard-Perregaux also presented the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante, a remarkable tribute to the Manufacture’s heritage. GP has also revived the 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the 1945 off-centred hour and minute, WW TC 24 Hour Shopping and the Sea Hawk Pro 1000 metres.
IWC
Six legends celebrated 140 years of IWC Schaffhausen. These titans included the Pilot’s Watch Hand-Wound, the Portuguese Hand-Wound, the Ingenieur Automatic, Aquatimer Automatic, Da Vinci Automatic and the Portofino Hand-Wound. All six watches are available in unlimited numbers in stainless steel with a black dial, and in limited numbers in platinum with a silver-plated dial. Each one of them essentially embodies the founding legends of the manufacturer’s current watch families.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2’, possessing the extraordinary complexity of the spherical tourbillon, was the subject of scrutiny. This second version of the Gyrotourbillon is distinguished by an essential organ—the presence of a cylinder-shaped balance-spring with end curves. Other notables included the Reverso Squadra World Chronograph Polo Fields; Reverso Squadra Lady; Master Ultra Thin; AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT, Atmos and the Memovox Tribute to Polaris.
JeanRichard
JeanRichard, part of the Sowind Group owned by Luigi Macaluso, has focused on the Chronoscope Brutale Collection. Dedicated to the MV Agusta Motorcycles, a legendary name in the motor-cycling world, this daring collection is synonymous with extreme virility & power. The new generously 43 mm X 43 mm sized case is clothed in highly resistant rubber that gives the watch a lighter touch. This model is produced in limited editions of 290 in rubber and pink gold and 1078 in rubber and titanium.
Other introductions include the Bressel Lady, Paramount Time Square and 2-Time Zone.
Montblanc
Following its debut in the watch sector a decade ago, Montblanc has shifted its centre of gravity away from fine writing pens towards an emphasis in the production of premium watches. To this end, Montblanc celebrated the world premiere of its first own watch movement, the Montblanc Calibre MB R100, produced at its factory in the Swiss town of Le Locle nestled in the Jura mountains, the cradle of Swiss watch-making.
This movement has been used to power the limited collectors edition ‘Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph’, inspired by the technology of ‘time writer’ Nicolas Rieussec. A further sparkling masterpiece is added to the collection of Montblanc ladies watches with the ‘Profile Lady Elegance Diamonds’.
Other additional introductions for men included the 18-carat red gold ‘Star 4810 Automatic’, the avant-garde ‘TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic’ and ‘Sport Chronograph Tantalum Automatic’. Extra models targeted for the fairer gender included the ‘Star Lady Gold Moonphase Automatic’ and the large ‘Sport White Gold Lady Jewels’.
Panerai / Ferrari
Officine Panerai’s displays included the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT 47 MM Titanium, a mechanical watch with a high degree of accuracy and one which combines tradition, sports qualities and exclusivity. Others in the inventory included the Luminor Chrono Monopulsante in Titanium, the Luminor Chronograph 40 mm PAM310, the Luminor GMT 44 MM and the Radiomir Titanium 47 MM.
The Panerai-Ferrari partnership comes into harmonious convergence with the Ferrari collection engineered by Officine Panerai. The Ferrari 8 Days Chrono Monopulsante GMT 45 MM, the Ferrari 10 Days GMT 45 MM, the Ferrari 1/8TH Second 45 MM and Ferrari Chronograph Pink Gold 45 MM are masterpieces that combine the engineering expertise with great watch-making traditions.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier’s flagship Kalpa Collection for stole the limelight. These men and ladies models with their harmoniously curved and ideally proportioned profile, made a perfect match between its contoured lines and the wrist. The Kalpa collection allows particular scope for creativity in terms of dial colour and styles. Other collections presented included the Toric, Bugatti, Pershing and Tecnica collections.
Piaget
Piaget continued to impress with its Limelight Paris—New York Collection which explores the aesthetic worlds of two of the most fascinating cities on the planet. Among the dazzling and daring watch creations released in this series are two Piaget Polo Tourbillon Relatif models issued in very limited editions of three. They combine the complexity of a Piaget 608P Flying Tourbillon Movement with the sophistication of a beautifully enameled and chaste décor.
Other notable Piaget releases included the 40 mm Altiplano Squelette and the Piaget Emperador Coussin Perpetual Calendar models.
Roger Dubuis
The KINGSQUARE from Roger Dubuis, is the royal newcomer to the brand range and the brainchild of Founder & CEO Carlos Dias. The analogy drawn is of the KINGSQUARE being to the brand what the ‘sports performance division’ is to an automobile manufacturer. The case of this timepiece, offered in 44 mm men’s model and 36 mm ladies version, is composed of parts crafted from noble or resolutely technical materials comprising gold, titanium, rubber and sapphire crystal, in which various colours harmoniously combine to offer a wide and subtle array of identifying features. The watch is also available in a mechanical hand-wound flying Tourbillon movement, flying Skeleton Tourbillon, ladies, jewellery and Haute Horlogerie versions.
Additionally, the brand also showcased the Excalibur, its tenth collection and the Grand Classic ‘Skeleton’ Movement.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin’s ‘Quai de l’Ile’ line, named after the 250-year old brand’s historic Geneva address, brings a new dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. The new collection will be available with two models: the ‘Quai de l’Ile’ Date Self-winding and the ‘Quai de l’Ile’ day-Date, self-winding and power reserve. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. These state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the semi-transparent dials. Each ‘Quai de l’Ile’ model is delivered in two straps—alligator leather and vulcanized rubber with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese Cross-flap.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Charms, Lady Arpel’s Papillon. Fleurette and Lady Arpel’s Fairy Collections took centre stage at SIHH 2008. The Charms timepiece draws its name from the Alhambra lucky charm, pave set with diamonds—turning bezel around dial with sun pattern guilloche effect and adorned with 1.18-carat VVS diamonds in white gold case. The Lady Arpels Papillon Collection has a white mother-of-pearl marquetry dial and a butterfly set with VVS diamonds in a 36 mm yellow gold case.
The Fleurette Collection has a white natural mother-of-pearl dial with 2.72 carats VVS diamonds in a white gold case. The Lady Arpels Fairy Collection features an animated fairy and a retrograde mechanical movement. The model is set in white gold with 3.0 carats VVS Diamonds and a blue enamel guilloche dial.