Third Live Report from Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneve

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21-Jan-2015

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Exclusive Interview with Daniel Riedo, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre: Every Client Can Find the Watch meeting his Expectations 

What are Jaeger-LeCoultre “star” novelties scheduled to be launched during the fair?

For SIHH 2015 we will focus on the movements of the heavenly bodies and the origins of time as we know it today. We want to highlight the expertise that Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed in calendar complications since the late 19th century while reinterpreted them.
A new Duomètre will pay tribute to astronomy: The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon.  Through the use of the Dual-Wing®concept, the watch provides a 3 887 years accurate moon phase combined with a multi-axis tourbillon.
A new Master Calendar - one version in steel, one version in pink gold - will also pay tribute to astronomy. For the dial of this new watch, we used the meteorite stone to shake up the traditionally pure, understated aesthetic of the Master Calendar. The complete calendar indicates the various moon phases.
We will also present an astral inspired Rendez-Vous which will crystallize the encounter between fine watchmaking and fine Jewellery. This glamourous piece will feature a stunning moon-phase destined to remain accurate for 972 years.

What are your expectations?

Enthusiasm from our clients and our followers is the greatest rewards for our teams who have put their heart and passion in this program.

What are the foreseen trends and directions with watches in 2015? Are there any particular trends that your brand is particular keen on in terms of movement or designs?

Jaeger-LeCoultre noted the growing interest of fine watchmaking among women and launched the new Rendez-Vous collection for ladies three years ago. The success of the collection continues to be seen all around the world as women are becoming experts in fine watchmaking movements and pieces with feminine designs. Starting this year, we will develop this collection and will introduce new design and movement features.

The Reverso would be going through radical transformations in 2016. What exactly are these ‘transformations’?

In 2016 the Reverso will celebrate its 85th anniversary. 2016 will be an evolution not a revolution but it will be full of Reverso surprises. I cannot tell you more about it now, but I have no doubt it will amaze the brand’s followers and many others…

When would we expect the SIHH novelties to be available at boutiques and POS in the Middle East?

Novelties should be available around end of summer 2015.

What are your priorities for 2015?

Excellence and invention are the principles on which our Manufacture has been built. Our priority in 2015 is to stay true to the spirit of our founders combining watchmaking mastery and sense of style.

After sale services have always been a challenge for companies and watch collectors too, please can you tell us more of what Jaeger-LeCoultre offers?

Our Maison puts a lot of care and work into the effective operation of our after-sales services. All Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces should be checked regularly. During this complete service the worn components will be replaced and the oils changed.

Our customers can also enjoy the change of the straps and the personalization of their watch as part of this periodical check.  For example a client can engraved the back of his Reverso to make his watch unique.

Does Jaeger-LeCoultre cope with the uprising competition in the region’s markets?

We offer a wide range of timepieces with an equally wide range of complexity in terms of watchmaking and design. This comes from the fact that we are a true manufacture: our watches are thought, design and made in one same place by people that we train to be masters in their field. To become a master you shall start with simple pieces to go up to the highest level of complexity. This is what we apply at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Therefore, even if there are different tastes for watches in each country, every client can find the watch meeting his expectations.

What are the biggest markets for Jaeger-LeCoultre today?

The strong establishment of the brand in Switzerland and France has allowed us to have a strong position in Europe. Our European footprint is driving our appeal throughout the world, notably in North Asia which has become or second biggest market.
The Middle East, Americas and South East Asia are places with large growth potential for our Maison, and we are on track to establish further Jaeger-LeCoultre in these markets.

How do you rate the Middle East as a potential market for Jaeger-LeCoultre?

Middle East is an essential market for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Our brand is renowned for its high Jewellery pieces combining high watchmaking with exceptional gem-setting, enameling and engraving. We have had a long and fruitful relationship with our clientele in Middle East on these exceptional pieces. We want to further strengthen this relationship in the future.

Are more Jaeger-LeCoultre mono-brand boutiques one of the focus points for the coming period?

The boutique remains that special place where people can get the full Jaeger-LeCoultre experience, and of course get access to high-end complications pieces and special boutique editions. We are excited to share with you some upcoming openings of flagship boutiques in New York, London and Geneva, three cities where we will welcome our Middle Eastern clientele.

For an established brand like Jaeger-LeCoultre, what is the biggest challenge?

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a 182 years old Manufacture, with a spirit of invention well alive. Every day we are thankful to our founders and the people after them who created this Maison. Our main challenge is to keep on building this place and to deliver this spirit of invention to our audience.

NOVELTIES:

Parmigiani Fleurier Presents Tonda 1950 Squelette

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tondo 1950 Squelette compliments the purity of the extra-thin model, showing its allegiance to a watchmaking tradition where simple lines are used to create timeless beauty. The platinum micro-rotor is now visible on the surface of the watch, rather than solely on the back of the movement. As a result, this new face has been decorated with a pattern formed of Parmigiani Fleurier’s iconic lugs, part of the brand’s DNA. Hinting at the spiral shape of the rotor, the motif emphasises the distinctive feeling of movement, which can be observed with each movement of the wrist. Contrary to all expectations, the Tonda 1950 Squelette does feature a dial, but it is made from sapphire, making it perfectly invisible.

Piaget Sets a New Record in the Ultra-Thin Field

In honour of the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Piaget presented a new ultra-thin hand-wound chronograph watch in its Altiplano collection. The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph watch sets a new record being the thinnest hand-wound flyback chronograph in the world. The new 883P movement and case thereby set a new double record for slimness, at just 4.65 mm for the hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, and a slender 8.24 mm for its precious case. The watch is also distinguished by its flyback function serving to reset the chronograph hands to zero simply by pressing them and then automatically restarting a new timing cycle. This finely crafted movement visible through the transparent case-back features the aesthetic refinement of finishes: circular Côtes de Genève, a circular-grained mainplate, bevelled bridges, sunburst wheels and blued screws.

Van Cleef & Arpels Carpe Koi Watch

Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a stunning unique Jeweled time piece designed to show the brand’s extraordinary mastery & technology. The Koi fish Koi is known as upstream perseverance temperament is a symbol of courage and strength.   The unique masterpiece is inlaid with 8,000 inlaid colored stones that took over 3450 hours of work. The Fish is inlaid with golden yellow corundum and garnet, creating progressive layers of gradient color, pleasing and charming. Blue and white diamond vortex ripples, people get a glimpse of the quiet deep underwater world. The entire dial is inlaid with gems hidden in the fish head, allowing the wearer to read the time in a charming way.

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 CarbotechTM

Panerai’s new Luminor Submersible 1950 CarbotechTM features a new carbon-based material that is incredibly light and scratch resistant. The case is made of carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre, never before used in the world of watchmaking. The carbotech has an uneven, matt black appearance, which varies according the cutting of the material. The technological heart of the Luminor Submersible 1950 CarbotechTM is the P.9000 automatic calibre, developed and made by the Officine Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. The movement, 13¾ lignes in diameter, has two spring barrels giving a power reserve of three days, and the oscillating weight rotates in both directions. To ensure accuracy when setting the time, the movement has the device which stops the balance wheel while the hour hand moves forward or backward in increments of one hour, without interfering with the progress of the minute hand.

Vacheron Constantine World's Thinnest Self-Winding Split-Seconds Chronograph

Coinciding with the 260th Anniversary of the Vacheron Constantine introduced the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication – a slick, limited edition platinum watch, powered by an in-house movement just 5.2 mm thick, making it the thinnest mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph on the market today.
Limited to just 10 individually-numbered pieces, the Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph is housed in a solid platinum cushion-shaped case that distills the design language of the late 1920s model on which it was based. The modern interpretation has cleaner lines that flow more fluidly to the sides of the lugs, with an emphasis on reflecting light in an elegant way.

The New Richard Mille 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur

The new RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur epitomizes a vibrant expression of watchmaking the brand chose  the magnolia flower as its existence marks millions of years on the earth. At the lower left of the dial on the RM 19-02 we see the magnolia surrounding a flying tourbillon escapement with five delicate, hand created and colored petals. Working either in passing, or on demand using the pusher at 9 o’clock, the magnolia opens and closes with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet.Behind this unique grade 5 titanium tourbillon caliber, a complex mechanism comprising 5 levers surrounds the underside of the petals, and yet another system combined with a long pinion is used to raise the flying tourbillon and stamen upwards within the flower’s circumference – all using energy supplied by a separate, second winding barrel. As an added attention to the tiniest details, it is even possible to adjust the opening and closing cycle.

Montblanc Chooses Monaco Royal to Promote Bohème Collection

Charlotte Casiraghi  the second child of Caroline, Princess of Hanover, and Stefano Casiraghi, an Italian industrialist was tapped as the new worldwide face of Montblanc, the company revealed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. The Monaco royal will appear in new advertising for the Swiss brand’s Bohème collection — including watches, jewelry and writing instruments — starting in September.

 

 

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