Dior’s timeless creations
Companies are best described by their mottoes. But few stay loyal to them. Luxury watches and jewellery maker Dior is not among those few. Universally-acknowledged designs and creativity are hallmark of its collection. Dior has been forcefully loyal to Monsieur Dior’s motto that “genuine luxury requires genuine materials and the craftsman’s sincerity.” Laurence Nicolas, President of Dior Watches and Jewellery, is strengthening this bond further since taking over the unit’s in 2008. Below are excerpts from the interview with Nicolas.
How significant is Dior Watches and Jewellery segment in the group’s multi-product portfolio of perfumes, cosmetics and other exquisite fashion accessories?
I would say a significant and growing part.
Apart from heading the Fine Jewellery, you took over Dior Watches also in February 2008. How do you synchronize the two lines in terms of creativity, position and retail network?
Our collections are created by designers in our Parisian studios for Timepieces and under Victoire de Castellane’s artistic direction for Fine Jewellery. For both categories, our inspiration comes from the roots of the Haute Couture House and its first designer. Both categories are distributed in Dior Boutiques, either stand alone, such as Vendome, or amidst the brand universes as in Dubai Mall.
Ceramic is an essential part of your watches. When and how did I come in to use for watches? Do you feel it’s high time to migrate into another fusion of material?
Monsieur Dior used to say: “Genuine luxury requires genuine materials and the craftsman’s sincerity.” Ceramic was the only material that made the production of an intensely black and homogenous material possible without any apparent steel structure between the links. In the end, the important thing was to be able to create that structure. We may well compare this work to the one carried out on the Lady Dior bag, whose essential feature of the Lady Dior is the lambskin, structured by the hand of man, in order to create the Cannage pattern.
You recently revealed Dior VIII that pays a strong tribute to the Dior Couture. What other influences have defined Dior VIII design concept? How much of the Dior VIII is La-Chaux-de-Fonds manufacturer?
Eight was Christian Dior’s lucky number. A superstitious man, he opened his house on 8th of October 1946, Avenue Montaigne, in the VIIIth arrondissement of Paris and called his first collection “En Huit” (In Eight). Since then, the 8 also evokes 8 Place Vendome, showcase of the Jewellery and Timepiece collections but also the 8 sides of the pyramid and the 8 sides of the Cannage pattern.
It evokes, via the very structure of its bracelet, one of the fundamental aspects of the House of Dior, that is to say the architectural work on a garment so dear to Monsieur Dior. Indeed, he used to say: "I dreamt of being an architect; as a couturier, I have to respect the principles of architecture.”
Like the Lady Dior handbag, with its graphic design, construction and Cannage calfskin, this timepiece’s Dior personality can also be found in:
* The brilliance and sensuality of the material which gives the wristwatch its femininity.
* The demanding requirements and know-how of a House where the inside must be as beautiful as the outside, with visible oscillating weight, sometimes lacquered in a bright colour: “Elegance is an ensemble, where the invisible is as important as the visible” (Christian Dior).
All our timepieces and thus Dior VIII are entirely Swiss made and Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior in La Chaux-de-Fonds are finding the best partners to match the best watchmaking craftsmanship and give birth to our creative ideas. It’s the same thing as when Haute Couture, that is made in Dior’s ateliers in Paris, is working with the best feather makers or the best embroiders.
Over the past six decades, how has the House of Dior made watches and jewellery relevant to their times?
By an amazing creativity mixed with a really strict craftsmanship: a Parisian one for Fine Jewellery and a Swiss one for Timepieces. Our challenge is that creativity makes craftsmanship evolve. If I can give you two examples: for the last High Jewellery collection that will be presented in July in Paris, the techniques that have been used have never been done in any other Fine Jewellery brand. It was already the case for Belladone Island collection in 2007 where the most expert Parisian workshops we worked with, had to create new tools and invent new techniques to answer our creative purpose.
For Timepieces, it is the same approach where technique must be the way to give birth to creative concepts. On Dior VIII, it is especially the case in the Grand Bal versions (coming in November) because they are equipped with the “Dior Inversé” caliber (“Dior inverted” caliber). This is a functional oscillating weight in gold with a lace effect, embroidered with diamonds pleated with mother-of-pearl. This calibre is a technical feat because the oscillating weight is in openwork and, as the design of each model is different, requires a total recalculation of the inertia of each weight for each model.
Do you intend to use a prominent figure as brand ambassador for watches and jewellery division? Have you ever thought of appointing an Arab celebrity to represent your brand?
The Timepiece of our Couture House had to be represented by a woman. Charlize Theron being the image of the perfume “J’adore”, she was the natural choice for us. For Fine Jewellery, our ambassadress is our creator Victoire de Castellane. With regard o appointing an Arab celebrity, yes we do it regularly for key events in the region. For example, we used to work a lot with Yousra.
What is Dior’s strategy to promote jewellery and watches in the region? Do you plan to set up more exclusive boutiques in here?
Dior Fine Jewellery and Timepieces is following the strategy of the brand in term of Dior boutique openings.
Could you please profile Dior watches and jewellery buyers in the Middle East?
Middle Eastern customers are very expert in stones and horology, and know very well what they like. They are looking for timeless creations, with the best craftsmanship. We also often create made-to-measure pieces for special events or customers of the region.