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There is an entire sub-section of the watch industry that is frequently overlooked by the general public, but for those in the know about watches – this sect offers some of the most exciting and ambitious timepieces on the market. The independent watchmaking community consists of small brands typically run by just a few great thinkers and doers at the helm. These ultra-passionate watchmakers think outside the proverbial box and pursue their dreams – albeit mostly in limited numbers – to unveil artistically, aesthetically and technically advanced watches.
Because the independent watchmakers are usually a lot more adaptable and acceptable to unusual technology and design concepts, and because they typically create small lots of watches, the timepieces are generally more expensive than other brands -- and more collectible. Often these are true investment pieces genuinely meant to be worn as art on the wrist.
“Watchmaking is the proof of human genius,” says Maximilian Busser, founder of MB&F Horological Lab. “The first tower clocks were transformed from stone and metal in the 1200s into timekeeping instruments. The watch is the oldest man-made contraption still in production today.”
MB&F (an acronym for Max Busser and Friends) is a group of advanced watchmakers, designers and engineers who work together to create some of the most futuristic looking timepieces based on traditional watch making skills.
“There is no practical reason anymore to buy a watch,” concedes Busser. “If you want to know the time, look elsewhere, a watch is for art and beauty. We make watches with 564 parts in one movement and all it does is give the time and date correctly, but the movement is a work of art.”
Indeed, independent watchmaking brands base their masterpieces of art for the wrist on their passions, and bring them to fruition in stellar style. In addition to MB&F, among those who were pioneers in this field and are now leaders of the pack: Christophe Claret, FP Journe, Greubel Forsey, Hautlence, HYT, Richard Mille and Peter Speake Marin, among others. Thanks to the visionary thinking of these watchmakers, and to progress in technology, this new breed of independents is alive and thriving.
So what types of timepieces are we seeing from these brands? Everything from watches with tiny alien sculptures on the dial that act as the power reserve indicator to watches that utilize fluid to indicate time, and more. Not only are these brilliant minds turning to high-tech materials, but also they are unveiling unconventional multi-dimensional watches that are stopping people in their tracks.
MB&F, for instance, this year did a superb job of blending classical watchmaking concepts with futuristic implementation and multidimensional appeal. The brand’s newest Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang watch with the world’s first vertical power reserve indicator – in the form of a sculpted alien on the dial. Indeed, the tiny aluminum alien sits on the dial with his head fully raised while the watch is fully wound and lowers his head as the 45-hour power reserve dwindles to the end. Winding the watch to power the mechanics is what breathes life into the 1/8” tall alien so he raises his head and sits straight up.
Bringing the concept of demonstrating how a mechanical watch runs out of power and then winds up again is something Busser struggled with for years – trying to find exactly the right vehicle to bring it to fruition. He found that when conduit when he x met Chinese artist Xia Hang – creator of sculptures that he calls comma men but that really look like aliens. A full year in the research and development stages, the Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang’s vertical power reserve indicator is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings – thereby offering a longer-lasting mechanism. Naturally MB&F had to develop the articulation of the sculpture for this process, which also took some time and was made possible by a concealed hinge. The tiny micro-mechanical sculpture is created in aluminum to minimize energy requirements. This new piece joins the brand’s very distinctive repertoire of Machines that run the gamut from spaceship-esq to frog like. “Sure we could have done this sort of design 20 years ago, but was the world ready for it? I don’t think so,” says Busser.
What, then, makes the world ready for it now? In part, this new frontier in watchmaking – made possible in part thanks to advancements in technology, micro-technology and materials – is like a breadth of fresh air that complements traditional timepieces. Additionally, they are alluring because of the materials used in a majority of them. In fact, these watches are often made using high-tech materials that come to the watchmaking world from other arenas such as aviation, automotive or medical fields: titanium, aluminum, carbon fiber and even proprietary inventive alloys.
HYT is revolutionary in that this brand uses liquid to indicate time. Founder of the brand, Vincent Perriard, spent years developing the concept before unveiling his first watch just about three years ago. Now, the brand continues to unveil new models made in different materials and with a variety of colors of liquid that complement the brand’s original yellow. . The new H1 Red 2, fueled by more than a year of R&D, is now offered in titanium and micro-blasted 5N pink gold with retrograde liquid hours in red, and the HYT H2 titanium and white gold blue watch features bold blue liquid.
/Focus on Women/
Richard Mille, owner of the brand that bears his name and that was one of the first to venture into the world of independent branding with forward-thinking three-dimensional type wristwatches just about 12 years ago, says “It is our obligation to make watches emotionally exciting. They should be artistic, technical expressions of creativity and usefulness. ”
This year Mille focused firmly on creating his masterpieces for women, and unveiled, among other models, the RM 19 Tourbillon Natalie Portman, designed in tandem with Portman and featuring a spider motif in diamonds incorporated into the movement. The brand also releases the e avant-garde RM07-01, housing a skeletonized automatic movement with titanium bridges made specifically for this watch, and crafted in the very advanced ATZ ceramic.
Similarly, Claret – renowned for his acoustical abilities with repeater and chiming watches – adds his first women’s timepiece to the lineup with the Margot. Reminiscent of his game watches for men that actually enable the wearer to play casino games on them, the Margot features a daisy on the dial whose petals can actually be mechanically plucked in the game of “He loves me, he loves me not.”
With the press of a pusher at 2:00, the watch comes to life: Each time the wearer presses the pusher, a single petal or a pair of petals randomly falls off the flower – disappearing beneath the dial. Finally, the answer to the question appears in French calligraphy at 4:00. Making the watch ever more intriguing is the fact that with each press, a melodic chime resonates in typical Claret style. The dial of the limited edition watch is beautifully romantic with a natural mother of pearl in pale blue with a white-petaled daisy.
Also focusing on women, but in a different vein, F.P. Journe, unveils his first women’s watch line. Making it even more intriguing is the fact that Journe opted to create this first-ever quartz powered watch. Called Elegante, the line has a very special feature: when it lays flat for more than 30 minutes, it stops displaying the time, but when you pick it up again, the motion wakes it up and it automatically moves to the proper time in the quickest way possible, forward or backward. The watch was eight years in the Research and development stages and houses two different movements, one for the second and one for the hours and minutes to minimize the consumption of battery life.
/ Classic Thinking/
There are also independent brands that offer a classic look on time that is ultra desirable. Such is the case with Peter Speake-Marin, whose passion for traditional watchmaking blossoms in his work. As he branches out and grows the brand to appeal to more collectors and lovers, he implements a strong collection under the Spirit Wing series. New this year is the Spirit Wing Commander Big Date, a chronograph and even a tourbillon. These watches are not only highly legible, but also extremely complex to create. The Spirit Wing Commander big date, for instance features a multi-layered three-dimensional dial that required special construction. To create it, a 3D mould was produced in order to generate a negative mould, in which the lacquer and Super-Luminova were applied by hand to achieve the right colors. When the materials set, the one-piece dial is removed from the mould and bonded to the dial plate. The movement of the watch is the Caliber 1024SPM with automatic wind and 48 hours of power reserve. Engraved on the caseback – in typical Speake-Marin style – are the words “Fight, Love & Persevere.”
Hautlence, a brand with an avant-garde appeal to its truly high end pieces made with patented concepts and visionary mechanics, has unveiled a collection designed to be more affordable, as well. The new Destination watch is, as everything is from Hautlence, superbly crafted and
Technologically advanced, but brings the entry price of approximately $60,000 for a Hautlence down to just over $20,000. The watch features a dual time zone and day/night indicator and uses a Soprod movement instead of an in-house Hautlence movement to keep the price down. The watch, inspired by the architecture of the Atelier-made pieces, is offered in multiple materials, including steel with black DLC.
The list goes on, but suffice it to say that the developments and strides made by these independent brands are impressive. In fact, some are already reaching the status of a decade of success. Mille has perhaps the longest time in business, and brands such as Hautlence and Greubel Forsey are celebrating 10 years this year -- – demonstrating their staying power , growing, and ensuring their future. In fact, all say they are always aware of possible future needs, as well, and whenever they make a watch, they stock spare parts, movement components, and more to be used in the future for after-sales service and potential repairs.
“We are not here for the short term,” says Guillame Tetu, founder of Hautlence. “We want to grow and be here for centuries to come.”
Other Positives of buying from brands like these? The timepieces make an excellent investment thanks to their exclusivity and hand craftsmanship. Since production numbers play a role in how a watch is priced and how it holds its value, these are guaranteed to not only hold their value but increase as time goes on. Additionally, there is a great personal touch that goes into the purchase of one of these timepieces. Because the brands are small, and the creators are involved with their hearts and souls, often a purchaser not only meets the founder or watchmaker, but also builds a relationship. This personal attention, along with individualistic vision, makes these brands even more alluring.